Doc P wrote:

Got back to my Def this afternoon and it didn't respond to the remote. Replaced the key fob battery (got mugged for �5 by a local jeweller for it who was the only shop to sell 2032s nearby) and still no joy. Walked bloody miles too - all with a gammy achilles.

Noticed the LED on the dash wasn't flashing, so assumed it was a shafted battery or suchlike as the whole car was dead. I've never used the door key to gain entry before and the lock was crudded solid and I couldn't get the key all the way in. So I was stuck

Green Flag guy arrived. De-crudded door lock. Got in. Battery fine.

Fault found to be blown fuse under dash (F9). Changed fuse (20A). All good, but sluggish/inconsistent locking release on the rear offside door mechanism - maybe the cause?

Green Flag dude used his ammeter and found that activating the locking was drawing 8 Amps (which sounds like a lot - is it?). He said it may spike higher, but his tester maybe wasn't 'fast' enough to pick it up? Thought it may be chaffed or broken wiring or, if not, the solenoid?

If it isn't the wiring, do you recommend replacing the locking mechanism/solenoid? How expensive/easy/any tips?

Or do I just bite the bullet and take it to a sparky and bear the cost? (I don't want a fire)

Top tip - de-crud your door locks now and again so your key gets in. I could have sat in the boot I suppose, but would have looked a right tw@t parked outside the vets where it was