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Staftly

Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 55

2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Orkney Grey

Sudden Battery Discharge

Hi all,

Firstly, let me explain I'm a Defender man through & through, I'm lucky to have a 110 xs ute & my pride and joy 1968 Station Wagon 2a. I can fix anything on my Series truck and most things on my Ute truck, most things that is apart from electronics.

Whilst this particular cry for help relates to my wife's RR Sport I though I'd try a post here as most Defender2 readers are generally more "hands-on" if you get my drift. If the word RR Sport offends then I apologise. If, on the other hand you think you can help please read on, I'd really appreciate any help. So, my wife's 09 TDV8 is suffering from chronic battery drain, here are the symptoms.

1) Following a short journey the car was left idling for approx 5 mins, then warning lights went haywire with spurious lights and messages (none of which were active at the time, e.g. fog light indicator, access heigh messages etc).

2) Engine switched off momentarily then failed to crank engine (seems like there was not enough power, wouldn't even attempt to engage starter).

3) Left a further 5 mins and complete battery drain, not even enough to light dash.

4) Jump leads later attached but would not hold a charge, enough juice to perform ignition checks but not crank starter. After jump leads removed, battery would fully discharge within seconds!

5) Noticed that jump leads were getting seriously hot when attached.

6) So, it looks like charge coming out of the battery faster than I can put a charge in. I have all but basic electrical skills, but to me this is a serious short of some kind. Guess I'm lucky this didn't result in a fire!.

7) Pulled glow plug relays (as thats the only thing I know would pull that kind of current) and tried attaching to a spare battery. The kind of sparks I got suggested it was still drawing a serious current. So, no more test with a battery attached for now.

Have since attached a multimeter and tested for continuity whilst pulling all relays & fuses in the engine compartment bay. I am seeing that I have an "open circuit" regardless of what real/fuse is pulled. I haven't yet continued this test with the fuses located under the passenger footwell, but I'm guessing these are likely to be lesser rated and should have "popped" given the rate of discharge.

So, like I say, my knowledge of auto electrics is very limited. Anyone got some suggestions where to look from here?

Any help appreciated before I resort to calling in an auto electrician. Unfortunately I don't know of any "good" auto electrician in my area, only bad ones!

Thanks fellas
Steve

14th May 2017 11:48am

Balvaig

Member Since: 19 Feb 2016
Location: Fife
Posts: 736

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 Landmark LE Corris Grey

As nobody has replied who might be better qualified - I would start with the battery itself. Sounds very much like an internal short. If it is original it has probably reached the end of its useful life.
This would be indicated if you have not identified any blown fuses, which would occur if you had a serious short elsewhere.

14th May 2017 1:07pm

jeffersj

Member Since: 23 Jan 2015
Location: Near Preston
Posts: 431

1996 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Bronze Green

As above sounds like a dead battery, can you try one from your other motors? Jeff
Ex 1968 Series 2A
Ex 90 TD5
Ex D3
Ex D4

14th May 2017 1:23pm

Fifth Horseman

Member Since: 08 Mar 2011
Location: Lanarkshire
Posts: 333

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

First thought would be a failed alternator, these were notorious on the D3/4 for killing the battery and giving symptoms similar to those you describe, the battery could also have an internal short circuit - If the alternator has died then it probably has ruined the battery as well.

Your posting in our sister forum rrsport.co.uk may get better (more specific) answers - as stated there, forum sponsor Advanced Factors is a good source for parts.

14th May 2017 4:37pm

roel

Member Since: 08 Aug 2009
Location: Lelystad
Posts: 2039

Maybe try the D3 or D4 sister site as they mostly are better then the RRS site.

First I would charge and test the battery. My D3 is also hard on Batteries. Mine just survive 3 years.

A RRS/D3 use a lot off electric power even when switched off. Combined with short drive and longer times with no use kills batteries too.

With no battery attached:
Disconnect the alternator cables and check the continuity, it has to come from somewhere.

Fault finding is time consuming so better to do it yourselves.

Roel

1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001)
1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009)
2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts.
2003 90 Td5 (2009-now)

14th May 2017 4:54pm

LandRoverAnorak

Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

As Fifth Horseman says, dead alternator now killing your battery. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia

14th May 2017 4:58pm

rockster57

Member Since: 15 Nov 2014
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 945

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Zermatt Silver

I concur with Horse and Anorak. I had same symptoms with a BMW E39 (V8 lovely car). Main dealer diagnostics failed to find fault. On the 3rd visit old fashioned mechanic techniques traced problem to the alternator. Fortunately my battery wasn't fried so new alternator did the trick.

14th May 2017 10:14pm

Staftly

Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 55

Hi all,

Thank you so much for all your responses. Earlier I disconnect the battery and put it on charge. it looks like its taking a charge just fine, so I'm guessing it's most likely the alternator thats at fault, hopefully it's not cooked my battery. Now the problem I have now is getting at the alternator. Problem with these TDV8 engines is that there's not an inch of room! I'll phone round for a few quotes, in the meantime I google a little to see if its within my capabilities (and patience level).

I should also change the battery, I can't recall every having had it swapped & the car is now 8 y/old. Us Lancastrians, we're tighter than cramp!

Thanks again fellas for all your replies. Much appreciated.

Steve

15th May 2017 9:43am

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