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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Puma coolant
Im assuming that a new defender comes with antifreeze coolant from factory.....does anybody know what type is used and any recomendations for best type(brands ect) to use and optimum change intervals?
Post #377474 8th Dec 2014 10:49pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Yes will have antifreeze from new as long as nothing has been changed when any work don , but it should have been tested and topped up if it has

Comma red longlife is as good as any as a concentrate
or you can get ready mixed from halfords ,but expensive way to do it

should last few years before changing , best just test it each year before winter

if its red you need to add red NOT green or blue , red is most common now days
Post #377476 8th Dec 2014 11:02pm
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nitram17



Member Since: 08 Jun 2014
Location: newcastle
Posts: 2261

Thanks munch!
Post #377479 8th Dec 2014 11:24pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20263

United Kingdom 
Puma's are orange.
I've always used this: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-903-motul-inug...reeze.aspx
Meets the LR specs and good price, pre mixed so no rations needed.
Opie are also site sponsors.
Post #377482 8th Dec 2014 11:32pm
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ericvv



Member Since: 02 Jun 2011
Location: Near the Jet d'Eau
Posts: 5816

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SVX Station Wagon Santorini Black
According to the Puma Defender's maintenance schedule, the coolant has to be changed after 125.000 miles/200.000 KM only, irrespective of km/miles done per year. At the pace I am using the SVX now, this will be after the truck turns 25 years old or so... Shocked
As per below thread, this has been discussed here before, but there seems no clearcut opinion and definite answer to the matter of recommended changing intervals.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10487....p;start=15
The SVX now in its 7th year and by next spring 75k km, I intend to let my dealer replace the coolant then. Still have to ask them how difficult (timetaking??) job this is going to be.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation.
http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o
https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I
https://vimeo.com/201482507
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw
Post #377492 9th Dec 2014 5:24am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
custom90steve wrote:
Puma's are orange.
I've always used this: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-903-motul-inug...reeze.aspx
Meets the LR specs and good price, pre mixed so no rations needed.
Opie are also site sponsors.


same thing diffirent colour just don't mix with green or blue

comma red super longlife 5L £18 ish and your need one to change it for either 2.4 tdci or 2.2 tdci
A Mono Ethylene Glycol (MEG) based engine coolant / anti-freeze concentrate.  Suitable for petrol and diesel engines.  5 Year Longlife Protection.  Protects against freezing and overheating.  NAP (Nitrite, Phosphate and Amine), Silicate and Borax free.

motul 5L £25 and your need two to change it for tdci 2.4 or or buy one + few 1L bottles for tdci 2.2
Nitrite free / Amine free / Phosphate free / Borate free / Silicate free

MOTUL INUGEL OPTIMAL is a ready to use coolant / anti-freeze based on monoethyleneglycol, using organic additives (OAT).

except your paying more for 50% water with ready mixed ( but it is easier if your not sure , but not hard to mix anyway)

50/50 mix is generally ok for uk , -36 protection , for mixing concentrate ( easy just get to 5 litre cans pour 1/2 concentrate into one then top up both with water )

autodata state capacity
2.4 10L
2.2 8.2L
Post #377498 9th Dec 2014 6:46am
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Hi!

I just tried to drain the coolant of my 2.4 puma. I removed many hoses to change the thrmostat, but I didn't find any drain plug. Workshop manual talk about 10 liters of coolant but I drained around 4 liters. How to drain correctly the totality?



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge


I don't understand how to unplug these hoses.


Click image to enlarge


best regards
Post #581441 29th Nov 2016 9:46pm
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dorsetsmith



Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

his the removal tool for QUICK-RELEASE-CONNECTORS


eBay Item No. 161410303694
Post #581457 29th Nov 2016 10:24pm
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
Thanks

But I don't have it. Is it possible to remove them without this tool and without risk of damage?

best regards
Post #581459 29th Nov 2016 10:28pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20263

United Kingdom 
I'd be interested to know how to remove those best too.
Post #581471 29th Nov 2016 11:01pm
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RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
Simply push the blue tabs inwards and pull on the pipe at the same time. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..

Last edited by RED-DOT on 29th Nov 2016 11:32pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #581479 29th Nov 2016 11:27pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Squeeze the visible blue section 'in' with robust finger/fingernails and gritty determination, then pull the tube in the 'off' direction for that pipe. It can be done, even with nice and new ones like you have.

Get ready for the liquid, it'll come thin but fast - even without the drain switchy thingy being open, follow the highest* thinner pipes around the top of the engine to find it.

(* think about it, it'll make sense)

I forget the exact plumbing but the thermostat may or may not be restricting all the fluid from exiting too, Get ready to get blood on you or your (soon to be ex-) partner's knuckles managing the pipe clamps around that area.

If it's available locally to you, Havoline XLC is one and the same as the specified Texaco XLC.

It's not fun. Rolling with laughter Thumbs Up Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #581481 29th Nov 2016 11:29pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Oh, ha ha - I'm guessing maybe less gritty determination required using ^^^ method?

Laughing

Mine are covered in some kind of rust preventative since I bought it so I never got to fully investigate how they work... Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #581482 29th Nov 2016 11:40pm
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Okan



Member Since: 17 Oct 2016
Location: Geneva
Posts: 138

Switzerland 2009 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 SW Stornoway Grey
agentmulder wrote:


Get ready for the liquid, it'll come thin but fast - even without the drain switchy thingy being open, follow the highest* thinner pipes around the top of the engine to find it.

(* think about it, it'll make sense)



Hi! Understood for removing the two hoses but not understood about "the drain switchy thingy being open" Where is it? Do you have any pictures? Because At this time I allready removed the two bigger hoses and the thermostat so if I unplug the two smaller hoses all coolant should be drained or there is another thing to do?

best regards
Post #581485 29th Nov 2016 11:58pm
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RED-DOT



Member Since: 29 Jun 2009
Location: stirling
Posts: 2363

Scotland 
OK remove all the fuel cooler hoses and then the cap on the header tank then make sure the heater is on HOT. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
Post #581486 30th Nov 2016 12:02am
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