 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > High beam flash problem |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441  
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I can, and I'm sure it would do.
The issue is I have Nolden headlights to fit, the dim dip will not be compatible with them. I'll create a bit of a tick list to to try and write down the results. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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18th Jan 2017 10:22pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17443 
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So the dim dip resistor wasn't the only change.
Unplug the Noldens, and see if the aux lights start working. If not, plug the resistor back in with the Noldens still unplugged and see what happens. |
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18th Jan 2017 10:48pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Not fitted them yet, still got the Crystals in.
I thought I'd get everything correct before I swap over see. The Noldens I have, have the pilot light, this is powered via an add in mini loom from the upper small sidelights. (The ones with Econoseal connectors. So with the Noldens you'll have; Sidelights - Pilot light. Dipped - Dipped. Main Beam - Main Beam. The pilot light is similar to the dim dip function only it doesn't work in the same stupid way if that makes sense. If I don't disable the dim - dip I'd have issues. On the 90 I only want dipped / main to work only. So for now, I want to sort out this issue with the aux Relay for my spots with Crystals still in. Only once sorted out I will swap over. This way I can methodically make sure everything is correct, as of now I have only disconnected the dim dip only.  $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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18th Jan 2017 11:01pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Okay - spent quite a long time out today. (Day off) to check things out in the cold.
Checked fuses first, all fuses in-tact. However, F25 has a 20A in there and the diagram for the fusebox dentotes a 10A. Previous owner then 2007 - 2010. 
I'll change that down to a 10A as it should be! Never the less, fuse in-tact. Connected dim dip again, no change, disconnected it again no change. So I've left it un-plugged as I'm pretty sure it doesn't ave anything to do with that now. Bridged pin 2 to pin 8 on the dim dip 'pink' Relay, no change. Checked in-line fuse for spots nearest battery, it's melted but not blown so I assume it hasn't been engaged long enogugh to blow a spot it's only been flashed. (It does have a 20A fuse for a 16A load so correctly fused.) Obviously this told me I've got a main short to earth from between there and positive. Just goes to show why you need correct fusing! Testing and checking the cable from the fuse holder to pin 30 on the spots Relay all good, and no short to ground either as tested that and it is also in convoluted tube also. (3mm2 cable.) Disconnected Relay, isolated the whole feed from the batteyr permanently now. Tested for voltage on the trigger feed from main beam, it APPEARS to be okay, but of course voltage fluctuating slightly with the load of the headlight main beam on it and battery voltage down slightly by this point. Relay coil has a resistance of 0.7 OHM which is abnormal. It should be for this size of Relay be in the range of 300mA / 40 OHM - 50mA / 160 OHM. So there may be a short with in the Relay as it probably got fried along with the short at source. Spotlights are 100w each x 2 = 200w / 16.4A load. Resistance should be around. 0.74 OHM. I've got 0 OHM on that circuit somthere is definitely a short there, bulb filaments appear in-tact but my guess is there is a hidden short or corrosion or similar issue. Why this has happened is beyond me, I've always insulate everything and use the correct gauge cable. So it must be wear & tear or similar atmospheric failure like possibly corrosion of bulb holders or insulation. Earth loop resistance is with in acceptable range IMO. For now it's completely isolated, the LR's wiring is 100% functioning and operational without the dim dip connected. I'm pretty confident I can sort this out from here on in hopefully.. I've got a new quality Durite Relay now too, with diode this time for extra protection from voltage spikes. Thank-you LRA and BW for your pointers and help, very helpful indeed and always appreciate your time and effort. Once sorted or any other issues I will report back. Big  . $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R
๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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19th Jan 2017 6:52pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547 
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Don't forget that the resistance is much lower when the filament is cold. 1/10x is a reasonable rule of thumb, so you would be looking to measure in the order of 0.1Ohm, which is probably beyond the accuracy of a general purpose DMM. So you might not have a problem after all?
edited to put dp in right place  (it is still quite a low reading to measure accurately with a DMM) |
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19th Jan 2017 7:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Your right, having tested the Relay again tonight it's at 0.89 OHM
I think it had stored energy still within the coil when I tested that, none the less. A new Relay will do no harm, the current one is a few years old. The Relay 'click' I may be missing hearing when stalk on latched as it clicks too its self. Maybe the lovely MOT man I had sabotaged it. Who knows! Maybe the cold weather and me messing with it brought it on. Have to have it all out shortly and identify the culprit. 
