DEFENDER2.NET - View topic - Rear stub axles

↓ Advertise on Defender2 ↓

Home · FAQ · New Posts · My Posts · PMs · Search · Members · Map · Calendar · Profile · Donate · Register · Log In

Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Rear stub axles - Best way to refurb?

Page 1 of 1

Print this entire topic ·

Cetane

Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 171

2010 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Galway Green

Rear stub axles - Best way to refurb?

I need to refit my rear stub axles, but they appear to have rusted. Normally I'd replace anything rusted. They are a bit expensive from LR and I tend to avoid cheap aftermarket. That leaves fettling the existing ones. Does anyone know why I couldn't just put them in a lathe and face them off again? As far as I can figure out it would only mean the "locking ring" would sit a little further inboard.

As usual photos attached.

Click image to enlarge

Click image to enlarge

Cheers
Cetane

Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated

8th Apr 2016 5:31pm

Cetane

Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 171

Another question... Does anyone use a bearing retainer like Loctite 641 on the wheel bearings? It looks like they have spun on the shaft.

8th Apr 2016 5:47pm

sharkey964

Member Since: 05 Oct 2014
Location: On a muddy track
Posts: 574

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black

Hi Cetane
They look knackered to me.

The after market ones are OK,and pretty cheap,I'd just throw em away & replace them.

Marc

8th Apr 2016 6:08pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2647

If the bearings have spun then the stub axle is scrap anyway.

I'd replace them. Aftermarket ones have been known to be the wrong size, just saying...

8th Apr 2016 6:15pm

jst

Member Since: 14 Jan 2008
Location: Taunton
Posts: 8034

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Stornoway Grey

personally looking at those pictures i would replace it, bearings looked to have spun, plus rear oil seal seat doesnt look great Cheers

James
110 2012 XS Utility
130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper
90 2010 Hardtop
90 M57 1988 Hardtop

8th Apr 2016 7:01pm

Cetane

Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 171

Bloody Landies! I think list price for Gen parts was about £80 ex VAT a piece.

Any answers on the Loctite?

8th Apr 2016 7:58pm

Retroanaconda

Member Since: 04 Jan 2012
Location: Scotland
Posts: 2647

Loctite shouldn't be necessary.

£80 each isn't too bad when you think how long they will last. You're looking at 20 years plus if looked after.

8th Apr 2016 8:04pm

Cetane

Member Since: 27 Nov 2012
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 171

These did 6years 36k Mi.
Ive owned the it from 2 and 14k Mi.

It's had an easy life with me believe it or not.

I think the bits where the bearings have run can be cleaned up. All 4 stubs look the same with 2 witness marks on each shaft. The backs are in good fettle behind the paper gasket and oil seal.

641 isn't particularly strong (1/5th the grip of "270" green thread lock from memory) it just stops them spinning. We used to use it on some of our bearings as belt and braces.

This combined with the gubbed caliper pistons has particularly annoyed me. Why after 60 something years did they design turd like this?

8th Apr 2016 8:21pm

Page 1 of 1

All times are GMT

Jump to

< Previous Topic | Next Topic >

Posting Rules

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum