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K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

2016 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red

Start-Up Electrical Issues - 16MY 110XS SW

A long story short I'm having a series of electrical issues I'd like some advice and clarification on before LR take the car this morning / afternoon.

A few weeks after picking up the car I installed a battery isolator around the negative as a form of layer security. Before this, I was having issues with the central locking system in that when I locked the doors from inside the car (pushing the door lock) I then couldn't open the rear LHS passenger door although all other doors were fine!

Since then, the same door (LHS rear passenger) has developed a long and drawn out electrical whine whenever you use unlock the doors, both with the fob and manually from inside the car. On top of this - and its becoming increasingly common - when I get in the car, insert the isolator key and go to start the car one of three different things will happen.

1. The car starts with no problems.
2. The car starts but only after sounding the alarm for a second and occasionally resetting the instrument panel.
3. The car starts but only after 'ticking' like a flat battery and resetting the instrument panel.

Although I appreciate its difficult to conclusively say but... is the central locking issue the likely cause my other issues? With my limited knowledge and Google research, its suggested that it could be an actuator / solenoid issue within the door card which is causing a bad connection (bad earth / live) which is then causing the car to behave the way it is.....

Any suggestions, thoughts or ideas?

4th Aug 2016 6:57am

dorsetsmith

Member Since: 30 Oct 2011
Location: South West
Posts: 4554

back to LRJ but you mod elect system check all earth from battery to your mod down to chassis and transfer box

do you have away of checking voltage at battery ?

Last edited by dorsetsmith on 4th Aug 2016 7:15am. Edited 1 time in total

4th Aug 2016 7:01am

K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

Yea they're coming to collect it this morning

I just hope they don't try and fob me off by saying that the isolator is causing the issues....

4th Aug 2016 7:03am

Cupboard

Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey

You could always temporarily remove the isolator.

4th Aug 2016 8:25am

Thon

Member Since: 22 Nov 2015
Location: Salisbury Plain
Posts: 696

If I understand correctly, there was a central locking problem before you installed the isolator, and since fitting it you are getting new problems.
If it were mine I would remove the isolator from the circuit and then it cannot be blamed for any of the problems,and LR will have a standard car to sort out.
Once they have sorted the problems you can then re-connect the isolator.

4th Aug 2016 9:05am

K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

Yeah, thats right.... the issue was before I put in the isolator and got worse after they were 'supposedly' fixing it last time it was in!

Either way I removed the necessary wiring for the isolator and set it back to factory. The whining noise still happened and the other start up issues were intermittent anyway.... luckily the locking mechanism failed whilst the driver was there. Downside... he's only the bodyshop driver and not the mechanic who'll be trying to fix it!

4th Aug 2016 2:15pm

bear100

Member Since: 22 Mar 2010
Location: South Wales
Posts: 1917

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Santorini Black

quite possible you have two faults, check the wiring that goes through the door (inside the rubber boot) these always break and fail, i should imagine you have a frayed cable.

with the isolator is it rated for the current? sound like it faulty, if you can try a set of jump leads across the terminals (if they can be exposed) 2016 Range Rover Autobiography 4.4 TDV8
2010 110 XS Utility 2.4TDCI
2010 Range Rover Sport TDV8 (gone)
2007 Discovery HSE TDV6 (gone)
1993 110 csw 200 tdi (gone)
1994 90 HT 300 tdi (gone)
1994 discovery 300tdi (gone)
90 hybrid 3.5 v8 (gone)
Range rover bobtail 3.5 v8 (gone)

4th Aug 2016 2:47pm

K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

I disconnected the isolator before they came to collect the car so its gone back to the factory standard.

When it comes back - assuming they've fixed the door mechanism - I'll double check the isolator before I reactivate the system... where would I be able to check the current capacity?

5th Aug 2016 6:08am

Scoobeenut

Member Since: 04 Mar 2015
Location: West London
Posts: 310

2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Santorini Black

So when you park up you switch the battery isolator? Doesn't this kill the supply to the 10as alarm system/BBUS?

5th Aug 2016 6:16am

K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

It's wired around the negative terminal with a 20amp fuse on the OFF so its enough to allow the alarm, immobiliser and the central locking to continue to work but not enough to allow the car to start (blows the fuse, cuts the electrical feed and sounds the alarm etc....)

5th Aug 2016 6:18am

K.M

Member Since: 28 Apr 2016
Location: Salisbury
Posts: 300

Right, so she has returned from LR having had a new actuator installed in the door to fix the locking issue.

As soon as I got her back I reinstalled the isolator and on first crank.... the alarm blipped.... With blissful ignorance I put it down to a one-off and thought nothing more of it. After a week of driving around I thought I'd cracked it as it started perfectly each time.... but now its back to normal and the alarm blip is becoming all too common.

Time to look at the isolator me thinks!

I cannot remember the mm2 of the cable used so I'll have a look late in the week and - if it isn't already - I'll replace with 35mm2 (the same as the standard cable). I've had a quick search and apparently the maximum A draw on crank can be up to 600A with the common start up been around 300A... the isolator is rated at 500A peak for 5 seconds.

What would cause a >500A draw?

Is there anything else I should be looking in to?

FYI - the isolator is wired around the negative, not the positive.

21st Aug 2016 7:10pm

couplands

Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

I think with the isolator they'll be a momentary disconnect as you turn it, thus causing the alarm to think the power has been cut. Not sure how you get around this....

Cheers

Simon

21st Aug 2016 11:12pm

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