![]() | Home > Technical > new 110 chassis - shall I galvanized? |
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alfajock Member Since: 12 Jan 2011 Location: Bedfordshire Posts: 227 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
I'd say if you are going to the trouble of fitting a new chassis, and it is brand new and bare, yes get it galvanised. It doesn't make the truck immortal, but it gets pretty close! Fully Restored 89 110 CSW V8
CLS 350 CDI for the sensible stuff |
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jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 ![]() |
Nope,roller paint it with quality chassis primer/paint/then waxoil it,good for 50+years,if your on a budget.If money is no object get it galvanised then roller primer/paint it.Galvanised then quality primer paint/waxoil,good for 100 years+. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
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Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Galv and leave, it should not need painting it's an external finish in it's own right and looks all the better as it weathers in.
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Timo Member Since: 14 Jul 2011 Location: Peterborough Ontario Posts: 171 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Is this the forever truck? How long do you plan to keep it? Do you usually keep cars of flip them quickly?
If it will always be yours, you will take care of it. Or piece of mind, it will last longer if galvanized even if you stop looking after it. Sorry, not really an answer... If I had the choice I would galvanise it. Then I would not have to worry about rust! Cheers Tim Series II in pieces 1984 Defender 110 (3.5l V8 now 300TDI) |
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Caterham Member Since: 06 Nov 2008 Location: Birmingham Posts: 6318 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Put a good coat on it like you say.
no point having a good chassis with just dust on top of it as the rest rusts / corrodes away ![]() |
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Landy-Novice Member Since: 22 Jun 2013 Location: wiltshire Posts: 118 ![]() ![]() |
but galv' is a sacrificial layer and doesn't last. seen ones fitted in the '90 with rotten crossmembers. i would get it galv'ed/t washed/primered and plastering inside and out with a good quality paint. and keep pianting it every couple years then it will last forever. ![]() ![]() |
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Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The sacrifical properties of the coating are one of its benefits in self healing any damage. Zinc corrodes in preference to steel and sacrifices itself to protect the steel. The corrosion products from the zinc are deposited on the steel resealing it from the atmosphere and therefore stopping corrosion.
With paint coatings, additional protection would have to be applied immediately after the damage occurred or the steel would rust with eventual break down of the whole coating as rust crept underneath the paint film. If it's not lasting then it's been applied badly or the steel has been prepared poorly. Read more here: http://www.wedge-galv.co.uk/galvanizing-se...lvanizing/ |
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Mike_B Member Since: 23 Jan 2011 Location: Moray Posts: 550 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
Why wouldnt you galv it if you're in the enviable position of being able to fit a new chassis? I'd galv it and then coat in in that new buzzweld coating before the rebuild.
I'm slightly jealous! |
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Disco_Mikey Member Since: 16 Nov 2014 Location: Dundee Posts: 531 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
The chassis has to be taken back to the bare metal, both inside and out.
The acid does not strip off the paint, and so not protected by the galvanising It takes a lot of careful and thorough blasting to take the full chassis back to bare metal |
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rover Member Since: 26 May 2012 Location: Yorkshire Posts: 150 ![]() ![]() |
Be carefull, steel warps when galvansised, I think the likes of Richards make the chassis sections thicker/ stronger because of this.
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potspeedy Member Since: 13 Feb 2016 Location: Bucharest Posts: 14 ![]() ![]() ![]() |
guys, thanks for all the input on this, It s difficult for me to do it here as it is not a commune operation so I think I will stick to a good treatment... 2012 MY, Defender 110, 2.2 Puma
2016 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Autobiography past: 2015 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Vogue 2013 MY Range Rover 3.0TDV6 Vogue |
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