 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Best paint for rear cross member |
 
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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468   
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Try this
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52858....mber+paint The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results. Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years" Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis............................. |
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26th May 2017 8:41am |
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| Leeroy Member Since: 01 Aug 2015 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 261 
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Rallymental
Thanks for link I have just looked on the website and was thinking Satin out of the 3 choices what did you go for? Cheers Lee |
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26th May 2017 11:06am |
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| Rallymental Member Since: 17 Aug 2015 Location: The Garden of England Posts: 468
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Sorry Leeroy, I haven't actually done it myself, my defender being only 2. I've just liberally coated mine with acf50.
But all that having been said I think you're right, satin is a good choice. The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again but expecting different results. Solihull, 1948 - "If we paint the chassis, it will last for years" Solihull, 2015 - "If we paint the chassis............................. |
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26th May 2017 11:23am |
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| Leeroy Member Since: 01 Aug 2015 Location: East Yorkshire Posts: 261
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Rallymental no worries the product looks really good looking forward to sorting it out it the only thing that lets it down.
Cheers Lee |
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26th May 2017 3:02pm |
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| Riverboy Member Since: 16 May 2016 Location: French sector, Earth Posts: 1288 
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Is it really a good idea to paint the rear cross member? Does it actually prevent rust or just hide it? I just give mine a good spray and wipe over with ACF50 after each wash. Would it be better to have it professionally painted instead?
 Click image to enlarge |
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26th May 2017 3:41pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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If you clean the rust off first then paint it it's fine. Don't just paint over rust though.
I rubbed mine down and painted it with a few coats of Zinc-182 primer then Upol satin black top coat. Came out a treat, still looks perfect after a winter. |
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26th May 2017 3:46pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790 
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Riverboy
I wiped mine over with ACF50 after each wash too, however the paint is so thin that it more or less washes off allowing spots of surface rust to develop. I'm waiting for a warranty repair to put it right but according to the body shop manager JLR's solution is to scuff it back and blast a coat of satin black over it to make it look ok. I'm in the process of exploring the best coating for mine too  2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon
1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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26th May 2017 4:55pm |
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| Riverboy Member Since: 16 May 2016 Location: French sector, Earth Posts: 1288
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It just concerns me that once painted you may not spot corrosion until its too far gone. Our other 90 has a painted cross member and it worries my why it was done and what its hiding. Is it known why Land Rover left it as it is? It seems odd.
I ACF50 the hell out of mine, and had it Dinitroled by Zagato last year. I'm hoping the dryer hotter climate down here is a bit less conducive to rust. Last edited by Riverboy on 26th May 2017 5:07pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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26th May 2017 5:00pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790
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As long as it's prepared an treated properly before painting there should be no issues.
This is typical Land Rover penny pinching, the painting of the chassis is carried out by the subcontractors who manufacture them and as with all components it's all down to lowest cost per unit which is why they don't fit galvanised chassis or even coat the standard chassis with a more hardwearing paint. 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon 1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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26th May 2017 5:06pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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the problem with the cross member is the paint gets broken down by the UV, it fairs a lot better in more shaded areas like the chassis rails. It's crazy they didn't offer a galv chassis as at least a massively over priced factory option.
But yes if it's prepped and painted properly it wont corrode. Salt is what really eats away at them, so if you're in a warmer climate corrosion is much less of a worry. But painted steel will always last better than bare steel. |
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26th May 2017 5:39pm |
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| Riverboy Member Since: 16 May 2016 Location: French sector, Earth Posts: 1288
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Out of interest. What sort of money are we talking for a galvanized chassis fitted? I cant imagine they would do that here so its a return to UK job.
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26th May 2017 5:44pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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I think the chassis is a couple of thousand pounds just to buy. But any competent garage could fit it, it's just time consuming to fit. It's just a big Meccano kit.
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26th May 2017 5:47pm |
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| Riverboy Member Since: 16 May 2016 Location: French sector, Earth Posts: 1288
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Well maybe in the future if the need arises. Mine is a keeper and I'll do whatever it takes to keep it as mint as possible.
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26th May 2017 5:49pm |
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| sako243 Member Since: 08 Jul 2014 Location: Wales Posts: 1234  
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As was recommended in the other thread Buzzweld products appear to be the way to go.
I put a Hi-Lift jack through my cross member last summer and had a custom one built up a-la Black Sheep but better  . I simply gave it a coat of RCP and a coat of CIO. It's been smacked a couple of times off-road and the paint is untouched and never washed since going on 9 months ago.
Time will tell how it lasts but so far it's outlasted Hammerite by a factor of three... Ed 82 Hotspur Sandringham 6x6 95 Defender 110 300Tdi |
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26th May 2017 7:37pm |
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