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raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

2001 Defender 110 Td5 Tomb Raider LE Bonatti Grey

What did I do wrong to mess up the fuel pump?

So, My Defender 110 TD5 with 120,000 kms on the clock now, took longer than usual to start after being parked over night and it bothered me alot.

So for no apparent reason I replaced the injector seals and washers successfully with genuine LR ones, This was around 2 years ago but the problem remained. I rarely use this car.

Then I decided to remove and clean the gauze filter between the head and FPR and while refitting I overtightened one of the two fuel nozzles and broke the thread part on a perfecctly good genuine FPR which I got aluminum welded to have a temporary fix since a new one was not available to me, which worked well on idle and a short test drive, I had it then parked for almost an year.
Now 6 days ago, I installed a new battery did the 5 throttle bleed as a precaution and it started first crank let it idle for 2 mins and I turned it off and removed and replaced the repaired fpr with a new brit part unit with a new gasket and O rings, then I replaced the One way valve in the fuel filter housing with an LR genuine part and I also installed the little black nozzle in the fuel nozzle in the filter housing on the chassis side facing the rear of the car, mine did not come with one originally. I bought this car new and I am the only one who works on it.

Then I did the 5 times throttle bleed and it started fairly easily and I let it idle for 20 minutes and did a 1 km test drive and all was well.

Yesterday i decided to go for a wash since it had been parked for close to an year. 10 Kms into the ride, it died all of a sudden, I stopped and checked the fpr and fuel filter housing and all looked good. Cranked again and it ran and died 200m further and then it was dead for sure. Couldn't hear the fuel pump, checked relays and fuses and all looked okay.

So, is my pump dead for sure? If it is, did it die a natural death or did I do something wrong to kill it?

Apart from the fuel pump, do I need anything else to do a perfect job? Like any seal or O rings that need to be replaced along the pump? Please share the part numbers if possible.

Many thanks for your valued input.

4th Oct 2017 8:46am

Vogler

Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Brussels
Posts: 309

I think it's worth considering what happens in the fuel tank when the car hasn't moved for a year. Wouldn't sludge be a prime suspect?

Hope you find the problem soon,

Joris De Roeck

4th Oct 2017 9:21am

bankz5152

Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2178

Problem is diesel only lasts around 6 months maybe a year in ideal conditions. I would expect poor diesel to be the culprit.

If you remove the fuel filter you'll be able to check the quality of the diesel.

4th Oct 2017 9:50am

raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

I did hear a loud shrill noise from under me when it died (LHD) so I just checked and found out that the positive battery terminal had been in contact with the wall, red arrows point to the point of contact, since the battery was not secured. I also checked that the wall is aluminium and a poor conductor. Seems like it became poor now because the noise was kinda loud and I thought some stone hit the underside.

The picture is after I have re positioned the terminal on the battery.

Does that mean the ecu is shot? I don't hear the fuel pump and no glow plugs indication on the cluster. I disconnected the ECU and I still have the same number of lights going off on the cluster as with the ecu connected. Is there a way to check the ecu? I checked all the fuses in both fuse boxes and they are fine.

4th Oct 2017 10:55am

MadTom

Member Since: 10 Sep 2013
Location: Olomouc
Posts: 625

Check fuses and relays - no noise from fuel pump means no power for pump or dead pump. Checking the relays and fuses is simple, checking power on connector for pump is still simple, if you have hole above the tank. Without this, it is tank down, and it is quite a bit of work. It can be faster to make the hole above tank, for servicing the fuel pump.
Check grounding for the fuel pump.
Fast and dirty test is open the fuel pump relay, a push it manually, to see (hear), if the pump start working. "Drobek" = The Small One - Discovery 2, "Blufínek" = The Blue Thing - Defender 130, and for me at least Ford Mondeo

4th Oct 2017 10:59am

raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

Pictures enclosed.

4th Oct 2017 11:02am

raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

Which one is the fuel pump relay?

4th Oct 2017 11:04am

raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...282%29.jpg

4th Oct 2017 11:12am

raider_td5

Member Since: 01 Aug 2017
Location: Islamabad
Posts: 9

https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...281%29.jpg

4th Oct 2017 11:13am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

Click image to enlarge

4th Oct 2017 11:14am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

raider_td5 wrote:
Which one is the fuel pump relay?

under driver seat

Click image to enlarge

4th Oct 2017 11:22am

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