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Motoberg



Member Since: 01 Oct 2015
Location: Aberdeen
Posts: 104

United Kingdom 
rear strip between tub and windows rusting

Click image to enlarge


As per the title, is this an easy fix or does the roof etc have to come off to replace or repair it properly ?
See the orange arrows in the photo

Cheers
Post #525279 19th Apr 2016 12:47pm
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CDN38



Member Since: 14 Nov 2014
Location: Courtenay, BC
Posts: 729

Canada 2000 Defender 110 Td5 SW Bonatti Grey
Unfortunately it's not an easy fix to do properly. You could try to fix it in place, it may look nice for a month or two, then it will come back, guaranteed.

Solution is the roof and side panels come off, then remove the capping, repair and re-install. Best bet if you are thinking of the future is to galvanize it, along with the rear capping. I'm a little OCD when it comes to dealing with rust, I like to deal with it one time and know it's not going to come back. it's a Landrover thing...

my renovation thread:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40792.html
Post #525323 19th Apr 2016 4:06pm
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Zagato
Site Supporter


Member Since: 08 Jan 2011
Location: Billingshurst West Sussex
Posts: 5012

United Kingdom 
Yes bare metal underneath Rolling Eyes Roof off for a proper job. Shame to think of the thousands of Defenders running around that have no protection. Easily avoided with a spray of ACF-50 underneath, same goes with your rivets that you can actually see in your picture, spray with ACF-50 a few times a year plus your rear crossmember etc etc the list goes on... Look at the corrosion prevention guide link below to avoid costly future work, equally important if not more so than your chassis protection....

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic10467.html
Post #526149 23rd Apr 2016 9:27am
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alwoodley72



Member Since: 14 Mar 2010
Location: salisbury, wilts
Posts: 724

England 2008 Defender 130 Puma 2.4 HCPU Alaska White
You don't have to take the roof off.. The Landy is just big Meccano, basically loosen the headlining, undo the 10 mm bolts along the roof to side panel, plus a couple more over the rear passenger door, pop up roof, then undo the 13 mm nuts just above the capping(3). Disconnect seat belt anchor point (17mm) then you can pop the side panel out. Yaks an hour first time, 15 minutes second time!! Then drill out rivets that hold the cap on and lever them off, replace with fully painted ones ( shocking!) re-rivet and to quote the Haynes book of lies, refitting is a reversal of that... Draught excluder seals work just as well as any overpriced L/R part, I tiger seal the joints for belt and braces. It is a satisfying job to do.

Cheers Alex 98 300 tdi 90 project
94 Range Rover vogue 4.2 lse
79 911 sc
08 130 double cab utility
Post #526177 23rd Apr 2016 12:37pm
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Scotm



Member Since: 28 Feb 2014
Location: Aberdeenshire
Posts: 666

Scotland 2012 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Orkney Grey
Here is a link to loads of info on it from when I changed mine on my previous defender. I just did one at a time, with about 18months in between.....

http://forum.landrovernet.com/showthread.p...indow-trim

And a picture....



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Post #526292 23rd Apr 2016 8:07pm
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steve_c3



Member Since: 30 Apr 2015
Location: Hants
Posts: 173

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 SW Epsom Green
Not an easy job but not horrendous. Did mine a couple of months ago. Agree with cdn38 though, I got galvanised replacements from YRM. Managed to do mine with out removing the roof and the ones over the windscreen only needed loosening. A few pics below...



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge



Click image to enlarge
 2002 Defender 110 CSW TD5
Post #526326 23rd Apr 2016 11:17pm
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