 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > HELP!! Body work corrosion remedy needed |
 
|
|
|
| sgilmour Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 232   
|
Not sure if this has been covered before and apologies if it has but I've got some corrosion on my 90 and was wondering if there is any remedy to get the metalwork looking good again. Preferably a home remedy rather than needing another trip to the garage.
Corrosion I've got is shown in below pic as a reference to the issue. (And yes the  stickers are gone now. This was the first photo I took after buying it easier this year and the best one of the corrosion I have at the moment.
Cheers!  Click image to enlarge SG |
||
18th Jan 2016 10:16pm |
|
| sgilmour Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 232
|
If there's nothing that can be done then I'll just live with it. No harm in checking for a solution though, however far-fetched it might seem.
|
||
|
18th Jan 2016 10:54pm |
|
| Happyoldgit Member Since: 14 Sep 2007 Location: Norfolk Posts: 3471 
|
Which bits are you concerned about as dealing with the aluminium skin is different to dealing with the steel bits such as rear cross member & body cappings. The door on that age of vehicle will be steel frame clad in an aluminium skin, the corrosion at the bottom is due to the reaction between the two metals aided by water. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades. Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW. [Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc] http://forums.lr4x4.com I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic. |
||
|
19th Jan 2016 12:58pm |
|
| mk1collector Member Since: 17 Sep 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 6772  
|
And where the chassis mounts through the body on the rear panel you don't need to worry about any more as its gone
New rear door, corner capping and someone to weld a new rear panel on should sort it  Ray
My build thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html |
||
|
19th Jan 2016 5:17pm |
|
| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20749
|
I'd check to see if the metal is sound in it's self.
Proceeding from that as it is pretty general and not in a local spot probably looking at a re-spray. I know this is expensive if professionally done, but if you DIY I reckon you'd be surprised just how much of a good job you could do. A good DIY re-spray would look so much more better. Kit be worth weighing up it's value and it's importance to you for the cost / effort enloved. If you use it as a laner, something like Alien liner or Line X etc would be useful. |
||
|
19th Jan 2016 7:19pm |
|
| strang Member Since: 16 May 2012 Location: Happy Valley Posts: 1393 
|
Ken Wheelright - famous Series One restorer, told me that he used vinegar to get rid of corrosion like that. I have never tried it, but Ken's results are pretty good......
Click image to enlarge Euro-Leafing to infinity and beyond..... |
||
|
19th Jan 2016 7:40pm |
|
| sgilmour Member Since: 21 Jul 2015 Location: Essex Posts: 232
|
Miserableolgit - it's the aluminium skin I'm looking to sort out. No particular reason other than aesthetics.
MK1Collector - Thanks for your advice. Need to weigh up the cost vs the gain on that. Re the chassis mounts on the rear panel, it just looks as though they are gone in the picture. They are there in reality, it's just "smoke and mirrors" from another patch of corrosion. Custom90 - Thanks for your advice, I'll look into Alien Liner and Line X and the cost of a DIY spray job. I use it almost purely as a laner at the moment so it's not got perfect paintwork as it is. Strang - funnily enough someone said to me about vinegar but I thought they might have been pulling my leg! Thanks again all! |
||
|
19th Jan 2016 10:27pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
Acid is used for (cosmetically) cleaning ally tanks on trucks.Does a fantastic job anorl.Etch primer is also acid based (Which you need on alloy). Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
|
||
|
21st Jan 2016 11:48am |
|
| Supacat Member Since: 16 Oct 2012 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 11018 
|
It's like JLR do not even recognise this as an issue; however, another manufacturer - Lotus - did recognise the same issue with regard to footwel corrosion in the Elise chassis:
Click image to enlarge Read the ful details here, including the manufacturer's Procedure A and B repairs, but basically they went with using ACF 50 http://www.hazelnet.org/corrosion/ |
||
|
21st Jan 2016 2:27pm |
|
| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
bUT AFTER ACf50..ETC. YOU CANNOT PAINT.nO DIFFWERENT TO SILICON. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5.
|
||
|
21st Jan 2016 5:19pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT + 1 Hour |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2025 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
