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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Fitting tow electric socket into crossmember recess
I'd like to fit my 7 pin electric socket into the cross memeber recess.

While using the search function, I've seen some people mention using Rivnuts, is this the only way?

Thanks in advance for the advice.
Mark
Post #603778 21st Feb 2017 10:44pm
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Swac3



Member Since: 21 Feb 2015
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 363

Like in the the other thread , I didn't riv nut them , just marked the required screw positions, drilled them and used long self tapping screws to secure the tow socket.

The only real issue with mounting the socket in the hole is the shape of the hole in relation to the tow socket flip up cover, be sure to mount the socket low enough to allow the cover to hinge up.

A dry run before you you drill or fix it in will highlight the issue, on mine the cover doesn't open exactly vertical, due to the available metal in the crossmember and the position of the screw holes on the connector, doesn't bother me but for those with a more OCD personality it might.

Edit... for a 7 pin i'd say the securing is less of an issue as its a push pull fit, the 13 pin on the other hand you subject to rotational forces when connecting/disconnecting the plug. 3 Landrovers
Post #603785 21st Feb 2017 11:14pm
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Thanks very much, appreciate your input.

I've seen a rivnut tool on eBay for under £20 so I might just bite the bullet. I'd really like it in that recess, it's a bit irrational but it just looks better!

Thanks
Mark My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #603799 21st Feb 2017 11:59pm
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
Quote:
The only real issue with mounting the socket in the hole is the shape of the hole in relation to the tow socket flip up cover, be sure to mount the socket low enough to allow the cover to hinge up.


The recess is basically an oval shape, you can fit the socket so the hinge is on one side.


Quote:
I've seen some people mention using Rivnuts, is this the only way?

No you can take the diesel tank out and put normal nuts on the back. A bit of an effort though. Laughing
Buy a rivnut tool, they're so cheap now and usually come with a kit of rivnuts.

Personally i would fit a 13 pin socket, its a much better plug and socket, little or no corrosion, they dont burn out, just a far better mechanical connection. Even if you don't use all the pins, you can have a reverse light function.
Post #603820 22nd Feb 2017 5:18am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
I don't fancy removing the tank! Smile

Thanks for your advice, I'll have a think about the plug type before doing it. But I think I'll order a rivnut kit as you suggested and go for it.

Thanks! My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #603829 22nd Feb 2017 7:03am
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jonny2tanx



Member Since: 06 Jul 2014
Location: Harpenden, Herts
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Alveston Red
meeerrrk wrote:
Thanks very much, appreciate your input.

I've seen a rivnut tool on eBay for under £20 so I might just bite the bullet. I'd really like it in that recess, it's a bit irrational but it just looks better!

Thanks
Mark


Depending on the type of rivnut tool you may not be able to get it into the recess to operate the tool. The type with 2 handles that you squeeze together needs to be close to the place you are inserting the rivnut in to and will not work on the crossmember recess.
Post #603830 22nd Feb 2017 7:18am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Thanks Jonny, I did think that. The ones which look like a normal rivet tool are cheap but the Long two handle ones are a lot more expensive, I'll have to check carefully before wasting money! My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #603833 22nd Feb 2017 7:50am
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Super7



Member Since: 05 Feb 2014
Location: South Bucks.
Posts: 132

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 90 Td5 CSW Rutland Red
I think I just drilled and tapped mine.

Smile '99 TD5 Defender 90
'52 Series 1 80"
'99 Caterham 7
Post #603834 22nd Feb 2017 7:54am
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meeerrrk



Member Since: 12 Feb 2017
Location: Surrey
Posts: 548

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Stornoway Grey
Sounds like a sensible idea! My 90 Project : http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic52774.html
Post #603838 22nd Feb 2017 8:38am
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jonny2tanx



Member Since: 06 Jul 2014
Location: Harpenden, Herts
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 110 Td5 XS CSW Alveston Red
meeerrrk wrote:
Thanks Jonny, I did think that. The ones which look like a normal rivet tool are cheap but the Long two handle ones are a lot more expensive, I'll have to check carefully before wasting money!


And they are pretty hard to squeeze together unless you have arms like Garth. I used self tappers when I shifted mine
Post #603839 22nd Feb 2017 8:50am
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1763

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
meeerrrk wrote:
I don't fancy removing the tank! Smile

Thanks for your advice, I'll have a think about the plug type before doing it. But I think I'll order a rivnut kit as you suggested and go for it.

Thanks!


You can get to most bits in the crossmember by just dropping the tank guard, I tend to support my tank on a ratchet strap to the chassis and just drop the guard to the floor. easier with an empty tank!
Post #603860 22nd Feb 2017 10:07am
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zsd-puma



Member Since: 09 Aug 2016
Location: Kent
Posts: 2720

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black
jonny2tanx wrote:
meeerrrk wrote:
Thanks Jonny, I did think that. The ones which look like a normal rivet tool are cheap but the Long two handle ones are a lot more expensive, I'll have to check carefully before wasting money!


And they are pretty hard to squeeze together unless you have arms like Garth. I used self tappers when I shifted mine


It depends on the quality of the nutserts rather than the actual tool. Cheap ones can be a pig to squash up.
Post #603920 22nd Feb 2017 2:15pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Anyone ever think drilling the cross member is like saying rust faster to it? Rolling with laughter Mike
Post #603970 22nd Feb 2017 6:45pm
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
Given that the cross member is full of holes anyway, it's unlikely to be a big deal. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #603977 22nd Feb 2017 7:00pm
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mse



Member Since: 06 Apr 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 5035

United Kingdom 2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Scotia Grey
Yes nicely factory painted ones, not drilled uprimed new ones Whistle Mike
Post #603994 22nd Feb 2017 8:07pm
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