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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 356

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Front light guard removal
Morning,

Started doing some prep work for fitting a new bumper on a MY12 110. In order to get to the bumper bolts I need to take off the grill and to do that I had to remove the Landrover front lamp guards (fitted before I bought the Defender and not to my taste).

Passenger side one came off no problem, however on the other one of the top 2 rivenuts was loose in the wing so with the bolt seized in the rivenut it just spun Big Cry . I decided the eaiest way forward was to drill out the bolt head which was fine and got the lamp guard off. Appreciating that this might not have been the best option now that I have the remains of a bolt to deal with.


Click image to enlarge


Having stepped back and looked at it I much prefer the look without the lamp guards so I'm thinking I'll leave them off. I have two minor issues that I'm hoping someone might be able to help with:

1. Any thoughts on how I get the remains of the bolt out the spinning Rivenut?



Click image to enlarge



2. Short of replacing the panels or welding up and respraying is there any easy way in the short term (next couple of years) to make the remaining rivenuts look a bit tidier? I was mulling over a couple of black anodised pan head bolts.

Thanks

Keith Keith
Post #559677 29th Aug 2016 8:02am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Morning Keith,

It has been so long since I have had my light out that I cannot recall. I would start by removing the sidelight and indicator then taking off the silver lighting surround panel and whipping out the front light. This may afford you enough access to perhaps get a Dremmel in there with a cutting disk to cut the rear of the rivnut remains off? Or (it is difficult to tell if there is enough bolt shank left?) get a pair of mole grips on the rear of the rivnut and another pair on the remains of the bolt and undo it? Two pan head bolts is your best option or perhaps a pair of rubber grommet blanks to mask the holes left behind? If you do go down the Dremmel route be careful of overheating which would exacerbate paint damage etc. on the area. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!


Last edited by K9F on 29th Aug 2016 8:36am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #559692 29th Aug 2016 8:32am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
To get the bolt out, you'll need to get access to the rear of the rivnut and grip it with something.

To make a neat job of it without the light guards, I'd be tempted to remove all of the rivnuts, tidy up the holes and put in some blind rubber grommets. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #559693 29th Aug 2016 8:34am
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Keith5



Member Since: 27 May 2016
Location: Scotland
Posts: 356

United Kingdom 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Santorini Black
Would dropping the wheel arch inner down give enough access to get to this area? How big a job would that be?

I had the other headlight out yesterday which was easy enough so may try that. Just have to resist the temptation to replace the sidelights and indicators with LEDs while I've got them off....

Keith Keith
Post #559696 29th Aug 2016 8:39am
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Grouse



Member Since: 16 Apr 2012
Location: on the hill
Posts: 521

Take the headlight out, reach in and grab the back of the rivnut with mole grips to stop it turning and continue to drill them out. It's the easiest way trust me without causing any panel damage. Then if it was me I would get some large 1/4" pop rivets with a washer on the back and use these to block off the holes.

The rivnuts are probably 8mm, the 1/4" rivets will cover the hole with the flange, but need a washer behind as the holes are slightly larger. The pop rivets are in many defender panels anyway so won't look too much out of place.
Post #559750 29th Aug 2016 4:13pm
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