![]() | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Exmoor Trim Retrim Question |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
My driver's seat was in a pretty terrible state (as it was when I bought it) so I've bought a retrim kit from Exmoor.
Did the seat base yesterday and have now got to the back. The instructions are all for the old style of seat rather than the Puma, and things have changed a bit. My issue is with the gluing. Most of the parts the instructions say to glue on the TD5 seat are similar to the Puma one, so it would be easy enough to do that I think. However, the old foam wasn't glued to the frame in any way so I'm wondering if I should? Possibly the reason the old foam was in such a bad way is that it should have been glued but wasn't? Has anyone done it before? Glue or not glue? Just so I've written it down in case anyone else has issues, to get the head rest sockets out of the seat back, remove the head rest then twist the socket 90° and they just lift out. The instructions for the TD5 seats to just hit it are wrong. This is the state the old foam was in, quite impressively broken for 14k miles really! ![]() Click image to enlarge |
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dorsetsmith Member Since: 30 Oct 2011 Location: South West Posts: 4554 ![]() |
i would speak exmoor trim if you are buying kit from them alway help you
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've already bought it
![]() The videos on their website, along with the instructions supplied, are all for the TD5 seats. The video instructions clearly say glue. The written instructions don't mention anything about it and the original one wasn't glued at all. Hence my confusion! |
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Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000 ![]() ![]() |
Can I ask what you think of the kit please ?
I'm considering their leather retrim kit with heater elements as an alternative to buying some puma take our seats ... It's a bit daunting though and I don't know what kind of finish I would get. |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
well so far it's been fine. Actually getting it to me was a challenge (see my grumble thread) but it seems basically identical to the original.
The seat base was fine to do, though a bit fiddly. It's harder than the video but easily DIY-able. I did enlist the help of my dad for one part though it would probably be possible without. Seeing as I'm visiting them and he was available I made my life easier! Moving to the back, the original is held on with little wire ties that were too difficult to remove so I just cut them off, the replacement uses cable ties instead. My biggest problem is with the instructions. They're all for the old style of seat, and the written instructions leave massive bits out. For instance, the seat back instructions don't mention fitting the new foam at all, they start with you putting the new cover back on which is only half the job. I'll take a picture of the finished product when I'm done, but bearing in mind I'm not the neatest of chaps the base has turned out well. |
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Anderzander Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Lancashire Posts: 1000 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks ! I'll look forward to the pictures.
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SimonDavies Member Since: 15 Mar 2012 Location: Swansea Posts: 244 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have done my drivers seat. From what I remember the foam was not glued to the frame and I did not glue it when refitting.
Everything is fine with the seat after 4 months of use. I even used cable ties instead of the metal rings when refitting the cover. |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've just spoken to Exmoor on the phone and apparently you definitely do glue the foam to the frame, and definitely don't (as the lady first said) glue the cover to the foam.
So there we go, it's written down for the next person to have problems! |
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Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
All done now, I'll put up some pictures tomorrow.
For future reference, you need some side cutters (small ones would be good), don't leave any cable ties out, and glue the foam sticking as far forwards as possible, rather than actually flush to the frame as I did. On the last point, I'm not 100% sure about that but think it would have worked better. Pictures to explain later. |
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Larissa Member Since: 19 Nov 2017 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() |
I know this is an old thread but thank you so much for posting how to remove the headrest holders! It’s been driving me nuts.
To glue or not to glue though? None of the videos I can find show gluing the foam to the puma seat frame. The older one yes, but not this one. Still only the old Exmoor Trim videos out there. Any idea how to recover the headrest? Do you just glue the new cover onto the foam? Any help would be very much appreciated. It’s the two stalk headrest. |
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meeerrrk Member Since: 12 Feb 2017 Location: Surrey Posts: 548 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
They can be a bit fiddly, I upgraded mine to the premium style seats. But they are amazing quality and the finish (especially for a diy) is excellent which is a testament to how good they really are. My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
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Larissa Member Since: 19 Nov 2017 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks. I did the seat bases no problem (well sore fingers but straight forward). They look great. The backs look easier to do. We'll see!
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Snorkers Member Since: 10 Oct 2015 Location: Grampian Posts: 34 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Hi,
I recently 're upholstered the seat back on my drivers seat (Puma hard top). I used an Exmoor foam with their denim twill cover. The old foam was collapsed when I bought the truck, to the extent that the steel supports had eventually worn holes in the old cover. I had been looking for decent take outs however they are few and far between in my neck of the woods. I eventually decided to go for it, and it was so easy, I'm kicking myself that I waited so long! I did use a little spray adhesive on the foam in the areas suggested on the td5 video even though I'm not sure there was any on the old foam. I also used zip ties instead of upholstery rings. I can confirm that the Exmoor foam appears to have a reinforcement in the area where the old foam had burst. That's the same area damaged in the photos above, so I'm hopeful it would outlive a stock foam The cover is also well made, and looks the part. If their other covers are of a similar quality,I'd have no hesitation in recommending them. If your stock seating resembles a burst couch, don't punish yourself sitting against the steel frame as I did for years. Just 're trim those seats ![]() I'm glad now that I didn't waste the cash on new seats as the old frames were fine. I took about two hours to remove the seat from the cab, trim it and bung it back in Hope this gives others the confidence to go for it. As above the, headrest sockets rotate through 90 degrees and pull out. There on a bayonet style fitting. Early Christmas present for your motor? Regards. Snorkers. |
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Larissa Member Since: 19 Nov 2017 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 4 ![]() ![]() |
I got some fairly wrecked puma seats but the frames are in lovely condition. I’ve recovered the bases and stripped the backs now. Discovered after much puzzling that they’ve sent me the wrong headrest covers - they really weren’t going to fit! They’re being replaced though. The seat bases look great and they are a huge improvement on the old collapsed foam in my original seats. I’ve gone for Black span/mondus. It does look really smart. I love the coveres but I’m less than impressed with the lack of instructions and that’s the second problem with the order! I’m sure we’ll get there in the end! I will be using the supplied cable ties. Had hells job getting the hog rings off and I have no wish to ever see them again!
Thanks for the tip about removing the plastic headrest holders. I’ve been using Mr Sheen where they suggest using silicone spray in the video. Works a treat. I’ll post pics when they’re done. |
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