 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Overheating... |
 
|
|
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755  
|
So had a problem a few days ago where the 110 went into the high temp limp mode getting off the motorway.
I immediately pulled over and connected up the ultra gauge to watch engine temp and it was indeed high. At the same time i noticed that i had no heat from the heater at all, even when engine running fully up to temperature (or above!) I thought... "I know this!" and suspected the thermostat. A quick check under the bonnet revealed some cold hoses too which backed up my theory. got the thermostat replaced and coolant renewed at a local garage (in london so not my usual) and heater working like a dream. Garage reported that the car was running fine and all seemed well. however the car is now still running hot, mostly at higher speeds and when not under load. It got to 105.C before on a little test drive at around 50mph at which point i let it cool down a bit before returning home to cry 
The hoses are all hot and the system is under pressure. Any suggestions of things i can easily check? Thoughts that occurred to me were things such as: - air in system? - viscous fan? - water pump? I can't think what else it could be? And made all the weirder by the fact that the heater was fixed by a new thermostat, and the hoses are all now hot too! Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
26th Nov 2015 10:06pm |
|
| Mash Member Since: 09 Feb 2015 Location: Guernsey Posts: 1674  
|
With the work done I would suggest an air lock, do you get full heat from the heater matrix? If not try bleeding from these as they are the highest point for coolent. 90 wolf - Jasmin http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39408.html
90 V8 - Maggie http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic42564.html 110 TD5 - Buggsy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic59029.html 52HG25 lightweight https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic72342.html D3 Hse - Fiona Capri 2l S - Anna Think I might have a problem............ |
||
|
26th Nov 2015 11:50pm |
|
| pannawonica Member Since: 21 Nov 2010 Location: Clackline Western Australia Posts: 568 
|
The fan does not do much after 30mph.
 |
||
|
27th Nov 2015 4:58am |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
Heater seems to be working very well to be honest.
Is there any way I could check/rule out an air lock? Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
27th Nov 2015 7:38am |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
I will have a check... Shouldn't be too dirty though as not been anywhere muddy/off-roading for a while Cheers, David
Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
27th Nov 2015 1:30pm |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
Going to try and check the flow through the radiator too. Any tips how best to do this as the AC condenser is in front of it.
Run up to temp, open bonnet and remove fan cover? Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 9:54am |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
UPDATE:
Infra-red thermometer seems to have found the problem: http://vid1340.photobucket.com/albums/o736...fic4ja.mp4 significant portion of the radiator is stone cold Will have to clear out the gunk Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 2:04pm |
|
| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171 
|
Are you sure that's abnormal?
At idle there's very little flow passing through the rad. Ive an electric fan and Allisport rad and because there's no airflow over the rad I can witness the same as it spreads from top right. Until the thermostat truly "Pops" theres always a gradient. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 3:34pm |
|
| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
|
I've just been thinking about this...
To test your system why not disconnect the viscous fan and run the engine up to temp. See if you can get it into the 100deg range whilst sat on the drive and test systems like heater and use your IR sensor to check the relative temps of various things. Id also be checking that the bleed pipe from the top of the rad to the header tank is returning water. If it is, then at least that's an indication that the water pump is good. If it is over temping and the rad remains cold but the heater is stinking hot, this indicates Thermostat (I know you've had it changed) If the heater is under performing and there is a marked temp gradient across the radiator this points to pump. (Some fluid will flow due to natural convection) Obviously a pump can partially fail which makes life hard. Trying to temp test a system with a viscous fan attached is going to be tough. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 3:47pm |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
Thanks for the thoughts Cetane, much appreciated different angle on the problem.
However when I tested the temp of the radiator with the IR thermometer, I had just (<2min ago) parked up with the temp reading 95 degrees (hence thermostat presumably fully open). The hoses are all red hot and the heater was pouring out hot air. The radiator wouldn't have had time to cool down on one half only and around 1/3 of the area was at a good temperature. To me this has to be reduced operational area of the radiator due to some kind of blockage? Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 3:52pm |
|
| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
|
Whos to say that part of the rad ever got hot. If its doing its job with air flow from a fan, and ambient passing over it it will never get to 95 Deg, otherwise it wouldnt be doing its job.
Test it by running it up to temp on the drive. It take a while but did it on my install. Obviously you need to hold some revs on and it takes ages. A rough and ready way to discount the airflow is to completely blank the rad off with cardboard or tape and measure the other side. if the water outlet housing gets to 100 and the rad is cold and the heater is stinking hot then I'd agree with your diagnosis, though id still be suspicious of the stat. I'd leave the heater off though as you try to get it up to temp as it saves time. Again only do this on the drive so temp rise is slow and easy to monitor. I'd discount airlocks, as they don't just randomly appear. That and Ive bled my system down a ridiculous amount of times for rad changes and Webasto installs. I'm yet to get one on refill. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 4:04pm |
|
| Cheshire110 Member Since: 26 Jul 2013 Location: Cheshire/London Posts: 2755
|
Well yes obviously I wouldn't expect it to get up to 90 odd, but around 1/3 of the rad was at 60-70 then the temperature falls off a cliff down to 16 over around a couple of centimetres.
That doesn't look to me like a gradient of steady cooling across the radiator but no water passing through due to blockage? Cheers, David Land Rovers of all shapes S3 onwards… Daily is a 110 V8. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 4:17pm |
|
| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
|
Its possible. But your car is 5 years old. Assuming youve kept on top of servicing id be suprised a rad is blocked. Maybe a foriegn object down a pipe?
Its simple to check by blanking the airflow though. Failing that drop your coolant and try a backflush. Edited to add. I think you can discount viscous fan as i dont run one either and my fan is never on. |
||
|
28th Nov 2015 4:23pm |
|
| Cetane Member Since: 27 Nov 2012 Location: Lancashire Posts: 171
|
Did you get it sorted in the end? Cheers Cetane |
||
|
14th Dec 2015 6:25pm |
|
|
|
| All times are GMT |
< Previous Topic | Next Topic > |
Posting Rules
|
Site Copyright © 2006-2024 Futuranet Ltd & Martin Lewis
