 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Please Please help :( can't start defender and its snowing : |
 
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42   
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Yes mate that is exactly what's it's doing. Red light on dash appears to behave as normal. Arm alarm and it flashes really quick for ten seconds then goes to a slower flash. When trying to start no red light at all which I believe is all normal.
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16th Jan 2016 12:22pm |
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42
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Just realised it is very slightly different. It is as per below:
- Unlock car with fob,Unlock door with key (as truck does not have central locking) jump in, stick key in and turn, starter turns over for around 2 seconds and then cuts out, without the engine starting. -If you then turn the key back to ignition nothing happens - Get out the car, arm the alarm, wait a minute, unlock / unarm the alarm again,unlock door, jump in and repeat above except after having locked and unlocked it'll try turning over the engine again for about 2 seconds? |
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16th Jan 2016 12:38pm |
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42
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i have just spoke to a company who can repair the AS10 alarm if needed. He asked me what was wrong and stated its not the box, but to be honest when he thought this wasn't the issue he didn't have much time for me.
I must admit, i have been wondering if the fob is un arming the alarm, then surely it must be unarmming the immobiliser as the fob and unit are clearly taking to each other??? I do suspect the battery is now starting to go flat again after turning the engine must be thirty times on and off trying to locate issue, so i suspect i need to charge it again  |
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16th Jan 2016 12:50pm |
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| Jukathy Member Since: 25 Jan 2015 Location: Berlin Posts: 170 
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Try jump start first. Good luck!
Presumably weak battery - it's 8 yrs old now. |
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16th Jan 2016 5:44pm |
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| Phoenix90 Member Since: 04 Mar 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 377  
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OK, so it sounds as though the engine is not getting a valid mobilisation code. Do you have any fault codes?
The way the system works (i believe) is that when you turn the key, this sends a +12V to the starter relay. This is located under the driver seat and switches a +12V signal to the solenoid on the starter, causing the starter to turn over. The starter relay is taken to ground by the ECM, so if the ECM isn't taking it to ground it won't fire up. There are wiring diagrams available on the web showing all this. When you turn the key, the ECM is waiting for a mobilisation code to come in. This comes from the 10AS, via the instrument pack (ipac) and tell the ECM all is OK and to fire up. The symptoms of the ECM not getting a valid mobilisation code is that it turns over for about 1-2 seconds without catching and then dies (as the ECM kills the ground to the relay, hence it stopping).Importantly because the ECM isn't happy, it doesn't allow fuel to flow into the engine, so although it turn the starter for a second the car doesn't catch at all. If that is the case, it can be down to a few different things. Options include: Fault on the passive immobiliser in the 10AS unit. Do you have a tool that can be used to disable the passive immobiliser? Fault on the ipac. If your pac has developed fault, it may stop passing the signal from the 10AS onto the engine ECM. If you think either are these are the culprit, personally I would: - Disable passive immobiliser - Disable the plip immobiliser - Ensure that the plip use are using to arm and disarm the alarm has a good battery in it and is synchronised to the car. If it is arming and disarming the alarm then it should be. - Trigger a DDS relean (again you'll need a fairly good tool for this) - I know of someone who had the fault described above with the ipac which shorted out two wires on the back of the ipac (the immobiliser in and immobiliser out signals) thus removing the ipac from the circuit and the 10AS sending it direct to the engine ECM. However, i would't necessarily recommend this as although it worked for them (and I have done it once myself successfully) the signal in is supposedly a serial signal and the signal out is supposedly a CAN signal which shouldn't be compatible with each other. It might be time to get some help form someone with the right diagnostic tools if you don't have them and has a good understanding on this part of the car. Lorymann on here is a real expert, he isn't around much these days, but may be worth a PM. As always, double check every fuse, relay, connection etc. Also double check the cables on the back of actual starter itself, both the +12V and the bus bar between the solenoid and the starter. Watch the +12V cable there when you tighten it as it is permanently live so it your spanner touches the chassis there will be a major current flow give the fusing and size of cable. |
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16th Jan 2016 6:04pm |
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42
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Thanks for this mate. I am defo going to go through it all.
However this has just happened!!! I just went out for a cig and thought I would give it go. Pressed arm button five times and pressed unarm five times. Opened truck with key. Put in ignition and it jolted forward as my mate had left in gear when he was last in it checking battery again. Turned key again with it out of fear and after the gnome turned over for about five seconds it fired up. Now remember it would only usually turn over for about two seconds and then would shut off. So I now have a big smile on my face. I driver round the back just to check everything and the truck is now struggling at high revs as if it is about to go in safe mode. So backed off and tried again and again it is struggling. I am now sat outside with everything turned off but truck running checking everything works and it is evident when I turn lights on then something like the heater you can see dash lights dim, so I am presuming battery is flat which is not surprising. I am gone sit in it for a while and turn it all off and try to lock it, atm it, unarm it and start it. Keep your fingers crossed. She is still poorly but she is showing some signs of life. Will give you an update shortly. |
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18th Jan 2016 9:41pm |
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42
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Just noticed temp gauge is on about a quarter which is low??? Usually just below half way and was at half way temp when I went round the block.
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18th Jan 2016 9:43pm |
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| Rob00 Member Since: 09 Aug 2015 Location: North Wales Posts: 42
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Ok so been put on another run with lights on low beam to allow charging. She performed perfect and temp came up to normal when running on road. Came back, shut off and locked as normal. Unlocked and started her and bingo perfect. Now it's anoying me as to what the problem was??? Need to get her on computer. Gonna charge truck again tomorrow.
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18th Jan 2016 10:25pm |
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| justinp Member Since: 24 Jun 2016 Location: Cambridge Posts: 167
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Hi Rob00, did the problem ever return? I've had a couple of difficult starts this week with the symptoms sounding similar to yours. Now gone - 2012 2.2 110 DC XS
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18th Aug 2017 6:25pm |
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| johnnyd Member Since: 13 Apr 2013 Location: Chippenham Posts: 1006 
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Phoenix90 How do I ....
- Disable passive immobiliser - Disable the plip immobiliser I am suffering exactly the same symptoms as the OP on this thread, it happened to me on Thursday in France and I needed recovery, well p*ssed off .......seem to be a lot of posts like this on the web with 2007/8 2.‘‘4 Puma..... JD 2008 TDCi 2.4 XS CSW |
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11th Aug 2018 3:13pm |
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