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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
Seized calipers, opinions please.
Hi all,

I have the front calipers off my 110 and have cleaned them up ready for new pistons as the old ones were quite rusty. One side two of the calipers popped out and the other side only one would move with compressed air. Is it going to be a case of plumbing them back up to the defender and using the hydraulic force to push them out? Even with the things split and a good set of mole grips being attached I cannot move the Censored . Also both top seals have fused to the pistons !
Post #579233 20th Nov 2016 6:16pm
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agentmulder



Member Since: 16 Apr 2016
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 1324

Kuwait 
Assuming new pads and/or rotor, you're now exposing the already worn seals to a inconsistent surface. (The rust you mention)

Recommended new seal and retainer kit and stainless pistons (or at least new replacements).

Some will suggest a new inter caliper seal also.

Some will suggest now that you've split your calipers that you have to bin them regardless. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants...
Post #579236 20th Nov 2016 6:23pm
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gcc130



Member Since: 05 Jun 2015
Location: Wiltshire
Posts: 742

I've just had to replace both ftront callipers on my 59 plate 50k 130. All but one piston were seized solid.
Post #579237 20th Nov 2016 6:25pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1785

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
Probably quickest to plumb back in, pack and clamp the free ones and push the stuck one out - watch out for the fluid though!!!

Zeus st/st pistons are the answer.
Post #579238 20th Nov 2016 6:26pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
oh Censored I already purchased bearmach pistons and seals! What do people think about splitting them? Personally I cannot see why it is such an issue. The seals are easily located when you put the housing back together and as long as everything it spotless and lots of threadlock gets used what can go wrong?
Post #579246 20th Nov 2016 6:42pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
Should I send back the standard kit and go for some stainless pistons?
Post #579248 20th Nov 2016 6:49pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Welkman wrote:
oh Censored I already purchased bearmach pistons and seals! What do people think about splitting them? Personally I cannot see why it is such an issue. The seals are easily located when you put the housing back together and as long as everything it spotless and lots of threadlock gets used what can go wrong?



Personally I wouldn't put them back together with the old seals, when they're initially assembled they are done in a clean environment but no special provision is made regarding cleanliness further then good enginèring practices. Good quality plated pistons such as AP are fine as they were quite likely to have been used initially. Stainless are good but I dont think the benefits align with the additional costs. I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #579251 20th Nov 2016 7:00pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
I am not sure what you mean by 'used initially' ?
Post #579253 20th Nov 2016 7:13pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1785

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
I don't know if the seal between the caliper halves is available?

I went for Zeus because the genuine AP ones fitted from the factory were rusted and flaked after 5 years.

I bought new genuine AP calipers, popped the pistons out, fitted the st/st ones and refitted the complete units to keep down time to a minimum
Post #579254 20th Nov 2016 7:16pm
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ickle



Member Since: 22 Jul 2010
Location: South Vendee
Posts: 1785

France 2008 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 CSW Alpine White
And don't forget a tub of the special red grease to assemble everything with
Post #579255 20th Nov 2016 7:18pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
To be honest the bores are a bit corroded in the first third of the depth before the sealing ring so I am very tempted to pick up a couple of new AP calipers from paddocks and to send the piston and seal kits back. Do they come plated with zinc? The old ones were in a right mess when I removed them so some kind of paint or plating would be good to prevent the build up of rust.
Post #579261 20th Nov 2016 7:33pm
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shaggydog



Member Since: 12 Aug 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 3347

United Kingdom 1991 Defender 110 200 Tdi USW Arles Blue
I recently changed my front callipers as a set.

I reckoned that you could buy a pair of callipers for under £100 and you just unbolt the old ones, put on the new ones and off you go.

My originals lasted 24 years before being beyond repair, even if mine only last 5 years £20 a year is fine by me.

Plus they have a warranty and no risk of me putting the seals in wrong and having to wait another 3-5 working days for new parts to arrive.

Remember, that callipers corrode on the inside too. Its really not worth the hassle with such a safety critical part. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197

Self confessed mileage hunter Very Happy
Post #579264 20th Nov 2016 7:42pm
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Thon



Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

United Kingdom 
Rickydodah wrote:
Welkman wrote:
oh Censored I already purchased bearmach pistons and seals! What do people think about splitting them? Personally I cannot see why it is such an issue. The seals are easily located when you put the housing back together and as long as everything it spotless and lots of threadlock gets used what can go wrong?



Personally I wouldn't put them back together with the old seals, when they're initially assembled they are done in a clean environment but no special provision is made regarding cleanliness further then good enginèring practices. Good quality plated pistons such as AP are fine as they were quite likely to have been used initially. Stainless are good but I dont think the benefits align with the additional costs.


Stainless pistons are not expensive. I believe Zeus are a couple of pounds each more than conventional plated original equipment parts, or at least they were this Spring when mine were done. The additional cost is more than covered by the corrosion resistance in my view, having come across a gazillion rotten plated pistons in the various vehicles i've owned over the years.

Just my $0.02 Thumbs Up
Post #579267 20th Nov 2016 7:47pm
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Welkman



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Essex colchester
Posts: 329

United Kingdom 
I have the AP ones at £100 each on paddocks. Any ideas on a cheaper alternative? I really dont want to use britpart for the brakes !
Post #579269 20th Nov 2016 7:48pm
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Rickydodah



Member Since: 14 Jul 2014
Location: East Sussex
Posts: 1091

Welkman wrote:
I am not sure what you mean by 'used initially' ?


As original equipment i.e. Girling I started with nothing and still have most of it left!
Post #579270 20th Nov 2016 7:50pm
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