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AndyT66 Member Since: 19 Sep 2016 Location: Bedford Posts: 149 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
How about ?
http://www.liberon.co.uk/product/finishing-oil/ |
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What puddle? Member Since: 25 Oct 2013 Location: Reading Posts: 952 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks. Yes, funnily enough I've just watched their video on YouTube! I would need to test it, I think, to see if it darkens the wood. I thought of beeswax, but according to another YouTube video, that darkens it. Another video said coconut oil, but I think that would go rancid after time - no good on a dining table! Evidently has to be an oil, but something non-toxic but not organic either. Will get a small bottle of Liberon (if I can) and see. Now left.
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AndyT66 Member Since: 19 Sep 2016 Location: Bedford Posts: 149 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I've used it successfully on mahogany chairs, it did enhance the colours though without changing them, very pleased with the result. Good luck, chassis black is far easier !
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proloForêt Member Since: 16 Mar 2017 Location: Montereau Posts: 248 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
You do not mention what is the wood? It is necessary to know this to decide for sure the advice. And also is this for internal or external? All oil basing finish will darken wood to a degree as there is penitration. Water based lacquer will keep something such as oak light but not be so much resistant for this use and require more work than an oil/wax blend. Epoxy finishes are becomed popular in recent years very much if you watch to YouTube. It would be difficult for you to purchase a finish that is not inert once it has been deployed/cured for selling within the EU. Nothing I work with if used correctly could not be used of a table for because of this worry and I use everything from retail brands to industrial non-commercial mixes.
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ken Member Since: 18 Aug 2009 Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !! Posts: 4328 ![]() ![]() |
Glass top ?
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What puddle? Member Since: 25 Oct 2013 Location: Reading Posts: 952 ![]() ![]() |
proloForêt Many thanks for sharing your knowledge. The wood is white softwood - either pine or spruce. Look forward to your advice. In the past, I've used boiled linseed oil on oak, but again it darkened it a fair bit. I want to avoid that if I possibly can, so was ideally looking for a clear oil.
Edit: For indoor use. Ken. Yes, I asked if they would prefer a white glass top to it, but they want the rough wood finish. Glass adds weight and it has to be toughened in case a plate is dropped on it. It still breaks, but safely. Now left. Last edited by What puddle? on 31st Oct 2017 9:15am. Edited 1 time in total |
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Kit Member Since: 12 Feb 2016 Location: Shropshire Posts: 1110 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Raptor it.
![]() 1956 Series 1 Hard-top 1958 Series 1 Soft-top |
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Nidge Member Since: 27 Jan 2008 Location: Kildare Ireland Posts: 821 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Finish it with Rubio Monocoat Clear or Pure...single coat application.
Expensive but the best oil type finish on the market by far. http://www.monocoat.us/2C-Oil/ N. |
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Balvaig Member Since: 19 Feb 2016 Location: Fife Posts: 736 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I have used Osmo top oil on a table. Brilliant stuff and easy to apply. Also recommended for kitchen worktops so should be ideal for your purpose.
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Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 ![]() |
In my opinion is that if you are using a highly resinous wood like pine or spruce it will darken over time due to UV anyway. A good Top oil will make it somewhat resistant to staining and water damage it will not prevent it totally. I've tried something like this myself and found that the maintenance of the tables surface to be quite time consuming as it would be scrubbed with household bleach every couple of months, maybe with a bit of added sawdust; this will however raise the grain and it will need to be sanded back unless you like that effect.
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proloForêt Member Since: 16 Mar 2017 Location: Montereau Posts: 248 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
+1 Good product this I know. |
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proloForêt Member Since: 16 Mar 2017 Location: Montereau Posts: 248 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
If the colour is really to be the most important for the customer I think on a light pine like this that a good water based poly would be your best option. I would not say this if it was for exterior, for that an oil must be the option. Super sand the grain after the first one or two coats because the grain will lift but a good sanding to a high grit also performs as part of the sealing process. It will still look rough and rustic but will be smooth to touch. Over the time with the UV light there will be a colour change slight but even the raw wood will do this. For best and future without effort take a good oil like Osmo or Mono. You can get tinted versions but do not take these to a pine wood - it does not take stain evenly. Take a small piece of the wood and apply a few oil coats first and show to the customer the end vision but it too will change over time no matter - so slowly that it is not usual to notice. Personally I always prefer to use an oil over water base and for a table like a rustic style also do a final with a wax blend after the pure oiling. Hope it is useful information to you, enjoy the project! ![]() |
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What puddle? Member Since: 25 Oct 2013 Location: Reading Posts: 952 ![]() ![]() |
Thanks everyone, I've ordered a bit more timber than I need, so I can test out both the Osmo and the Monocoat. I've also found a water-based polyurethane. I can't fit the job in for another month, but I'm keen to try it before then, so I'll report back on what worked best. Thanks again. Now left.
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