I'm learning quite a bit, as I don't profess to be an expert with it all of it so the odd mistake I don't mind being corrected on at all. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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19th Jan 2017 8:13pm |
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| apt100 Member Since: 05 Mar 2015 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 1547
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Steve
(I'm certainly not an expert at auto electrics, but I do have 30yrs+ experience with Electrical Engineering and electronics and the basic principles apply) I was talking about the cold resistance of the lamp filaments. When they are cold they have a much lower resistance, which is why when you first switch on there is an initial high inrush current, for tens of milliseconds. As the filament heats, its resistance goes up and the current drops. It stabilises once the filament is up to temperature. (Just for interest...If you take a glass rod it does the opposite, connect it into a circuit with battery and bulb and practically no current flows because the resistance of the glass is very high - hence glass is often used as an electrical insulator. However, glass has a negative temperature co-efficient, so if you heat up the glass rod with say a Bunsen, its resistance falls and the bulb lights. A quick search found this but there are probably better demonstrations) Apologies for going a bit off track, but thought it might be interesting. Metals are the opposite and their resistance increases when heated. |
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19th Jan 2017 9:23pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Very interesting.
It's very difficult to get an acurate reading when as you say very cold weather, glass Halogen bulbs heating up and cooling down and a voltage source steadily dropping. More so in this cold weather. I couldn't run the engine at the time as I had so much of it to check through it'd be running for ages and next to people's houses. So I used ignition on only but of course cautious of battery drain, I did still notice a little reluctance to turn over when starting cold tonight before going out so just goes to show I'd have caused a big battery drain if I didn't take care. I also had only a relatively cheap Relay in place, so I'm not sorry to replace it with a quality brand. I can at least be satisfied I can use it trouble free and safely now without the spots as they are only aux anyway. And I can sort them out more or less any way I want. If I get too much trouble with main beam switching I'll just get a genuine dash switch and use that instead for the aux Relay. $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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19th Jan 2017 10:11pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20441
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Just thinking about this again tonight, due to be getting bits and pieces on order.
I haven't since touched it just yet - not with it brass monkeys outside at the moment. 
I forgot to mention that I found this very useful indeed for some of the work I did need to do. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Unilite-Prosafe-...Sw-KFXf4Z2 Especially the magnetic part, you can just stick it somewhere and you have light. This was th one K9F recommended a while ago on here, it's very good! $W33T $0U7H3RN $UG4R ๐ฌ๐ง๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ฅ๓ ฎ๓ ง๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ณ๓ ฃ๓ ด๓ ฟ๐ฎ๐ช๐บ๐ธโฝ๏ธ๐ข๏ธโ๏ธ๐งฐ๐ช |
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21st Jan 2017 8:54pm |
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| Landyash Member Since: 06 Feb 2011 Location: Nottinghamshire Posts: 286 
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just a quick update, I found the problem it was the horn fuse under the driver's seat.
shows you how much I use my horn didn't even know it wasn't working 
Cheers Ash |
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6th Mar 2017 7:15pm |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thought Iโd revive this rather than create a new post on the same issue.
Iโve replaced my headlights with LED units, the flash of the headlights now doesnโt work despite the side, dip, full beam, indicators, etc all working. Iโve checked the fuses and nothing amiss in either the under dash or under seat fuse box. Any ideas what else I could try? My defender hardtop is about as basic as basic comes. |
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5th Jul 2023 5:38pm |
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| LandRoverAnorak Member Since: 17 Jul 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 11324
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Unplug one of the lights and check if you're getting power when you operate the flash. Or plug one of your old lights back in. Assuming everything else is good then it's almost certainly the stalk and just bad luck that it's coincided with the light swap. Doing the above should confirm that, though. Darren
110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak "You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia |
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6th Jul 2023 8:17am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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Thanks LRA, I did think about the switch, and to be honest I dont know it ever worked as I don't really use it a lot.
I can confirm that the dash light doesn't come on either though. Will try and see if i get power to the lights, but the lack of dash light would imply not. |
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6th Jul 2023 8:35am |
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| the_lincs_landies Member Since: 29 May 2023 Location: Boston, Lincs Posts: 230
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So, I finally got around to buying a replacement switch and fitted it today, whilst fitting the new one i found the issue with my flashers... the bullet connector had come off of my terminal. Never mind though, as the retaining ring had split, and the previous owner had scotch blocked some wires onto the indicator wires of the connector, which went nowhere... so all is not lost. Now I just need to get to terms with the fact that the Lucas one I bought is bigger and "leans back" compared to original/wiper stalk. Obvious solution to this is to replace wiper stalk with Lucas too I guess. |
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11th Aug 2023 2:21pm |
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