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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Should I have a new clutch when the crank seal is replaced?
My 15000 mile 2014 2.2 110 van is going in for a few warranty items shortly. Amongst them is what I assume will be a new rear crank seal as I've got an oil leak from the bell housing to gearbox joint.

I asked the dealer today if I could have a new clutch assembly in (at my expense) while the gearbox was out of the way as it seems daft to have the old one re-fitted when I've the chance for a new one. They said the new clutch will be "£300 - 400".

That seems an outrageous price for a new clutch to me, especially when a new AP (OEM) one on eBay is about £130.

Should I just have the old clutch refitted, and is there anything else I should ask for while it's out (I'm thinking of the famous shaft that wrecks itself, although I'll admit I can't recall which one it is).

And is it likely the oil leak will have contaminated the clutch anyway, so necessitating it being replaced under warranty? I've not noticed any problems with it so far.

Thanks as always for any help.
Post #567152 27th Sep 2016 8:19pm
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milesr3



Member Since: 12 Feb 2013
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 873

2016 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Keswick Green
If they are going to play silly Censored , then what's stopping you from providing them with a genuine replacement clutch at your cost?

I'd try to get them to replace it though. Some oil is going to find its way onto the clutch, even if it's not enough to cause an immediate problem.
Post #567156 27th Sep 2016 8:29pm
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jst



Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8064

 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey
if the clutch plate is contaminated they should do it under warranty anyway as you say.

at 15k miles i wouldnt bother with new clutch. new oil seal may go again (? why did it go first time, not a common theme i am aware of)

assuming oil leak is fixed i would refit the old clutch then look to have the lot out at around 60k and check the intermediate shaft at that stage too.

they may not split the T and g box so looking at intermediate shaft this time around may costalota.

could always ask them to fit a supplied clutch kit. Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop
Post #567158 27th Sep 2016 8:32pm
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nosnibod



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 370

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Bronze Green
When I needed a new rear crank seal at 24,000 miles a new clutch was fitted, as well a a new intermediate shaft as part of the warranty claim. No quibble at all.

Tip: make sure the dealer reads the latest crank seal bulletin from LR. My local dealer didn't and it leaked again before they handed it back, so they did it again and added extra sealant as per the bulletin. Dave
Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi
Post #567168 27th Sep 2016 9:13pm
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Joe the Plumber



Member Since: 18 Dec 2013
Location: Midlands
Posts: 907

2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 HT Fuji White
Thanks folks. I'm dropping it off on Saturday so I'll make sure to make them aware of the various points you've raised.

Can I ask nosnibod, did they do that and just tell you, or did you have to ask for it, and how long ago was that please?
Post #567210 28th Sep 2016 5:37am
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nosnibod



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 370

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Bronze Green
I made sure by getting it all agreed beforehand with their lead techie and written down on the job card.

I also made sure afterwards and they showed me the warranty claim and costs they would be making back to JLR. Over £3000 Shocked

It would be nice to say the job was completed 100% but the forgot the final clutch master cylinder push rod adjustment. Losing the clutch a thousand miles from home was not very funny. Fortunately I had Internet access and the workshop manual already downloaded on my phone and was able to diagnose and fix it myself. They'd left the two locknuts completely loose... Rolling Eyes Dave
Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi
Post #567213 28th Sep 2016 6:24am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17450

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
^^ I fail to see why they even touched the master cylinder pushrod nuts if they were only fitting a rear crank seal and clutch. it shouldn't have needed adjusting.

At least you were able to sort out the problem though.
Post #567239 28th Sep 2016 8:18am
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nosnibod



Member Since: 15 Aug 2007
Location: West Midlands
Posts: 370

United Kingdom 1998 Defender 110 300 Tdi SW Bronze Green
Me neither... But the pedal cover screws had witness marks where they'd been in there. Not conclusive, but a very great coincidence and the clutch was fine before the work.

The problem I had was that whilst I had two 13mm spanners, it needs one with a small overall size to fit into the confines of the forked trunnion. I didn't have one small enough and could only get enough purchase to lightly nip it up. Fortunately I had a small bottle of strong threadlock so used that as well. I went to do the job properly when we got home and found the threadlock still doing its job so left it alone. It's been fine for the last 6000 miles... Dave
Green Goddess - 1998 Defender 110 300tdi
Post #567261 28th Sep 2016 9:22am
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