 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Puma Heater Blower motor not working |
 
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| DonH2000 Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: North Kent Posts: 551   
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My heater blower has stopped working on all 3 blow settings and also on the AC setting (but I can hear the front fan blowing when turned on), the 30 Amp fuse is not blown. Having researched the forum this link was most helpfull.
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic6397.h...er+working I have ordered the resistor part number JGM500020 51.60 inc VAT from local main dealer. My question is how easy is it to fit or do I have to take the blower assembly out of the engine bay? It looks like it is Part 2 highlighted in the picture below.  Cheers Don. |
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23rd May 2016 10:09am |
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| spudfan Member Since: 10 Sep 2007 Location: Co Donegal Posts: 4662 
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A long shot but the blower on my series 111 stopped working. It turned out to be the earth wire had come away from the fixing screw that held it to the vehicle body. Once reconnected everything was normal again. 1982 88" 2.25 diesel
1992 110 200tdi csw -Zikali 2008 110 2.4 tdci csw-Zulu 2011 110 2.4 tdci csw-Masai |
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23rd May 2016 3:50pm |
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| DonH2000 Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: North Kent Posts: 551
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Well the resistor pack did not make the blower work so we resorted to plan B. Order loads of bits from the local main dealer on sale or return. Some 250 lighter I had a new heater control for the dash and a new motor for the blower unit.
In the end the blower unit ( item 3 in the picture) was found to be dead. To change it required the removal of the bonnet and inner wheel arch, wheel arch and loosening of the left wing. All working now and I have a refund on the parts I did not require. Cheers Don. |
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27th May 2016 6:27pm |
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| DonH2000 Member Since: 12 Jan 2015 Location: North Kent Posts: 551
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You are right about the blower switch, you need a whole cluster JFC500840 111.96 ex vat from dealer.
(Part number in the picture is wrong!!!) Click image to enlarge Cheers Don. |
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29th May 2016 11:13am |
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| sikDefender Member Since: 22 Jul 2020 Location: 2447 Posts: 8  
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Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge
hey, I'd like to resurrect this thread ( I started a new one. but I can delete that...since finding this) could I get a little more info on this particular earth wire to body... related to blower box? I've tested all the voltage, fuses, wires related... but don't want to order the resistor motor pack, until I try & test everything also, if I was to bypass the resistor, really, fuses, and just test the blower box via an isolated 12v while its still bolted on (but all wires removed) would this trip out or do something to computer? nothing is working in dash - no fan, heater, A/C and no lights on the air dials are working. all points to a relay or fuse...but they all test good (got an auto electrician mate sussing it all out with me) thanks in advance. N if somethings hard to do, its not worth doing - Homer *just jokes... try it till you break something |
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3rd Sep 2020 4:12am |
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| macfrank Member Since: 05 Nov 2015 Location: somewhere in the north Posts: 1076  
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There‘s no computer involved here
 (well A/C is controlled by ECU but I don‘ think its relevant here)
Basically position 3 „high“ bypasses the resistor pack, position 2 uses one resistor and on 1 it’s both resistors. If you switch on A/C, it adds a connection to the resistor pack in order to activate the blower on „low“ even if the 3-stage switch is on 0 „off“. You can find a link to the wiring diagrams searching for user dgardel IIRC If you feed 12V to the blower directly be aware it draws around 20 Amps or more! The resistor pack has high-wattage resistors cooled by passing air. |
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3rd Sep 2020 7:03pm |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060  
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sikDef, the lights are only illumination for the dials and come on with the instrument/sidelights (and aren´t connected to the blower switch). If the fan doesn´t work in all three speeds and the when the AC button is pressed, then it is likely to be the motor.
This thread caught my eye as we had exactly this issue only (2012 2.2 90) three weeks ago on our return journey from Croatia. Out of the blue, no blower at any setting, although the fuse was fine and there was power at the switch. We drove 15 hours at between 30 - 33 degrees outside with the windows open and prayed we wouldn´t get into a jam at the border. Once home I removed the blower motor and tested it. Dead. No resistence across the terminals and no reaction to 12v input. On a left hand drive Defender it is easy enough to access, and I replaced it as soon as LR could supply me a new one (at about €185,-). I was really surprised that such a mundane component on an eight yeat old vehicle could fail. However, that goes with the territory, doesn´t it!  1998 Tdi 90 SW,
2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTs, Recaro CSs, anorak, wellingtons |
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3rd Sep 2020 7:31pm |
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| sikDefender Member Since: 22 Jul 2020 Location: 2447 Posts: 8
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thank you Wild Card 90 & macfrank 🙏🏽
this is definitely going to get us on the right track. yeah, on the right hand drive here, quite the epic day job to pull blower and all out to test. I'll try bypass and test with 20amp 12v. about the main earth wire for blower/fan console switch or from motor box...somewhere to the body, would someone know where that is exactly? I've hunted around for it, can't see one. there was a lot of beach driving corrosion on this puma when I got it. slowly been cleaning and replacing part by part. since all the A/C, fan/heater/ red dial lights are all out, I was looking towards an earthing problem or two... but as wild card90 said - probably a motor 😞 I'll update here when I find something new or relevant. thanks again if somethings hard to do, its not worth doing - Homer *just jokes... try it till you break something |
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4th Sep 2020 2:35am |
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| Italian90 Member Since: 28 Sep 2020 Location: Naples Posts: 6  
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I'm having similar issues, I have power through the fuse, but at the input to the resistor I'm getting nothing.... anyone have a proper electrical schematic of the heater power input?
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28th Sep 2020 9:01am |
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| Wild Card 90 Member Since: 03 Dec 2014 Location: Gerlingen Posts: 1060
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It is negative switched, like many functions on the Defender. The +12v from the fuse goes directly to the motor. The return(earth) then runs through the switch on the dash. If, like mine, the motor packs up, there will be no continuity through it to the switch. Try removing the plug on the motor (do-able on a LHD). Check that the 12v is arriving at the plug or put 12v directly through the motor.
My guess is that it is the motor. Mine packed up from one day to the next. 1998 Tdi 90 SW, 2008 Td4 90 SW, 2012 2.2 90 SW, 2" raised Trailmaster/Terrafirma Heavy Track Raids, 255 MTs, Recaro CSs, anorak, wellingtons |
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28th Sep 2020 12:12pm |
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| Italian90 Member Since: 28 Sep 2020 Location: Naples Posts: 6
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If I want to test the motor directly where would I apply power / ground? I am guessing that the 12v goes through the two wire plug? The three wire is the dash switch.
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28th Sep 2020 12:38pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6605 
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https://www.defender2.net/gallery/albums/u...LIMATE.pdf
1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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28th Sep 2020 1:25pm |
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| Italian90 Member Since: 28 Sep 2020 Location: Naples Posts: 6
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I wish the drawings would have what voltage should be at which connection and where they are actually located. I can see that positive power comes in from one side and the earth is going through the dash switch, but no sure how to read the rest of it in between.
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28th Sep 2020 1:50pm |
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| Italian90 Member Since: 28 Sep 2020 Location: Naples Posts: 6
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I applied direct power to the fan and it worked...I have power at the fuse box in the car, but no power where I should have it on the connector....I may end up running a new power cable tomorrow, but I will revisit the drawing to see if I am missing something.
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28th Sep 2020 3:56pm |
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