 | Home > In Car Electronics > Tapping into the interior light circuit.... HELP! |
 
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900  |
It sounds so simple and I am sure it is but how do you do it? You can't just piggy back a roof light as I tried this and when the light dims the piggy back one comes on! Is this negative switched then? The reason I ask is my next mod is the add some red courtesy lights into the bottom of the door cards.
Thanks Andy Andy 2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html Last edited by mcma1 on 11th Feb 2016 5:31pm. Edited 1 time in total |
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6th Feb 2016 12:37pm |
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| jomara Member Since: 26 Oct 2009 Location: Lanarkshire Posts: 1790  
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Hi Andrew
If I remember correctly it's permanent live to the courtesy lights with the switching at the doors being done with the negative HTH 2014 110 2.2TDCi XS Station wagon 1971 Bowler Tomcat 88 4.2 V8 Auto 2022 110 D250 XS Edition - Gone 2024 110 D250 X-Dynamic HSE |
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6th Feb 2016 12:46pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900 |
So just need a permanent live from somewhere and then use the switched ground from a door?
Thanks. Andy 2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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6th Feb 2016 12:54pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763  
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Assuming the Pumas have the same AS10 and setup as the TD5, the Interior lights have a permanent live, a switched ground and a permanent ground.
Switch in on position - Permanent live to ground Switch in 'door' position - Permanent live to switched ground Switch in off position - No ground! |
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6th Feb 2016 1:09pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900 |
I knew it was simple!!
It's four non Led bulbs so I should really add a relay and have a switched circuit from the interior ground then? Andy 2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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6th Feb 2016 1:10pm |
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| miker Member Since: 13 Sep 2015 Location: Surrey Posts: 1763
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What sort of power are they? My first response would be to replace them with LEDs
Not knowing what the AS10 has internally, I'd play it safe and not put more than an additional 10w on it personally. It might be a massive transistor rated far higher, but you just don't know! |
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6th Feb 2016 1:12pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900 |
Prob 3w each so yes can just replace the bulbs I guess. Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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6th Feb 2016 1:25pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20448
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To avoid cutting anything as standard wiring just detect the live and earth of the light fixture.
Solder on some wire fails to the rear contacts and your good to go. This will then mirror the function of the interior lighting exactly if that's what you are looking for? If you want to remove it in future, either de-solder the taps onto it or buy new interior lights and job done. No loom cut or altered at all. I would however suggest stepping down the fusing and and an in-line fuse. (I chose a 1A blade) This way your standard lights will still be useable even if the extras have a problem. Think I went down to 1mm thinwall and had to bring the rating down to protect the cable.  Click image to enlarge And reading the previous comment, yes, I certainly wouldn't exceed the 10w / 0.8 - 1A draw as standard. If the light has and LED fixture in it it gives you leway to add some extra items but don't add extra to it with a standard 10w bulb in there too. You can test the current draw of what you want to fit, or it might be listed on packaging or online. Just calculate from there then. Other pics of what I did here: https://www.defender2.net/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=1183 |
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6th Feb 2016 5:17pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900 |
Wow lots of detail!
If I take a battery fused positive feed...then solder into a door switch cable for the trigger negative, is this correct? When I actually get the lights on Monday I will fit them and post a picture, you guys can then probably get a better feel for what I want and the best way!
Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated  Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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6th Feb 2016 5:27pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20448
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Yes, you could do that.
It won't be easy though to get a tap from the door switches as the connector is on the rear with rear access unless you are prepared to drill a small hole below or similar for the tap wire. I'd imagine the earth is common, but can't guarantee that it is. If it isn't you'd need to wire to both door switches but I'm pretty sure it should be a common earth. |
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6th Feb 2016 6:09pm |
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| Cupboard Member Since: 21 Mar 2014 Location: Suffolk Posts: 2971 
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I would be reluctant to tap in to the existing door switch circuit for fear of messing with the signal to the 10AS. The 10AS is looking for its input to be pulled down, so it will be trying to pull the input up internally. Putting a bulb in to the same circuit will also be trying to pull the switch 0V up when the doors are shut, and if they're trying to pull them up to different voltages that could cause problems. I don't know enough about the 10AS to comment.
Going back a step though, there's no reason I can see not to just add them to the existing circuit. The 10AS can drive three interior lights in a 110 CSW so I don't see any reason it should have issues with three in a 90. |
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7th Feb 2016 3:49pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20448
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^^^ This is why I stuck to the light fittings only.
Providing you don't exceed the consumption of draw then you can do no wrong. I tried to match the current draw as much as I could too but isn't easy as LED's draw so little power. I want to do some work with mine but it doesn't stop raining so.... |
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7th Feb 2016 4:33pm |
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| YOLO110 Member Since: 14 Feb 2015 Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK Posts: 1645 
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I installed my Scenelite with a feed from the rear interior courtesy light. Yes, a permanent live.
See here http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic43220....scenelight YOLO... You Only Live Once... |
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7th Feb 2016 4:58pm |
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| mcma1 Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: Northern Ireland Posts: 2900 |
Is this acceptable??
Click image to enlarge Admin note: this post has had its images recovered from a money grabbing photo hosting site and reinstated Andy
2014 Fuji 110 SW LS3 https://www.defender2.net/forum/post751233.html#751233 2014 Corris 110 SW http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic40056.html My old Xtech 90 build.. http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic15681.html LS3 V8 build... http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic49051.html |
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7th Feb 2016 6:17pm |
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