 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma 2.4L 110 Defender - interior lights stay on in 'Auto' |
 
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971   
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Even if you leave the doors open, the 10AS alarm unit should still turn the lights off after ten minutes.
The lights have a permanent live feed to one side and the little switch on them switches the other side to permanent ground (on), not connected (off) and the 10AS (auto). I would say there is probably something wrong with the 10AS or the wiring from the lights to it. |
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30th Apr 2016 8:13am |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060  
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As previously said, the interior lights have a fused constant 12V supply and are switched through earth. If they donīt switch off in "auto" mode, then you have stray earth connection.
Could be one of the switches, but could also be in the wiring on the way up to the lights. If both lights are staying on, it isnīt at the lights themselves. Check each of the switches first of all. Water or the resulting crrosion is often the cause. A chafed wire is more often the cause of a stray earth. 1998 Tdi 90 SW, 2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs, Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons |
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30th Apr 2016 1:13pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324 
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OK, cool, thanks for the tips.
I'll have a look on my next 'defender-in-bits' day (weekly freq) Assuming I can access the 10AS (passenger side behind the speaker?) - are there connections there that I can test continuity with earth to fault find from that end? Is it a bad idea playing around with the alarm unit though? I don't want it to think I'm stealing it |
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30th Apr 2016 8:13pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Pulled out about 10m of wire from various uninstalled accessories today (flood lights, reverse camera and something I'm not sure...)
Anyhoo... FIXED aaaand, double bonus - the light dip motors are now working too! (they were far down the list of things to look in to) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th May 2016 8:04am |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1645 
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FYI, when I fitted my LED interior lights, they also stayed 'dim' when they finally 'turn off' in 'auto'.
But my normal bulb did not. Obviously a very small residual current still present... YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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9th May 2016 6:46pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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Interesting, I wonder how many Ah that stray current eats away over long term storage?
Meanwhile, this interior lights thing is a blast: They switch on when I unlock the car remotely! so cool ! And wait... 'plip' - 'woohoo! they switch off when I lock it too!' Ą Futuristic ! Level-🆙 Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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9th May 2016 8:42pm |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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So the fault came back for 10s when I went over a speed bump, then again last night when I closed the drivers door.
I did a full check of the door switches, cleaned them out too and double checked both continuity and function. Even probed the 10AS pins and front lamp in the following states:  Click image to enlarge I dont even want to think about what that I means as I now I suspect it's in the wiring for the rear light as after opening it up to have a look it worked again 
It was very clean in there, but I do note that it has stopped/started working in the following situations: > Door slam > Speed Bump > Me pulling out cables that run around that area > Me checking the rear lamp itself i.e. I think the door is a red herring, it was the vibration from the door that caused whatever to happen to happen. Anyways, fingers crossed I dont have to pull the damn ceiling trim out 
Also, so a BONUS DISCOVERY: I found pin26 of the 10AS was just a free cable hanging out there, a bit of research shows that it is the aerial for the key fob. I soldered on an extension and ran it up the A-Pillar. I can now arm and disarm the car from inside the house! Very much recommend this. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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13th May 2016 5:29am |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060
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 Very Defender attitude There! You and your 110 have a long future together 1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTīs, Recaro CSīs, anorak, wellingtons |
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13th May 2016 6:19am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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ugh, back to fault AGAIN...
Nought caused it but me simply disarming the vehicle - switched on as it should, but stayed on. So I'm going to check the rear lamp again, but otherwise it's possible there is a spurious connection somewhere in the 10AS. Question: can the 10AS be removed without the alarm tripping? (I know it's going to be a pain in the rear to actually get the thing out anyway, but I'll 3D print a stubby torx just for the job) Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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15th May 2016 2:32am |
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| RED-DOT Member Since: 29 Jun 2009 Location: stirling Posts: 2363 
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The wiring loom that runs inside the rubber conduits between the body and doors break inside causing all sorts of gremlins. Give them a good check and don't just think they are OK because on any Defender over 5 years they wont be. 2008 RS4 gone, 123d M Sport, and a Puma 90 XS..
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15th May 2016 7:16am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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The wiring for the interior lights runs from the 10as up the drivers side pillar behind the plastic trim and across the roof.
So not a huge job to remove headlining and follow cables all the way |
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15th May 2016 8:02am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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I dont have central locking or power windows so no loom to the doors (so much easier installing a new door hinge btw...
)
Hrrrm, so one of the times the fault went away was after I removed a bunch of leftover accessory wire that ran up along next to that loom in the A-Pillar - I assumed it was for the alarm sensor, but it is quite thick - interesting. Maybe I wont have to touch the 10AS after all... Man, I'm so fired up to solve this one! I really want to find the actual culprit. Not near my vehicle at the moment or I'd check but what is the ceiling trim like to remove? And in case I haven't said it: thanks for all the input chaps, much appreciated. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... Last edited by agentmulder on 15th May 2016 8:37am. Edited 2 times in total |
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15th May 2016 8:24am |
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| Go Beyond Member Since: 30 Jan 2012 Location: Headcorn, Kent Posts: 6678
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Its only fir tree clips and a bit of wiggling
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15th May 2016 8:26am |
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| agentmulder Member Since: 16 Apr 2016 Location: Outer Space Posts: 1324
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OK, good to know.
Seems like every panel has a different system, some with hidden clips that dont like the er, 'direct' approach (door cards cough cough). Fir tree are easy enough to both spot and deal with nicely. Solved the bowel problem, working on the consonants... |
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15th May 2016 8:34am |
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