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Stacey007



Member Since: 25 Sep 2015
Location: Cheshire
Posts: 3750

United Kingdom 
^ I like that set up...but


Can I just cut the Nato plug off and wire it to a 12v one?


Thanks
Post #560178 31st Aug 2016 8:41am
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LandRoverAnorak



Member Since: 17 Jul 2011
Location: Surrey
Posts: 11324

United Kingdom 
In theory, yes. However, the cable is very thick and it does require some cross wiring for which there isn't really space inside a standard plug to do. Hence the conversion box above. Darren

110 USW BUILD THREAD - EXPEDITION TRAILER - 200tdi 90 BUILD THREAD - SANKEY TRAILER - IG@landroveranorak

"You came in that thing? You're braver than I thought!" - Princess Leia
Post #560179 31st Aug 2016 8:47am
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
davew wrote:
Surely you should be running the stove off it's own regulator ? The Colemans are designed to run at a higher pressure than "regular" appliances which is why they have their own regulator (that you've cut off). Running it through a lower pressure regulator isn't going to work too well.


Davew. .. you hit the nail on the head.. This is the problem I have. I have no idea what pressure the Gladiator stove runs on and nievely hoped that it would run on 37mb. I need to put a manometer on the pipe and find out what the running pressure needs to be and then decide if it is worth running a higher pressure line to the cook station just to run this damm stove. The only reason I am considering this expense is the fact that the stove is very fast and has griddles, otherwise it would be gone. The regulator provided by Coleman gives no indication as to what it is so if anyone has any idea iam all ears. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #560183 31st Aug 2016 9:32am
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Stacey007 wrote:
Hello


Its looking great Smile good on you for all your hard work. I do wish I was handy with electrics Sad


I need to convert my sankey from 24v to 12v and I've yet to attack this job Sad


Just as LandRoverAnorak did, I did the same. It is a straightforward conversion and I managed to use the original 24v trailer cable into a new 7 pin connector. It is tight but possible. When I purchased the trailer it had already been converted but needed modifying to suit my needs and also to replace some damaged and corroded parts. Don't be sacred of the wiring. .it is very easy and the worst you can do is blow a fuse on your Defender. If you need the wiring diagrams I can send them to you and also I am happy to help if you need it. If you get all the light bulbs and a new 7 pin connector you have all the support you need right here. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #560186 31st Aug 2016 9:43am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
xpertoftheseas wrote:
davew wrote:
Surely you should be running the stove off it's own regulator ? The Colemans are designed to run at a higher pressure than "regular" appliances which is why they have their own regulator (that you've cut off). Running it through a lower pressure regulator isn't going to work too well.


Davew. .. you hit the nail on the head.. This is the problem I have. I have no idea what pressure the Gladiator stove runs on and nievely hoped that it would run on 37mb. I need to put a manometer on the pipe and find out what the running pressure needs to be and then decide if it is worth running a higher pressure line to the cook station just to run this damm stove. The only reason I am considering this expense is the fact that the stove is very fast and has griddles, otherwise it would be gone. The regulator provided by Coleman gives no indication as to what it is so if anyone has any idea iam all ears.


Never found any specs other than mentions of it having a higher pressure and a higher flow rate than other regulators. For our trailer we also use a Coleman stove and just use one of these pipes to hook it up to the propane cylinder...
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/172167211863?_tr...EBIDX%3AIT

For our Australian refillable bottle we got a similar pipe but with a 3/8 fitting that goes onto a gas tap, might be another option...
http://www.colemanaustralia.com.au/product...8awQ2U01Ik

That are all coleman parts but have to be bought from outside the EU as far as I can tell. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #560193 31st Aug 2016 10:27am
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
In those links, they all look like they have no regulator at all suggesting it runs on normal LPG pressure (8-10Bar). I am back now from our jaunt to the Lake District so over the weekend I will attempt to get a pressure reading from the coleman bottle and attached regulator. If it is running with no pressure reduction it may be worth running a single HP line to the cook station. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #560906 2nd Sep 2016 7:45pm
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
Not sure I made it clear, those pipes go direct from the bottle (no regulator) to the Coleman regulator. So on one end they have a fitting to match the bottle and on the other they have the same fitting as a Coleman bottle. The Coleman regulator is actually quite difficult to measure normally as it has valves at both ends. If you have the bit you cut off you can possibly measure it although that will only give you pressure and not flow rate. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #560921 2nd Sep 2016 8:18pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Phase 2
After a (reasonably) successful 2016 with the trailer, for 2017 I am making some small changes to suit our situation and to make good some issue from last year.

