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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Td5 Intermittent Power
My 2005 110 has recently developed an intermittent fault, it feels like it's throwing itself into limp mode but the engine management light doesn't come on. It happens totally randomly, turning it off and re-starting it seems to restore it.

I've plugged it into the Nanocom and no fault codes are showing, likewise checked the majority of the engine plugs and the ecu connection to see if something is loose but nothing seems out of ordinary.

Has anyone experienced similar or can suggest what may be the issue?

Thanks, Harry
Post #622863 9th May 2017 11:53am
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rustandoil



Member Since: 08 Sep 2012
Location: Cotswolds
Posts: 735

England 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS DCPU Bonatti Grey
Relay under the drivers seat was the culprit when I had similar issues
Post #622869 9th May 2017 12:16pm
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bankz5152



Member Since: 02 Feb 2017
Location: South London/North Kent
Posts: 2142

2004 Defender 110 Td5 DCPU Epsom Green
Check the usual, red plug oil, clean MAP, check MAF, no de-laminated/split hoses, intercooler solid

Mine did the same once, turned it off and back on fixed it fault never returned.
Post #622928 9th May 2017 3:13pm
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huffhuff



Member Since: 05 May 2016
Location: Home Counties
Posts: 379

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Java Black
I had similar. Happened more on extreme adverse camber or going over bumps. So, I figured it was a loose or chaffed wire somewhere. Finally (after many months) worked out it was a dry joint on the red side of ECU socket. Resoldered and been hunkey sorry ever since (well, that particular problem hasn't come back) TD5 Defender 90
Discovery 3 HSE
Post #623015 9th May 2017 9:16pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Thank you for the responses, I took the LR on holiday to Scotland and the problem has become a bit more persistent over the last few weeks and there's a bit of oil in the red ECU plug so will swap the injector loom this evening, fingers crossed that should solve the issue.

Does anyone have any tips on cleaning the oil from the wiring loom and plug?
Post #626031 22nd May 2017 12:39pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

brake clean and time to clean the oil out from the loom and plug

unplug and use brake cleaner to flush oil out from plug
Post #626033 22nd May 2017 12:49pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Check the red plug a couple of times for a week or two after you've cleaned it as more oil can travel down after the injector loom has been changed. I did a thread a while ago about sealing the injector loom before fitting to stop it happening again. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #626075 22nd May 2017 4:18pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Thanks chaps Thumbs Up Got side-lined last night by changing the leaky clutch master cylinder but in the meantime have unplugged the connectors and showered it in brake cleaner to start cleaning it.

Found your thread thank you Mk1collector, really good idea - I'll get down to Halfrauds this evening to buy some sealant.

Fingers crossed this should solve the problem Very Happy
Post #626281 23rd May 2017 11:06am
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Laurie



Member Since: 22 Feb 2008
Location: Sussex, England
Posts: 2897

England 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Bonatti Grey
Look at the temp. gauge when it happens. If it flicks to maximum then it is going into limp mode which doesn't seem to show on analysis. Could be blocked radiator. 
Post #626296 23rd May 2017 11:38am
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TechnoTurkey



Member Since: 25 Jul 2016
Location: Worcestershire
Posts: 88

2005 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Zambezi Silver
Mine was a filthy MAP, gave it a good clean and the problem didn't return.
Post #626557 24th May 2017 9:33am
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
So I've been abroad with work and LR related jobs have slipped a bit but I didn't change the injector loom last time I was home. I went to change it this morning and there's no more oil in the red plug it since I last cleaned with brake cleaner 1,000 miles ago. The problem hasnt re-occurred since the plug was cleaned out either.

Pulling the acoustic cover off the top, there was no evidence of oil in the plug at the engine end but the MAP sensor was unplugged. Would this have caused the issue? Given that I have the parts to do the injector loom, is it worth doing or just keep an eye out for when it does start to leak.

Last time it went into limp mode was in May, the Nanocom showed the following


Click image to enlarge
Post #635323 3rd Jul 2017 1:44pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
1st step is always a new MAF

Dan @ Duckworths had genuine ones at reasonable price (only get a Genuine Siemens VDO unit)

If that doesn't fix it then

MAP
Oil in loom
New injector harness
Check turbo actuator moves at 20psi (bike pump)
Post #635334 3rd Jul 2017 2:47pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
You say the MAP sensor was unplugged, did you mean MAF? Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #635341 3rd Jul 2017 3:22pm
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Harry.O



Member Since: 25 Jul 2014
Location: Warwickshire
Posts: 712

United Kingdom 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi ST Nato Green
Thanks chaps, the MAF sensor was changed for a genuine Siemens unit 3,000 miles ago and is reading correctly when the Nanocom is plugged in. The MAP sensor on the inlet manifold was the one unplugged but I've no idea how long it has been like that for.

There's no more oil trickling down the loom but will check the turbo is opening correctly. Is it worth changing the loom anyway?

Wondering if the turbo is causing the issue, seem to recall each time it died was whilst pulling fairly hard up a hill although since getting back, it's not repeated the problem. Do i pull the rubber pipe off the actuator and wedge the compressor into it?
Post #635346 3rd Jul 2017 3:39pm
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Tiger



Member Since: 06 Jul 2012
Location: Wales
Posts: 2265

2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Java Black
Don't wedge a compressor only takes 20PSI to move it

Bike pump works just fine Thumbs Up
Post #635347 3rd Jul 2017 3:41pm
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