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red squirrel



Member Since: 10 Feb 2016
Location: Perth & Kinross
Posts: 2

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
Rear brake problem - any ideas
Rear brake discs both appear to have surface corrosion even after several emergency brakes. They do not return to the shiny state I would expect after normal braking. There is no difference between left and right rear discs but a big contrast with the front discs. I suspect either Pressure Control Valve or Master Cylinder? Any thought please? (Rear disc and, for comparison. front disc pics attached)

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Post #503078 10th Feb 2016 1:13pm
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williamthedog



Member Since: 29 Dec 2012
Location: south wales
Posts: 3441

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 PU Tamar Blue
Think I would go for a set of discs and recon or new calipers Thumbs Up
Post #503086 10th Feb 2016 1:30pm
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red squirrel



Member Since: 10 Feb 2016
Location: Perth & Kinross
Posts: 2

2007 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 SW Cairns Blue
Thanks for the idea...it had new calipers and discs fitted in July last year so am assuming they are not the cause.
Post #503089 10th Feb 2016 1:37pm
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
I'd get it on a brake tester. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

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Post #503161 10th Feb 2016 4:19pm
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miker



Member Since: 13 Sep 2015
Location: Surrey
Posts: 1766

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Rioja Red
Or jack a rear wheel up, have an assistant apply the brakes and see if you can turn the wheel. Often you have to apply the brakes really hard to get any decent braking force out the rears. Especially when unladen, the bias valve will reduce the braking force to the rears.
Post #503164 10th Feb 2016 4:25pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
williamthedog wrote:
Think I would go for a set of discs and recon or new calipers Thumbs Up


Without diagnosing the root cause? Seems an expensive and haphazard way to go.

Have a look at the rear pads on both sides of the caliper, are they equally worn? Also, are the inside faces of the rear discs as equally rust stained as the outer faces?

Do you have any old pads? If you can get a set, swap them out and have someone operate the foot pedal whilst you watch the caliper to see if the pistons have a full free range of movement. You can use a block of wood if you have no old pads - it's just something to limit the piston movement range and stop them coming out too far or falling out completely. Try to see if you can push them back in fully by hand, it should not be too easy but equally it should feel smooth and consistent.

Your issue could also be with the fluid getting to the caliper. Is the condition of the flexible hoses good, no leaks, bleed nipple clean and air tight?
Post #503395 11th Feb 2016 9:51am
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17478

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
The pistons could be sticking in the rear calipers. Try pushing the pistons back in the bores and assess how easily they move.
Post #503399 11th Feb 2016 10:06am
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