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ie buzzweld, dinitrol etc and the vast array of different products they do. SO whats the feeling on here for doing this job and what did you go with and why?
| foxyred Member Since: 16 Jul 2016 Location: Nottingham Posts: 227   
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Dinatrol kit on drive at home
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30th Oct 2017 7:59pm |
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| nitram17 Member Since: 08 Jun 2014 Location: newcastle Posts: 2261 |
I think dinotrol is a clear winner on here..although i went with bilt hamber stuff ..just for ease of use and slightly less messy!I also coated nuts and all running gear with acf grease and my crossmember is swiming in acf spray...good luck
https://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-prote...reatments/ I think the key is to top up the treatment (whatever you choose)and preperation....i like fertan to get rid of the rust! Last edited by nitram17 on 30th Oct 2017 8:07pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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30th Oct 2017 8:04pm |
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| Kit Member Since: 12 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 1110  
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Waxoyl because my dad doesn't trust new things
Waxoyl is easy to use, so if I was going to DIY it, i'd use it again but if I were to pay someone else I would get Dinitrol 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW 1956 Series 1 Hard-top 1958 Series 1 Soft-top |
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30th Oct 2017 8:05pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917 
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I went with Bilt hamber after lots of research and actual proof of quality with scientific backing versing a lot of anecdotal hearsay.
Shameless self promotion >>> My rustproofing guide.  |
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30th Oct 2017 8:19pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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Unless its cold.
I used to swear by the stuff, but after trying Dinitrol i've never looked back. It doesn't need standing in a bucket of hot water to make it fluid enough to spray, it doesn't smell as bad, it doesn't start dripping out on the first warm day of the year, it doesn't attract dirt, it doesn't wash off so easily and it skins over so you dont get it all over you when you brush against it. Dinitrol is easy if you can borrow a compressor, but you can do it with their aerosols too. |
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30th Oct 2017 8:23pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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Also want to be able was underneath chassis without the risk of it coming off , whichever product I coose
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30th Oct 2017 8:45pm |
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| UtilityTruck Member Since: 09 Jan 2014 Location: Oxford Posts: 463
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There are lots of opinions on what's best, I also went with built hamber- I have no proof it's the best, however I don't like the finish offered from waxoil or dinitrinol so the clear bh stuff was a go to option.
Granted I first protected my truck from new, but after 50k miles and 3 years I'd say the chassis is still tip top.  Click image to enlarge The pic above was at the end of this summer when I thoroughly cleaned it off and reapplied. I touched up the rear axle and front outriggers(where they take stone impacts from the front wheels) with some chassis black and everywhere else was simply cleaned. 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2 |
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30th Oct 2017 8:53pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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I like Bilt hamber stuff so interested in that and want a nice black or brown finish if possible.. which products are required from their range?
I'm also thinking of using fertan rust convertor inside the chassis first and notice they do a clear cavity wax which makes more sense. Then use something else on the underside externally |
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30th Oct 2017 9:34pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917
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Simply the Dynax S50 is for cavities and box sections, The UB is for general underbody use and is brown coloured, the UC is the same underbody but clear.
IMHO if you have an immaculate underside then the clear will work lovely and look great too and help in keeping tabs on any future issues. The brown covers more as like I did with a chassis that was just about to show signs of rust and visable paint issues, so the clear just wouldn't cut it. Any future issues will have to develop a little more before they are spotted that is the compromise. But for me and the interests of my channel I will conduct inspections and report my findings. Click image to enlarge before Click image to enlarge after |
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30th Oct 2017 10:23pm |
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| Scotm Member Since: 28 Feb 2014 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 666  
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Devon - Is that "after" picture using the UC or the UB?
I have used UC on mine since I got it at a year old. With the harsh Winters and heavily salted roads I need to top it up every year. I wonder if the UB will last longer? |
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30th Oct 2017 10:32pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917
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That is UB on all the chassis external and UC on the inner rear arches and under floor pans. Essentially if it is body coloured then it had UC on it, if it was painted black then it went UB.
In my research on here someone directly asked BH and they quoted that UB had better anti abrasive qualities. I would suggest an e-mail to BH to ratify this as they are very helpful. HTH |
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30th Oct 2017 10:44pm |
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| Kit Member Since: 12 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 1110
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True! To be fair I purposefully did mine during the hot spell we had 1993 200 Tdi 90 CSW 1956 Series 1 Hard-top 1958 Series 1 Soft-top |
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30th Oct 2017 11:05pm |
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| Djcla Member Since: 29 Jul 2017 Location: Gloucestershire Posts: 469
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@Devon Rover , how much of each product did you use / buy to do the ? Defender. Did you use the POR 15 top coat after wax?
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31st Oct 2017 1:14pm |
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| UtilityTruck Member Since: 09 Jan 2014 Location: Oxford Posts: 463
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I can't speak for DR but I used 2x cans of UC and 2x of the S50 in the chassis legs. To do a really thorough job, an additional can of each would be handy.
Any paint, including POR should go under the protective coating. 2014 Keswick Utility 2.2 |
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31st Oct 2017 1:34pm |
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