 | Home > Technical > One stub axle covered in rusty dust |
 
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| thor44 Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol Posts: 128  
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Hi guys,
hopefully I've posted this question in the right subforum and you can help me on that one. One sub axle on the back axle of my MY14 Defender (I've got it April '15) is covered in some kind of rusty dust. As I'm no mechanic whatsoever I got a little worried and asked my dealer about it. He told me that it looks completely normal and it comes from the drivetrain which is slowly and naturally starting to rust. An answer which wasn't too satisfying for me... The thing which worried me the most was, that this "issue" occured on only one single stub axle, all other three were perfectly fine and I managed to find only minor traces of this rusty dust in the other rubber cap of the rear axle. While I was checking all other stub axles I've noticed a ca. 2mm gap on the one giving me headaches where I would usually expect a tight fit or at least some shims. The wheel bearing itself seems to be ok as I didn't notice any wobble while the wheel was jacked up. Thanks in advance for your help and greetings from the snowy Alps 
Here are some pictures (starting with the problem child):  Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge |
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25th Oct 2015 9:38pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2674 
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The dust is from fretting of the splines which have not been lubricated sufficiently. If there is no rotational play (unlikely looking at that but you might be lucky) clean it up, grease it well and re-assemble. If there is play you will require new drive members at least and possibly new CV joints as well.
There should be a certainly amount of free end float in the CV joint, this is set by shims under the circlip and the figures etc. are in the workshop manual. |
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25th Oct 2015 9:53pm |
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| thor44 Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol Posts: 128
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Thanks for the quick answers. I'm going to check the drive members and CV joints and keep you posted.
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26th Oct 2015 9:54am |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142 
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so do pumas have circlips on the rear axle half shafts?
on your opening post, you said REAR axle. I thought only the front axle has the circlips! Obviously the rear axle doesnt have CV joints etc either.  |
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26th Oct 2015 4:43pm |
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| thor44 Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol Posts: 128
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Hi mike, obviously they do. The ones on the front have circlips as well, but both of them have shims on. Well one thing to worry less about then. And another example of my outstanding mechanical expertise. Therfor I guess I'm laying all my hopes in the saying that every Defender turns its driver magically into a mechanic over time.
 many thanks for your help |
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26th Oct 2015 4:53pm |
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| Rickydodah Member Since: 14 Jul 2014 Location: East Sussex Posts: 1091 |
All axles have circlips but only front will have shims if required. Rear half shafts effectively float so no shims required.
I started with nothing and still have most of it left! |
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26th Oct 2015 5:41pm |
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| Retroanaconda Member Since: 04 Jan 2012 Location: Scotland Posts: 2674
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Apologies, I assumed it was the front axle as the vehicle was a 90 and it's a separate drive flange.
Have newer 90s gone back to separate drive flanges and half shafts on the rear axle? 300Tdi and Td5 90s used one-piece shafts/flanges which did away with the flange wear issues. Bit of a backward step if they have! |
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26th Oct 2015 8:04pm |
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| thor44 Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol Posts: 128
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Hi guys, I had it checked today (I'm a little hesistand in doing stuff by myself as it has another 2,5 years of guarantee to go
 ) and as you stated, the free end float is completely normal and reproducable on the other side as well. My mechanic told me, that there is no fretting of the splines and/or rotational play whatsoever and he suspects that the rust is coming from some water ingress in the past. So, I'm a little relieved now.
Another question: do you use any kind of grease under the rubber covers to seal the stubaxle from any kind of dust or water and if yes, which one would you recommend? |
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2nd Nov 2015 3:51pm |
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| Dave-H Member Since: 08 Feb 2011 Location: Surrey Posts: 1507  
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I always remove the drive flange and grease the splines [on both half shaft and Drive member] with LM grease
You could just put a large dab into the rubber dust cover so it migrates its way into splines ... Just be aware you won't get much in there because the cap won't have clearance to refit Guns and Landrovers .... anything else is irrelevant. |
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2nd Nov 2015 4:33pm |
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| thor44 Member Since: 18 Sep 2015 Location: Ahrntal, Südtirol Posts: 128
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Thanks Dave! This is the way to go I guess.
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3rd Nov 2015 10:01am |
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| Leviathan Member Since: 24 Oct 2015 Location: Staffs Posts: 248
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Hi folks
I thought I'd check mine after reading this and found the fronts rusted solid to the flanges. The circlip broke in half on removal. I removed the flange bolts but couldnt budge it off the CV splines. I dont have any urgent requirement to sort this but as anyone got any ideas how I might separate them? Ta Nick |
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8th Nov 2015 10:54pm |
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| jimbob7 Member Since: 06 Jul 2013 Location: uk Posts: 2055 |
/\/\/\ Not an un-common problem on the front shafts,don't recall seeing the same problem on the rears tho?? Seen a few peeps have had to cut the flange off (not an easy task) including me
 . I've said before if I bought a new Defender one of the first jobs(amongst many  ) would be to remove the flanges and grease the shafts*,also fit the generic H/D flanges from Br*tpart,Allmakes,Bearmach,as they have a proper sealed screw on dust cap.
*FWIW,I get the impression,lol,all manufacturers weigh grease before applying the thinnest of veneers that a dentist would be proud of, with that in mind I would be inclined to re grease the bearings anorl.... plus cables, linkages,etc.etc. Fake edit..think next time i will drill a series of holes (being careful not to drill into the hub),before buying the appropriate cutting discs,also a cold chisel may come in handy. Pov.spec,ftw. 2006, 110,TD5. |
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9th Nov 2015 1:17pm |
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