We will be going further afield this year, and Corsica is firmly in our plans (booked the ferries anyway). The tent we used last year, whilst amazing in its size and ease of erection, is totally unpractical for doing overnights which we will be doing en-route to Nice to cross to Corsica.


Click image to enlarge


So I have just purchased this!




I had been reading a lot about the roof tents, and a colleague of mine had managed to get one under test. So, after much blagging with the manufacturer I managed to order one which will be here in a couple of weeks. The fox wing and the tent are separate items, but the dimensions are such that they will fit the trailer perfectly.

Today I dragged the trailer out of its winter storage position and gave it a wash down and thorough clean. After which I took it six miles into town to get some diesel in the 110 and to give it a run. It seemed soooo much heavier than I remembered from the year before, and only when I saw smoke billowing from the trailer that it clicked in my head.


Click image to enlarge


Damn something has gone wrong, and by the time I had limped home this evening it was too dark to investigate, but my suspicions are with the Bradley MH35 overun damper as it seems very compressed. If anybody has any overhaul or instruction manual for this unit I would appreciate it, as it is not covered in any of the Sankey manuals which I have.

So, the coming weeks will see the following:

- Addition of an HP gas line to the stove.
- Re-position solar panel and flood lights and install the roof tent and fox wing.
- Manufacture and installation of shelving and dividers for the side box.
- Additional LP gas line external point.
- Installation of the air heater I never got round to installing last year
- Finish the water system and consider an on-demand water heater (maybe)
- Finish the Wi-Fi and 4G access point installation (as there is no way on this earth that I am listening to my three boys all the way to Corsica)
- Fit Cruise control to the 110
- Fit the 13 pin electrics to the 110
- Add the battery coupler so the 110 can charge the trailer batteries.
- Install reverse brake solenoid

Quite a lot to do, and off to China for some work stuff in the coming weeks. Corsica scheduled for July, so still some time.

Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #618768 22nd Apr 2017 9:22pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Back from an epic trip to China for a week with a stopover in Helsinki for two days. Glad to be back and working on the trailer again. Full speed.

The brakes are in pieces, with the calipers removed awaiting new pads. I cannot figure out the problem with the sticking calipers. BOTH of them are sticking, and the only way I could get the pads to release was to open the bleed valve with reduced the pressure inside the calipers allowing the pads to come away from the disk. The master cylinder is free as is the NATO hitch, so I can see no reason why the calipers were active other than they were seized and my dragging them and making them orange has released them. Appreciate any input from anyone reading this if they have experienced this sort of fault. I am rebuilding the calipers and will flush the brake fluid with new stuff.

Awaiting a big order from Amazon and Ebay, so until that arrives I have been concentrating on the wiring (adding and tidying), and fitting the heating and water system. The technical locker looks like this at the moment...


Click image to enlarge


Top shelf is the 12vDC system


Click image to enlarge

This has the main switch panel, solar controller, LPG tank level and some 12v sockets with USB power and voltmeter. The bottom left you can see the WIFI access point.

Middle shelf is the 240vAC system


Click image to enlarge

Small consumer unit feeding the 240vAC sockets and battery charger. Select switch on the right allows you to select between shore connected mains or Inverter.

Bottom shelf is just main battery switch and battery charger. Also the Inverter and some LPG valves.


Click image to enlarge


Behind all this (and also behind the fridge and shelving) is this mess..


Click image to enlarge


It was wired very quickly last year as I ran out of time, however I am now cleaning all this up and adding some extra protection for the 12vDC consumers as well as securing and re-routing some cables. The final product will be full sheathed with flexible conduit. I started installing the Propex heater and also added some junction boxes to aid with the connections.

The water filling and pumping system is completed, however I am waiting for the tap to arrive as well as some fittings to be able to complete. I ran out of daylight before I could take some photos so will post another day. My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #622527 7th May 2017 8:50pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
Brakes - Oh the brakes...
Unsure if anyone is still interested in this, but will continue to post until someone tells me to shut it Cool

I finally had the chance to do some proper investigation on the brakes and the issues surrounding the seizure and resulting smoke/heavy trailer incident. Last year the calipers had new pads and discs, flushed fluid along with new bearings and grease. What was not done was a caliper overhaul. I completely removed every component from the brake system which consists of...

Master cylinder
3 port hydraulic split block
Flexible hoses
Calipers

Not so complex and a very simple passive hydraulic circuit but very effective. However upon removing all components it was clear that they have not been touched since they were installed. As we are going to Corsica this year I am not taking any risks with the trailer, as it must be 100% serviceable and reliable and this called for a complete overhaul and repair of every component. When removing the left wheel caliper it was clear what the issue was, as the handbrake cam was seized in the closed position but this was not apparent until the caliper was torn down and inspected. I had purchased an overhaul kit for these and it was quite a straightforward job to carry out, however you do need some long nosed circlip pliers to be able to remove the auto-adjuster mechanism to be able to get to the handbrake cam shaft at the rear of the caliper. A lot of WD40 and a medium sized tapometer freed it up nicely and the same was done to the right side.

