DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Puma bonnet and doors secured.....hopefully.

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma bonnet and doors secured.....hopefully.

Page 1 of 2

Print this entire topic ·

DrKaz

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 13

2012 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Santorini Black

Puma bonnet and doors secured.....hopefully.

Hi all
I put the bonnet hinges in alone. Video on YouTube shows bonnet being lifted off by two people. I do all my DIY alone so had to manage on my own. Easy job actually, just prop the bonnet open stay in middle against the fastener. It usefully drops the angle of the bonnet allowing more space for spanner action. No paint under the hinge, just primer!
I used tamper proof nuts instead of the nylocs nuts provided and filled the bolt and nut heads with araldite. I greased up the black inserts so fitment into the curl metal hinge holder of the bulkhead slipped in very easily.
Finally I applied araldite across the top of the curl metal hinge holder to make it more difficult for the thief to crow bar this weak point and lift bonnet. Several layers were applied to make it one flush surface.
Lastly I changed my door bolts to stainless steel Allan headed bolts and hammered home a steel ballbarian into the hole filled with ...... yes you guessed it more araldite.

As an additional anti-scumbag measure, a heavy duty cycle lock has been threaded through the bonnet and engine bay allowing opening gap of 6 inches, enough to allow me to unlock it.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The pics show araldite when wet having just been applied. It will look more tidy when dry.

I will sleep well tonight.

DrKaz

Last edited by DrKaz on 17th Jan 2017 5:47pm. Edited 2 times in total

17th Jan 2017 5:18pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20368

As I've said many times before to everyone and anyone.
It needs to be put in the back of the mind that any security details discussed or put into the public domain can be used or viewed by thieves.
That includes here, various FB groups etc etc.

Personally I only discuss any security detail with site sponsors, or trusted friends that I know are genuine owners.

Theieves pick up a lot of info, ideas and vulnerabities simply by people unknowingly discussing it online all over the place.
Take Trackers for example, it was often discussed a common place to fit.

It didn't take long for thieves to commonly check said location for Tracker in seconds.

After all, would anyone discuss anywhere online his their house was most vulnerable to break in.
Or say their door code for security entry of their home / business or alarm etc etc.

It's often the unknown covert mods we do, that we do not knowingly discuss that trips them up.
There are plenty that I know of that they certainly would not bargain on.

$W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

17th Jan 2017 5:28pm

DrKaz

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 13

Sorry but I don't think I've done anything wrong in posting this.

I have not revealed anything new here. These hinges are commonly being used but still have flaws.
Many have mentioned araldite or equivalent in bolt heads. And the balbarian in the head has been around and is popular with the cyclist community. Finally tamper proof nuts are an easy purchase.
I share so others can secure their vehicles too. There are several different hinges on the market and this helps those who are in the process of choosing one.

DrKaz

Last edited by DrKaz on 17th Jan 2017 5:44pm. Edited 2 times in total

17th Jan 2017 5:40pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

How do you get the ball bearings out of the door hinges to change them when the cheap steel pin that Landrover put them together with rots away? Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

17th Jan 2017 5:42pm

DrKaz

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 13

They can be drilled out.
I lubricate these pins regularly and have heard some who do so get many years out of them.
This remains to be seen.
DrKaz

17th Jan 2017 5:46pm

Iktank

Member Since: 08 Nov 2014
Location: Porthcawl
Posts: 237

2014 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 SW Corris Grey

DrKaz wrote:
Sorry but I don't think I've done anything wrong in posting this.

I have not revealed anything new here. These hinges are commonly being used but still have flaws.
Many have mentioned araldite or equivalent in bolt heads. And the balbarian in the head has been around and is popular with the cyclist community. Finally tamper proof nuts are an easy purchase.
I share so others can secure their vehicles too. There are several different hinges on the market and this helps those who are in the process of choosing one.

DrKaz

I agree

17th Jan 2017 6:19pm

custom90

Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20368

I never said anyone did anything wrong, it was purely a reminder. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
🇬🇧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁥󠁮󠁧󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🇮🇪🇺🇸⛽️🛢️⚙️🧰💪

17th Jan 2017 6:22pm

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey

mk1collector wrote:
How do you get the ball bearings out of the door hinges to change them when the cheap steel pin that Landrover put them together with rots away?

With considerable difficulty!

Been there, done that!

