 | Home > In Car Electronics > Connectors for spots/work lights |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17718   
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Econoseal or Superseal would do nicely. There are however many alternatives.
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13th Oct 2016 7:17pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749
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^^^^ As above, although Econoseal are standard on a Puma I think I prefer Superseals.
They are just nicer in my opinion, especially to remove. What load would the lights be? Are they LED or Incandescent? WeWillWinπ¬π§πΊπΈ β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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13th Oct 2016 7:40pm |
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| TechnoTurkey Member Since: 25 Jul 2016 Location: Worcestershire Posts: 88 
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I would be an LED worklamp at the back and a couple of halogen spots on the front.
I'm contemplating removing the work lamp and replacing it with a 12" LED light bar above the rear washer. The spots on the rack are a bit past their best so they are also probably going to be replaced with a couple of LED spots. My roo's on the A bar do most of the hard work anyway! |
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14th Oct 2016 11:23am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6662 
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Tyco/AMP Superseal. Try and get genuine ones, there are a lot of copies on eBay now
  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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14th Oct 2016 11:38am |
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| dantastic Member Since: 04 May 2010 Location: London Posts: 367
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What would you use for a 42" light bar? Those econoseal/superseal connectors don't look like they can take that high amp.
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19th Oct 2016 8:55am |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6662
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What's the current?
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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19th Oct 2016 9:26am |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238 
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Econoseal are rated at 10amp continuous and Superseal at 8amp.
That should allow 120W or 96W respectively. 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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19th Oct 2016 9:38am |
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| Cold_n_Wet Member Since: 15 Oct 2012 Location: Bergen Posts: 247 
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Lazer supply Deutch on the big bars and superseal.
On higher current installation I use delphi connectors. No problems on LF 170's. Glen "Rafiki" 2007 110 STW - Rolling rebuild. |
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19th Oct 2016 2:52pm |
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| dantastic Member Since: 04 May 2010 Location: London Posts: 367
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The light bar is 240W. I'd like a bit of safety margin as well so let's say 30A.
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19th Oct 2016 3:59pm |
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| shanecl Member Since: 20 Mar 2013 Location: Louth Posts: 523  
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just bought 10 of the TE AMPSEAL plugs for sounds like the same spots off Radionics today 30 euro all in
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19th Oct 2016 4:08pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238
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I think 30A is a bit over the top, 240W draws 20A at 12v, but with the engine running you drop down to 16.5A (assuming 14.4V). Personally I would be quite happy with a contact rated at 20A continuous as you would be unlikely to have it on without engine running.
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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19th Oct 2016 4:43pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749
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If it's high current I'd use Pre insulted spade terminals and tape it up with a Quality electrical tape.
There is no specific need for removability to a great extent as you won't be removing it on and off often. And of course it'll be fused too. WeWillWinπ¬π§πΊπΈ β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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19th Oct 2016 5:42pm |
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| rallysteve Member Since: 10 Feb 2014 Location: Cumbria Posts: 2238
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Personally I steer away from pre insulated terminals wherever possible. The crimping method is very crude and have seen so many pull off the wire before the terminal disconnects. Have also seen pre insulated spades melted due to resistance from water ingress and corrosion. Any connector on the outside of a vehicle should use sealed connector housings. If you don't have to correct crimper then there is the possibility to use tinned terminals, crimp crudely with needle nose pliers and then solder.
Don't get me started on scotch locks 
Steve 02' 110 TD5 Double Cab Rebuild Thread |
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19th Oct 2016 9:42pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749
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Normally I'd agree, but they've suited me for over 6 trouble free years.
Lower current I'd use Superseals or Econoseals though. But in all honesty, that is how my spots have been wired on the front exposed and never had a single issue at all. 
Pity there isn't a higher capacity version of connectors like the above, but most seem Tom not be waterproof which is their downfall! WeWillWinπ¬π§πΊπΈ β½οΈπ’οΈβοΈπ§°πͺ |
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19th Oct 2016 9:56pm |
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