 | Home > Technical > Winch install |
 
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8043   
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For best winch motor results go back to the battery, no question. It will pull better for longer and last longer. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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22nd Apr 2017 12:44pm |
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| Daisy90 Member Since: 01 Feb 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 845  
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I second the above comment also
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22nd Apr 2017 7:10pm |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720 
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positive wants to go right back to the battery.
the earth could go on the chassis next to the battery, electrically its little different to taking that right to the battery, but it only saves you about a foot of cable. |
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22nd Apr 2017 9:15pm |
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| geobloke Member Since: 06 Nov 2012 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 4410
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3rd above comments and to add I did not do this first time and ended up melting my handbrake cable solid and engaged... Not a fun afternoons green laning... Always direct to the battery/ies...
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23rd Apr 2017 8:59am |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572 
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Thanks guys,
Back to the battery it is! Now I have to find a decent new stud type terminal connector for the negative pole on the battery, there appears to be a lot of rubbish out there. I wonder why Land Rover fitted that weird clamp to the negative and an excellent bus bar type to the positive? Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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23rd Apr 2017 9:46am |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 917 
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You're not the only one to think that over the years it is a rubbish idea ultility wise and probably the cheapest. 
I've used the Durite ones in the past. https://www.devon4x4.com/battery-terminal-48164.html |
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23rd Apr 2017 9:59am |
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| ChrisCM Member Since: 10 Jun 2013 Location: Cornwall uk Posts: 572
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Thanks for the Devon 4x4 link, that's the type I'm after, I suppose that these will be high quality compared to the eBay £2.99 jobbies!
Chris 2010 Defender 110 Station Wagon, Santorini Black. |
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23rd Apr 2017 10:04am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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Because you can connect to the other end of the neg lead where it joins the chassis, electrically it's the same as connecting to the battery terminal. And it saves them a fortune in manufacturing. |
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23rd Apr 2017 6:31pm |
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| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
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That negative clamp POS, I chopped it off and replaced with a clamp from the Mobilecentre! Can't comment price wise but all the gear I have purchased from them has been top notch
I also increased the size of the earth too 53mm when I did my blue sea install similar too BP man! |
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24th Apr 2017 6:58am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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This is what I assumed would be ok on mine ... I sure made sure I cleaned up that spade on the chassis end of the earth cable and that the winch one went straight on top... Positive I spent the time getting it to the battery itself. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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24th Apr 2017 8:18am |
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| zsd-puma Member Since: 09 Aug 2016 Location: Kent Posts: 2720
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You don't have to spend a fortune on a battery terminal if you want to change it. http://www.autosparks.co.uk/electrical-com...overs.html Plenty there for around £3 and very high quality, they also sell the cable too and ring terminals. I've bought a lot from Autosparks, i can't think of anything that was poor quality. |
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24th Apr 2017 11:24am |
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039  
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I have 2 positive and negative cables.
On the negative side I have one cable to the battery and one to the engine. I also have 2 positive cables to my master switch. One from the battery and one from the altenator. Why? because about 100 amps come from the Altenator. Roel 1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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24th Apr 2017 7:02pm |
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| Miggit Member Since: 09 Mar 2017 Location: Milton Keynes Posts: 72
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If your going to make your own cables then this stuff is good quality.. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232046811588?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT I've just used it on my RRC, and it is very heavy duty (35mm) I also used http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201618902641?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT and a blow lamp and rather a lot of solder!! finished off with some self adhesive heat shrink..
The biggest pain was getting the terminals to stay put for the solder treatment, in the end I found that a big pair of water pump pliers were the best thing to squish the terminal.... it was too big for my crimping pliers that go up to 25mm  I then heated up the eye end of the terminal and added solder at the cable end, eventually it all went silver... And the heat was only applied as needed, not constantly. I ended up with 3 leads that I needed for not much more than the cost of one RRC 2.4 TD... it's either a stretched 90 or shrunken 110!!
ML 270CDI |
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24th Apr 2017 7:04pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Keen to learn from wiser folk but I was taught not to rely on solder for lugs, idea being that if it were to generate heat that the solder may soften and the connection get loose. The lug had to be mechanically sound (crimped with the appropriate tool) before solder were considered, but by then it was redundant... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Last edited by agentmulder on 24th Apr 2017 8:59pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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24th Apr 2017 7:42pm |
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