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--defender--



Member Since: 22 Apr 2010
Location: South Coast
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
Engine bay 12V Ignition hook up
Hi,

I'm about to install some LED replacement Halo head lamp assemblies and I need to find a low ampage switched ignition supply to power the Halo LED rings, ideally in the engine by area. All I can think of is using a piggy-backed blade fuse adaptor in the main fuse panel under the drivers footwell and running a new wire through the bulk-head to the front of he engine bay.

Any guidance would be useful please.

Zera If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Post #628221 1st Jun 2017 3:13pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
Alternator? Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #628223 1st Jun 2017 3:18pm
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--defender--



Member Since: 22 Apr 2010
Location: South Coast
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
Hi,

Is that switched by the ignition?

Zera If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Post #628227 1st Jun 2017 3:21pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
Well, there is only power on the alternator terminal if the engine is is running (and your alternator isn't broken Wink ) ... Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #628229 1st Jun 2017 3:31pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
You can use the OE position lights wire. Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #628231 1st Jun 2017 3:32pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
VeeTee wrote:
Well, there is only power on the alternator terminal if the engine is is running (and your alternator isn't broken Wink ) ...


Er, not so, I think! The alternator terminal is connected to the battery +ve, and the battery is full of volts all the time.
Post #628234 1st Jun 2017 3:40pm
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VeeTee



Member Since: 06 Mar 2011
Location: Somewhere
Posts: 1512

Netherlands 
Oh stupid me Banging Head yes, you are right.... Every day's a school day. Whistle Cheers, Vincent
1959 Polynorm 1/4 Ton Trailer, Olive Drab Green (sold)
1970 M416 Military Trailer (Camping Trailer Conversion), Epsom Green (sold)
1975 Series III 88 V6, Light Green (sadly sold)
1996 Defender 110 CSW 300 Tdi, Epsom Green (sold)
2000 Freelander 1 TD4 3-drs, Silver (sold)
2006 Freelander 1 TD4 5-drs Facelift Automatic, Tonga Green (sold)

MySite
Post #628235 1st Jun 2017 3:48pm
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--defender--



Member Since: 22 Apr 2010
Location: South Coast
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
MK wrote:
You can use the OE position lights wire.


Do you have anymore details please?

Zera If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Post #628236 1st Jun 2017 3:59pm
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MK



Member Since: 28 Aug 2008
Location: Santiago
Posts: 2415

Chile 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Chawton White
Excuse my English. In my case the led headlights came with a black (I believe) wire that I just hooked to the (+) wire of the original position lights as you need quite low Amps. Cannot remember the (-) connection. Is that what you are asking? Puma 110" SW

.............................................................
Earth first. Other planets later
Post #628239 1st Jun 2017 4:08pm
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--defender--



Member Since: 22 Apr 2010
Location: South Coast
Posts: 90

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Zermatt Silver
Quote:
Excuse my English. In my case the led headlights came with a black (I believe) wire that I just hooked to the (+) wire of the original position lights as you need quite low Amps. Cannot remember the (-) connection. Is that what you are asking?


These are Halo LED lamps and require a 12V ignition feed so the Halo is on when the car is running and also requires a 12v feed from the headlamp relay to disable the Halo running lights when the head lamps are on.

Zera If it ain't broke don't fix it!
Post #628365 2nd Jun 2017 7:27am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
Unless you use a voltage sensing relay or similar device I think you'll have to wire back into the cabin. The feed for the cigarette lighter socket is a popular source for a switched live, although I think it is actually live with the key in the ACC position rather than the IGN position.

Failing that, the CJB is your best source, in which case how you get the feed depends on how much effort you want to put in and how much of the vehicle you want to take apart.

The neatest and most "factory" approach is to pop the CJB out and fit a new contact into a suitable position (somewhere where there is an ignition-activated feed on the input side of an unused fuse position), but this is quite involved since it involves removing the dash. Paul Mc on this forum can supply the inserts for the CJB fuseblock.

An easier alternative is the plug-in piggy-back connector, which can fit into an existing ignition-activated fuse position and provide a seperate fused feed in parallel to the original. This is by far the easiest approach, and there are several suitable fuses (eg the heated seat fuse).

A further possibility, if your Defender had dim-dip and you have disabled it (like all sensible folk do - dim-dip was a ridiculous and stupid idea!) by bypassing the relay, i.e., linking pin 2 to pin 8 on the relay socket, is to take a feed from the now-unused pin 1 position on the relay socket. This is an ignition-activated feed from CJB Fuse 15 (5A). If however your Defender was not built with dim-dip, you may not have this socket wired (I have never looked at a non-DD vehicle to see).
Post #628384 2nd Jun 2017 8:55am
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ROBBONTHEROCK



Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Firenze Red
I mounted my DRL controller on the left hand wing.

I routed the 12v trigger wire to the blower immediately adjacent.

there is a Orange / red wire from memory that is a ignition live wire.

I just tapped into that.

The DRL is pulling milliamps, and the blower wiring has plenty of headroom for the additional pull from the DRL controller.

All above is fused at source, so really very little risk.

Food for thought.

Cheers
Andy
Post #628431 2nd Jun 2017 11:31am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I think the blower feed is also ACC rather then IGN, but I don't suppose it matters at all for this purpose.

Wiper feed may be IGN.
Post #628434 2nd Jun 2017 11:35am
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discomog



Member Since: 09 May 2015
Location: Notts/Lincs Border
Posts: 2526

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black
Yes you're correct Blackwolf. I connected my DRL's to the orange feed to the blower and it is definitely ACC and not IGN live. Defender 90XS SW
Mini Countryman Cooper S
Morgan Plus 8
Post #628438 2nd Jun 2017 11:45am
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ROBBONTHEROCK



Member Since: 23 Jun 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 637

Scotland 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Firenze Red
Doh.....

Sorry, Smile

Cheers
Andy
Post #628440 2nd Jun 2017 11:52am
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