17th Jan 2017 6:59pm

mk1collector

Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

Yeah I thought that might be the case. I'd have thought just filling the head head with some kind of epoxy resin should stop anyone trying to nick the doors as it would take a while to dig it out before unbolting and if you need to remove the hinges it should only take half an hour with a dremel. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html

17th Jan 2017 9:02pm

miker

Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

I've decided that I'm sticking with my TD5. The bonnets don't seem to be desirable, and I remove mine for almost every maintenance job!

17th Jan 2017 10:58pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2646

If you've filled the hinge with epoxy glue, how do you now open the bonnet?

18th Jan 2017 8:43pm

DrKaz

Member Since: 05 Dec 2016
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 13

No resin has been applied to the centres of the black inserts that house the pivoting bolts of the hinge. Resin application only to metal curl attached to the bulkhead and top of these black insert to prevent thieves from using a crowbar to lever the curl straight.
DrKaz Doctor during week, wannabe Mechanic at weekends!
Land Rover Defender 2.2 2012- daily drive
Austin Mini City 1989- weekend play toy
Volvo XC90 D5 SE 2007 SOLD
Audi TT 2.0 TDi Quattro 2008 SOLD
BMW 5series 525d 2005 SOLD
BMW Z3 2.0 1998 SOLD
BMW 318ti 2002 SOLD
Mitsubishi Shogun 3.0 TD 2000 SOLD
Mazda MX5 1998 SOLD
Suzuki Jimny 1.3 GLX 1999 SOLD
Rover Metro 114 GTA 1996 - first car SOLD

19th Jan 2017 12:38am

nitram17

Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Re: Puma bonnet and doors secured.....hopefully.

DrKaz wrote:
Hi all
I put the bonnet hinges in alone. Video on YouTube shows bonnet being lifted off by two people. I do all my DIY alone so had to manage on my own. Easy job actually, just prop the bonnet open stay in middle against the fastener. It usefully drops the angle of the bonnet allowing more space for spanner action. No paint under the hinge, just primer!
I used tamper proof nuts instead of the nylocs nuts provided and filled the bolt and nut heads with araldite. I greased up the black inserts so fitment into the curl metal hinge holder of the bulkhead slipped in very easily.
Finally I applied araldite across the top of the curl metal hinge holder to make it more difficult for the thief to crow bar this weak point and lift bonnet. Several layers were applied to make it one flush surface.
Lastly I changed my door bolts to stainless steel Allan headed bolts and hammered home a steel ballbarian into the hole filled with ...... yes you guessed it more araldite.

As an additional anti-scumbag measure, a heavy duty cycle lock has been threaded through the bonnet and engine bay allowing opening gap of 6 inches, enough to allow me to unlock it.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

The pics show araldite when wet having just been applied. It will look more tidy when dry.

I will sleep well tonight.

DrKaz

A theif with a small fit in your pocket potable gas burner would be able to melt the glue and security heads are to widespread now to be of little value .....your best bet is to use one shear bolt per hinge side and hope you dont have to remove te doors anytime soon ......in reality how often do you need to remove the doors.

I have thought of attaching a stainess steel cable covered in ss trunking between the inside of the door to the door frame via the electrial wire conduit .....its not infallable but it will slow the

down.I can only disagee 100% with customer steve in his views on security .........he appears to be in the mums te word club when it comes to security "my special measure will protect my truck ".....im in the other camp wher the more trucks proteted te better and that can only be done with spreading the word ........profesional scumbags knowc all the tricks ( cut of switches obd blockng ecu scrambling ect)despite what customer steve thinks .....but the more layers you have the longer it will take to overcome and they may move on ...and thats what its all about !If every defender in the land had 6 of th most common security layers less would be stolen and its not becaus the theives dont know how to overcome them it just takes them longer to do so.Ihav often thought of putting a sticker on my truck listing the actual security measures plus a few ficticious ones it will put ofthe casual theif and may make the professional go to the next tuckon the list.

31st Mar 2017 1:07am

bpman

Member Since: 21 May 2008
Location: Oslo
Posts: 8069

2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black

Good job DrKaz, good informative post for new and old owners, we can't stop them but we can slow them down. Every layer helps.

@nitram - interesting idea listing your layers

31st Mar 2017 7:11am

blackwolf

Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17382

Re: Puma bonnet and doors secured.....hopefully.

nitram17 wrote:
... in reality how often do you need to remove the doors ...

About once every three years if you have genuine Landrover hinges, when the hinge pins deteriorate to the point of uselessness!

31st Mar 2017 8:53am

Page 1 of 2

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum