 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > 2008 110 shocker change planned. |
 
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20479  
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Rear top mounts are bolts, be careful to take note of washer orientation.
Front turrets you'd be best of scarifying the shocks by cutting off, especially if replacing. |
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2nd Apr 2016 8:13pm |
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| williamthedog Member Since: 29 Dec 2012 Location: south wales Posts: 3441 
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Don't know about the rear shocks on a 110, on a 90 nuts top and bottom.
Yes you can still pull the front shock out through the inner wing with the turret. |
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2nd Apr 2016 8:14pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20479
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I use a large Boa for tightening rather than mile grips as it doesn't cause damage.
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2nd Apr 2016 8:27pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831 
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Well I have managed to change the steering damper and the two rear dampers from a full kit of 5 Bilstein shocks obtained from Alive tuning.
The steering damper was a breeze, the two rears put up a bit of a fight both taking off and installing the new set. I have never in 30 odd years had to take a club hammer to the bottom of a shocker to free it from the rubber bushes to get them free of the cup and I had to drift the new ones in from the bottom. A niece touch from Bilstein though is that the supply a new outer washer and unlock nut for the top hanger. I'm leaving the fronts till I recover and have a good look at how to remove the plastic cover on top of the turret. Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to  us off.
Richard |
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3rd Apr 2016 6:36pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831
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Why use a Boa, I just held the damper in my hand while I torqued it up to 27 NM Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to us off.
Richard |
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3rd Apr 2016 6:38pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20479
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Sorry, I mean removing or changing. I.e. If you changed bushes.
The plastic cover screws are a pain, when I did mine I cleaned the threads and where there isn't access to the head carefully undo them via the thread with some pliers. That's what I did, and then when re-fitting fit them from the other way so you can access from under the arch. IIRC, it's only the drivers side that you can't access the head. |
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3rd Apr 2016 6:48pm |
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| ARC99 Member Since: 19 Feb 2013 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1831
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I can see one dreaded rusty self tapper on the driver side, I can feel the passenger side one but didn't go looking.
Easy way I found if changing the shockers is a large pair of Stilsons and a rattle gun for taking them off. More of an engineering approach when putting the new one on. Don't make old people mad. We don't like being old in the first place, so it doesn't take much to us off.
Richard |
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3rd Apr 2016 7:24pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20479
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Every man has his own way, I didn't have a windy gun to use for mine but when I did I did want to sacrifice to old shock anyway so wasn't an issue.
You shouldn't have much trouble with the screws on the cover, they are just a fiddly annoyance. |
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3rd Apr 2016 7:42pm |
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