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M94PUMA

Member Since: 16 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 132

agentmulder wrote:
Thoughts on replacing the pipes?

Also, how are people retorqueing the pipe unions to spec? Everyone has the correct insert and wrench to accept it?

I understand that not all torque specs are that critical, but I would have thought that this one is (?)

I just left the old pipes on there, removed the nut of the injectors and just loostened the nuts where all five unions meet and turned them out the way,
I just pinched them back up to Fairly tight, a good few cracks once you've got it tight with the spanner. I really wouldn't worry,

The two injector clamp bolts I've done up the same way fairly tight and then just a little bit more but not crazy as it's going into the alley head so could strip threads quite easily I imagine.

27th Mar 2017 8:35pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

The injector clamp bolts have a stupidly low torque setting. I just did mine up tight by hand, the same on the pipes.

27th Mar 2017 9:11pm

smb

Member Since: 15 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1232

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

rossy wrote:
M94PUMA wrote:

As for the crankcase breather it vents back into the intake just before the turbo, so any pressure pushes oil & pressure into the turbo and back through the engine..

But wouldn't the turbo vanes eventually get clogged up with oil and carbon ? Just trying to understand as mine has been like this now for God knows how long and its running well surprisingly. I thought only clean air went through the compressor whilst exhaust gases operated the turbine impellers. My turbo and intercooler must be in an awful state !

.

That is why it is pretty good to install a ProVent to collect it all.

28th Mar 2017 8:25am

smb

Member Since: 15 Jan 2013
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 1232

rossy wrote:
M94PUMA wrote:

As for the crankcase breather it vents back into the intake just before the turbo, so any pressure pushes oil & pressure into the turbo and back through the engine..

But wouldn't the turbo vanes eventually get clogged up with oil and carbon ? Just trying to understand as mine has been like this now for God knows how long and its running well surprisingly. I thought only clean air went through the compressor whilst exhaust gases operated the turbine impellers. My turbo and intercooler must be in an awful state !

.

That is why it is pretty good to install a ProVent to collect it all.

28th Mar 2017 8:25am

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Stornoway Grey

Today I spoke to my nearest JLR dealer for a price on changing the seals and was quoted a whopping € 800 ! Thats € 300 parts and € 500 for an incredible 5 hours labour all of which includes their recommended removing and cleaning the sump ( ? )

Good job I was sitting down.

You guys should feel jolly pleased with yourselves to that job in an hour. I need to start getting handier with the spanners.

.

28th Mar 2017 6:42pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

LR procedure is to replace all the pipes too. They're about £50 each. And the copper washers are £18 each!

That all adds up in the parts total.

You don't actually 'need' to replace the pipes, but you can understand a dealer replacing them, as it saves the potential for leaks and contamination,

28th Mar 2017 9:04pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Also little o-rings in the fuel return line clips that apparently go brittle... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

29th Mar 2017 12:50am

M94PUMA

Member Since: 16 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 132

I baught a kit on eBay that has the copper seals, little o rings for the leak offs, and rubber seals that sit right on the top of the engine around the tops of the injectors for £30, took half an hour to do, it really is simple stuff guys. Engine seems to run a lot smoother, doesn't have a big cloud of blue smoke now when I first drive off when it's cold. Much better.

29th Mar 2017 6:35am

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

Thanks for the inspiration and info M94. I'm going to have a stab at it myself.

The only question I have is how you clean the crud out of what looks like a long narrow hole down to where the injector tip is seated without getting anything to fall into the cylinder ? You said you used a wire brush but I've never seen one that small. Just want to have everything to hand before I start. Thanks

.

29th Mar 2017 3:22pm

M94PUMA

Member Since: 16 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 132

I didn't say anything about a wire brush sorry

I didn't clean out the seat inside the cylinder head for that reason I couldn't find anything to get down inside there.

I cleaned around the tips of the injectors to get the new copper seals on i think that's what you got mixed up!

29th Mar 2017 4:14pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

Laser tools do a kit for doing it, but it's not cheap.

A small wire bottle brush will do it though. The laser kit has plugs to block the bottom of the holes up. But to be honest the crud is soot that came out of the cylinder in the first place there will be plenty more of it already in the cylinder where it's not been running right.

Other than a bit of oil getting in there which will burn off after a bit of a drive I wouldn't worry. Once it's sealed properly and running properly the cylinders will clean them selves.

29th Mar 2017 4:23pm

rossy

Member Since: 29 Nov 2010
Location: Co. Roscommon
Posts: 1296

Sorry M94 I did a search as well. Someone was talking about a wire brush on another tread and I got confused

I also checked out youtube and it seems that in many cases the copper seal gets stuck at the bottom of the hole which is then a nightmare to remove. Fingers crossed.

.

29th Mar 2017 4:27pm

M94PUMA

Member Since: 16 Dec 2016
Location: Hampshire
Posts: 132

Mine was quite the opposite, stuck on the injectors quite tightly, even more tight getting the new ones on to start with I didn't think they had sent me the right ones, I just about got them on the tips and like I said before just put them gently into the head and gave the injector a good tap downwards to force the washer on. it's on 96K miles now and they where changed before at 40k, looks like the injectors have had a hard life and why I think the seals where a pig to take off & on. If I had the money I would put a whole set of injectors in but there working perfectly fine so if it ain't broke don't fix it!

29th Mar 2017 4:36pm

zsd-puma

Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

If they get stuck in the head, you can use a flat bladed screw driver (most have a taper on the heads) so you can push it down into the washer and it gets stuck on the end.

The washers i got from transit parts were also a snug fit on the injectors, i think most of that is because of the carbon on the tips. You can tap them on with a 10mm deep socket.

29th Mar 2017 5:37pm

agentmulder

Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

zsd-puma wrote:
The injector clamp bolts have a stupidly low torque setting. I just did mine up tight by hand, the same on the pipes.

Click image to enlarge

Yip, 6Nm isn't something I have on hand in terms of a wrench, but I reckon I could figure out a way to get in the ballpark ...

The extra 180deg is where the bolt yield comes in to play - would be interesting to see whereabouts it ends up torque-wise at the end of that second rotation. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

29th Mar 2017 10:47pm

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