 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > 2.2 fuel filter change again. |
 
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| Fish13 Member Since: 17 May 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 71   
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I pre-filled the new one and stood it upright in the open box, which held it nicely so I could transfer quickly. Other than that it was fine.
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28th May 2016 9:25pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123  
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I also pre filled mine with fresh filtered diesel out a jerry can through a strainer, do not fill new filter from the old one like many people do
As said above, fill it and stand it up right in its box, unscrew old one, quickly screw new one on, turn ingition on and off a few times to get the in tank pump to pump some fuel, then start and i held revs at about 1500 for about 30 seconds to alleviate any air in the system!  |
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29th May 2016 3:23am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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Did mine a few weeks ago - filled it up, put it in.
Worked a charm. Had another thread where I was trying to determine where the primers fit in to the system - logic was that they needed to be post the transfer pump or you're just introducing the potential for crud in the lines from the primer itself - no reply there. Meanwhile I asked x2 local independents how they do it: "we fill it up, and then we put it in". (x2) While the (real) chance of injector failure is outstanding, I think it's an acceptable risk - it's the internet that has grabbed hold of it for some reason. Similar to how as soon as someone mentions a hi-lift jack you'll get the ongoing discussion regarding their safety considerations. (cue discussion re. hi-lift safety considerations...  ) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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29th May 2016 3:53am |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1315 
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Thanks everyone. Pre filling it is then with clean fuel.
Never changed one of these twist type filters. Is it obvious when it is located correctly? Is there any need for a filter type strap to tighten it? Cheers. |
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29th May 2016 5:30am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Obvious in my case yes.
No need for a strap wrench to tighten no, in fact, that would be discouraged. Can make one with a multi-grip and bicycle inner tube if you need something to get the old one off though  Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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29th May 2016 5:52am |
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| Fish13 Member Since: 17 May 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 71
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Was pretty obvious when it was located properly. I just did hand tight, no strap wrench required.
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29th May 2016 8:08am |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1315
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Got round to changing it today as part of a full service.
No drama whatsoever. I did fill the new one up with diesel, filtered through two layers of kitchen roll. The old one undid by hand and the new one was a doddle to fit. I didn't hear any click though, but I am sure it is properly seated as I couldn't rotate it any further and the images printed on the filter are in the same position as the old one before I removed it. Started up the engine and let it run for a minute or so at 2000rpm. No coughs or splutters so I assume all is well. I put some copperslip grease on the catch that holds the filter cover in place as it looked quite rusty. |
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5th Jun 2016 1:55pm |
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| Fish13 Member Since: 17 May 2015 Location: Aberdeenshire Posts: 71
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5th Jun 2016 7:24pm |
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| lohr500 Member Since: 14 Sep 2014 Location: Skipton Posts: 1315
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Yes, very satisfying. After being quoted £695 for the year 4 B service ( with a £100 discount) I decided to do the job myself and to change all the oils which is going beyond the LR schedule.
Only covered 14K from new, so perhaps overkill to change all the oils, but at least I know they will all be to the correct level. I ordered a filter kit from Dan at Duckworth's as I wanted to keep using OE parts ( I know I could have saved by buying quality equivalents. Perhaps next time). I've ordered engine, gearbox & transfer box oil from Opie. It flew though it's MOT on Friday with no advisories. Today I did the front & rear diff oils ( using EP 90 as I still have half a 25 Litre drum of Castrol EP90 from Series days) . I know it should really be 75W90 EP gear oil, but as I'll be changing annually, I am sure it will be OK. Fuel and air filters changed and greased the rear prop UJs. Front UJs have no grease nipples. All wheels off to check out the brake pads and to give the wheels a good clean on the inner rims. Also popped off the plastic drive flange covers to check on last year's spline greasing. Once the oils arrive from Opie, it will be engine, main gearbox & transfer box next weekend. Need to figure out what's involved in changing the brake fluid as I have never dabbled with ABS. I'm sure a search on Def2 will give me the answers. I'm tempted to put half a sachet of swivel housing grease into each side as well. The front diff oil was very black in colour and I suspect some of the swivel grease may have crept through into the axle case. I read a post saying the grease should be around half way up the housing so I will check this first. Even with OE filters, all the oils and whatever brake fluid I need, I think it will have cost less than £160 which is a great saving on the quote from Farnell's. They do want £30 to do the corrosion inspection though. Whilst I object to this, I think it is worth getting it done in case any bodywork issues arise in the next 2 years. |
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5th Jun 2016 7:43pm |
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