The hoses looked very tired and worn so I have sent them off for pattern and new braided hoses are on their way. New bleed nipples ordered and new pads also. I checked the discs and they are both have minor warping at 0.14mm run out so new discs (again) have been sent for machining to make the required modifications.

I removed the master cylinder and stripped it down and it was fine. New seal kit since I had it in pieces and reassemble - no more than 20min job. I received the solenoid lock out unit from the US a long time ago, but never go around to fitting it so that is planned to be done also once I have received the flaring kit and suitable end fittings. I will post some pics during the reassembly process, but I am waiting now for the discs and new hoses to arrive.

I have been spending a lot of time finishing the electrics and getting ready for the roof tent arrival. Until that arrives I have not been able to modify anything on the roof as I have no idea how it will fit just yet, but I am preparing for some extra aluminium structure on the roof (the roof is designed to hold a tent so should not need any structural modifications). Water system is nearly finished as is the air heater (like we need that in Corsica, I know!). The electrics have become more complex due to some demands from the family, but all coming together nicely.

Still have some modifications to the Defender. Cruise control is fitted and working (this itself makes it so much more enjoyable on long journeys), and the extra 12vDC outlets at the rear seats are complete. Still have some troubleshooting on the 13pin trailer electrics as the car is not charging the trailer batteries which I think is a VSR fault but need 30 mins to trouble shoot. In addition some security upgrades to be on the safe side.

Thats all for now, will post some pics soon if anyone is still interested.

Simon My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #628668 3rd Jun 2017 12:36pm
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10756

England 
I'm still very interested in your thread, really great to read and your way around the " problems " Alas i will not own a camping trailer ( would love to have one though ) as it would only be me using it as the wife wants a tin tent Rolling Eyes 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #628959 4th Jun 2017 7:40pm
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Rashers



Member Since: 21 Jun 2015
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3499

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
Yes Simon, keep it coming Thumbs Up

Mrs Rashers, on the other hand, would like a camping trailer and a tin tent...... Rolling Eyes
Post #628969 4th Jun 2017 8:19pm
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xpertoftheseas



Member Since: 05 Jan 2016
Location: Salisbury, Wilts
Posts: 164

United Kingdom 2014 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Aintree Green
More on the brake issue
Thanks for the feedback gents!

This brake issue really has been a difficult journey, but the end is close. The discs I sent for machining I am still waiting for their return so I cannot rebuild the hubs or assemble until they have arrived back. Meanwhile, I am modifying the pipe from the master cylinder to the splitter block to fit the reverse lock out solenoid.


Click image to enlarge


As this came from the US the threads on either end are imperial, but luckily the metric fittings are compatible. This solenoid simply hooks up to the reversing lights and provided the overrun damper is not compressed, the brake will not activate when reversing.

When I was removing the old flexible brake lines the bulkhead fitting was seized on the left wheel which resulted in an attack with the angle grinder. Admittedly I was a little over enthusiastic and managed to contact the solid brake line! DOH!


Click image to enlarge


Now I need to replace that line from the splitter to the left bulkhead fitting which I am aiming to do this week one evening.


Click image to enlarge


The water system is completed, and I managed to super-chlorinate the tank and also ran an anti-bacterial flush which was probably overkill, but we are intending to drink out out of this tank so being a little cautious on the new tank which has been open to the elements for several months. I have also installed a filter on the water line just before the taps.


Click image to enlarge


Pretty much everything is completed electrically, water and gas wise. Will post some more pics of the completed wiring etc later when I remember to take some. Removing the solar panel and lights to prepare the roof for the tent which has still not arrived from its China flight, but fingers crossed it will be here this week along with the brakes. Managed to sell the bug Vango tent this week, so really need the new tent as I have no other options! My 10th Land Rover, but my first Defender.
Post #633426 25th Jun 2017 10:39am
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L110CDL



Member Since: 31 Oct 2015
Location: Devon
Posts: 10756

England 
Moving along nicely Simon, not to long now and i hope your stuff comes sooner rather than later and thank you for the update Thumbs Up 1996 Golf Blue 300Tdi 110 Pick up.

Keeper.

Clayton.
Post #633514 25th Jun 2017 7:53pm
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shanecl



Member Since: 20 Mar 2013
Location: Louth
Posts: 506

Ireland 1989 Defender 90 V8 Petrol CSW Auto Firenze Red
Another vote for updates Smile
Post #634283 28th Jun 2017 9:46pm
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