 | Home > Technical > TD5 Clutch slipping |
 
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| roel Member Since: 08 Aug 2009 Location: Lelystad Posts: 2039   
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First thing to check:
Does your clutch pedal return to the very top position? If it moves more difficult it might not return completely and this gives the same symptoms. After you change gear check if you can pull up your clutch pedal with your feet and i'll bet the clutch won't slip anymore. I have the same problem I just found out. I thought my clutch was on the way out after installing a power box but a few weeks ago I found out that my pedal doesn't return completely and a few days ago I found out that I can use all the power the box gives as long as I pull the clutch pedal up. So I think I have to lubricate the clutch pedal. Just have to find out how to get to the right point. But first my D3 needs its regular maintenance.  Roel
1984 90 2.5 na Diesel - RR V8 (1994-2001) 1997 Camel Trophy Discovery 300TDI (2001-2009) 2005 G4 Discovery III 4.4 V8 (2008-2018) It's gone but it still hurts. 2003 90 Td5 (2009-now) |
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12th Dec 2014 2:08pm |
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| tazmarkuk Member Since: 24 Jan 2012 Location: Birmingham Posts: 134  
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Hi thanks for the info, but yes the pedals returns fully
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12th Dec 2014 2:25pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443 
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There's a common fault that can make a clutch slip especially at higher revs i.e. that point just before the next gear change, 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc. This is 99times out of a 100 due to contamination, usually a leaking fuel pressure regulator or the rear of the rocker cover through the half moon portion of the gasket. These symptoms show up in damp weather and with mine I've had it show up for a short time on long journeys. Another source of contamination may be from a faulty rear engine seal.
If there's any sort of oil showing at the back of the engine and over the top of the bell housing, fix the leak and use the motor, it wil 'burn' off eventually or you can squirt brake cleaner or the like into the bell housing to help disperse the contamination. Clutches do last on Td5's, my 110 has over 170K on the clock, I use it as my daily driver and I use it for everything it was designed for, towing, laning, fairly long journeys etc etc all on the original clutch. |
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12th Dec 2014 2:53pm |
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| tazmarkuk Member Since: 24 Jan 2012 Location: Birmingham Posts: 134
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The rear oil seal was replaced with the clutch, but will be checking in the morning, i haven't noticed anything dripped onto the drive though. Thanks
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12th Dec 2014 5:42pm |
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| diesel_jim Member Since: 13 Oct 2008 Location: hiding Posts: 6092  
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Funnily enough, my 110 does the same (although for the first 3000 miles of its life it mistakingly had a 300Tdi slave cylinder fitted and not a Td5 one, which although they look the same, the piston has a 5mm deeper insert on the Td5, so gave the impression of having the clutch "slipped")
I just bought yesterday a valeo kit. I did have the fuel pressure regulator leaking a while back, which I fixed, but I see the rocker cover is weeping a little now. Job for over christmas... clutch and rocker cover. Joy....  |
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12th Dec 2014 7:35pm |
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| tazmarkuk Member Since: 24 Jan 2012 Location: Birmingham Posts: 134
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I've just checked for leaks, there are none, this was a Valeo clutch kit with dual mass flywheel, I also fitted a genuine spigot bush as these are a couple of mm longer and heard of others having the squeal return not long after a new pattern item being fitted. Looking to see if adjustment on the pedal will help now.
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12th Dec 2014 7:59pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5700 
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I will agree with the above comments. Mine was the same, but after a while found the FPR to be leaking. Takes very little leak, and mine only leaked when going slow, so when returning the most fuel, other times all good.
Andy |
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12th Dec 2014 9:06pm |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1423 
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Just wondering roughly how long did it take to burn Off ? The old rocker cover gasket had gone hard, causing it to weep, which was replaced 3 weeks ago. Clutch has just started to slip occasionally. Taken out the wading plug in the bell housing, and although nothing ran out it feels oily on the pinkey i managed to shove in, which came out black. Sprayed some brake cleaner in the hole. Fingers crossed it resolves itself  |
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6th Apr 2015 7:30pm |
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| JWL Member Since: 26 Oct 2011 Location: Hereford Posts: 3443
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It doesn't take too long but it can re-appear after some wading or a very wet day especially on long journeys but saying that I didn't spray any degreaser into mine so there is probably residue still in there.
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6th Apr 2015 9:17pm |
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| tazmarkuk Member Since: 24 Jan 2012 Location: Birmingham Posts: 134
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Hi guys, update on my original problem of the clutch slipping, Fitted new clutch now, there was no leaks at all, bone dry in the bell housing, the clutch pedal was coming all the way back and there was no more adjustment to be had.
The old clutch looked ok. I've fitted a new master & slave cylinders even though they weren't leaking and were only about 3 years old. However I had noticed the fluid in the master cylinder was starting to look grey. My thought perhaps it's dragging but I would of thought you would feel it through thee pedal. I've also fitted a red booster servo, this will be interesting to see how that works. just waiting on a new set of wheels as some low life stole my wheels over the weekend. |
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7th Apr 2015 6:50am |
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| barbel jim Member Since: 12 Dec 2012 Location: Northants Posts: 1423
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Got a feeling the rear crank seal is leaking, and timing is just coincidental, but I'll keep spraying the brake cleaner in hope !!! |
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7th Apr 2015 5:13pm |
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| Daisy90 Member Since: 01 Feb 2015 Location: Hampshire Posts: 845 
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Hi all, how can the clutch / clutch pedal be adjusted please ?
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11th Apr 2015 8:42pm |
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| Fatboy Slim Member Since: 04 Feb 2008 Location: Bridgend Posts: 1006 
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There is a rectangular plate on top of the clutch pedal box, in the engine bay, next to the brake servo. Take the screws out (6 from memory) and you'll see there is adjustment on the operating rod for the master cylinder. Much easier with 2 people as you can get an assistant to push the pedal down, then you can get the ring end of a 13mm spanner onto the threaded rod to slacken the nut off.
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11th Apr 2015 9:16pm |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5700
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 Click image to enlarge |
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12th Apr 2015 3:35am |
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