 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Advice on 'lifting' the vehicle by 2" |
 
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610   
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I am considering 'lifting' my vehicle by a couple of inches! I am also aware that there are several options available to achieve this! I have heavy duty suspension as standard and would not look at spring and shock replacements! The advice I seek is thus....Is it fact or fiction that lifting the vehicle would throw the castor out by 3 degrees and therefore the springs would be slightly out of alignment and increase strain on the propshaft?? Also to counteract the 3 degree castor it is advisable to replace or bush your radial arms to counteract this??
Any advice gratefully received!  If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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1st Feb 2011 8:28pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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K9, what's the reason for the lift? If you already have HD springs etc what will it achieve? in terms of degrees it wont neccessarily be 3 degrees, it ll depend on how you lift it using what components. Are your HD springs OEM or aftermarket? if the latter, you may find already that you have a lift. It's easy to tell, just measure from the top to the bottom of the spring. Standard (on a unladen 90 anyway) when on the vehicle itself are 300mm. If yours are any longer that's the amount of your lift. Not sure what they are on a 110
and yes, you will need correction arms. No idea where Simon from Devon 4x4 is coming from with that steve, there is a marked difference in the arms, you can just kneel down and see the change in angle and its effect on the bushes. Plus, 2" on the front and you'll probably need a double cardon prop, depends on if you feel vibration of not but at 2", its likely. ETA - your radius arms might need doing as well. It's a lot of money really just to lift your truck a bit unless there is a good reason (a good reason to you of course) |
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1st Feb 2011 8:43pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Thanks Steve, seem to be following each other through the threads! I've heard different things from different people! Good handling at higher speeds are important to me and if need be I am prepared to wait and spend the extra couple of hundred quid to get it done right! A mucker of mine implied handling would be affected without castor correction??? Wonder what everyone else has done or their own experiences all advice welcome!
If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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1st Feb 2011 8:44pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015  
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FACT... I lifted my Discovery by 2". A few months later I swaped steering to Sumo bars and when having them set up (Alignment) the garage adjusted everything but mentioned that the castor was out by 3 degrees. Do you need new props, castor corrector arms/ bushes...... That is an uncertainty. I know people who have put 3" lifts on without any problems, other have put a 2" lift on and had steering problems, and prop problems which were rectified by castor corrector arms. Only way to know will be to fit the kit and see how it goes, then fit other parts as necesary Glyn   |
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1st Feb 2011 8:46pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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and handling will most certainly suffer at high road speeds.
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1st Feb 2011 8:47pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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I think this will all be down to which springs and shocks. Again on my Discovery (as above) the ride was soft and unstable on the standard springs and shocks. The HD springs and firmer shocks made the Disco WAY more stable at all speeds..... My dad is also looking at kits after driving mine! Glyn |
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1st Feb 2011 8:52pm |
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| fekete Member Since: 24 Dec 2008 Location: Here on the other end of the computer Posts: 3626 
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3" and no problems
NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAYLast edited by fekete on 1st Feb 2011 9:00pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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1st Feb 2011 8:53pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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True. I guess it depends on which shocks/springs set up K9 has at the moment
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1st Feb 2011 8:53pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8582
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Red 110 was lifted 2" with 255/85 tyres. Brake hoses were extended. No castor correction done.
After about 25,000 miles due to driver error a new chassis was required. Castor correction arms were fitted at that stage. Was a drop in the ocean compared to rest of work being done  
No handling difference were experienced after the lift, no improvement was noticed with correction ars fitted. I wold say that conventional wisdom is up to a 2" lift extend brake hoses and only go down castor correction arms if problems experienced 3-4" lift then go for castor correction from the off HTH Brendan |
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1st Feb 2011 8:54pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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that you know of yet |
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1st Feb 2011 8:54pm |
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| Glynparry25 Member Since: 16 Feb 2009 Location: Miserable Midlands Posts: 3015
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Just a little pick at that.... I know loads of people who have been conned by that statement. Only need extended brake lines if you fit extended shocks.... lots of 'suspension kits' come with standard (or slightly extended) shocks which means you don't need extended lines. Glyn |
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1st Feb 2011 8:58pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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What Glyn said. You dont need extended hoses with standard travel shocks and a 2" lift.
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1st Feb 2011 8:59pm |
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| fekete Member Since: 24 Dec 2008 Location: Here on the other end of the computer Posts: 3626
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Yep Glyn you correct you don't need extended lines....
Mike not even a bit of vibration YET NEVER TAKE LIFE SERIOUSLY. NOBODY GETS OUT ALIVE ANYWAY |
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1st Feb 2011 9:04pm |
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| BigMike Member Since: 13 Jul 2010 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2253
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Karl, take a look at the angle of the trailing arms where they meet the chassis, and look at the gap where the bush sits. There will be one. Everytime you go over a bump the front section of the arm is being jarred and eventually is likely to snap, esp during v cold weather
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1st Feb 2011 9:08pm |
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