 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > To swap door bolts do you ... |
 
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17319   
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On the side doors (front and rear) you can get a spanner on the nuts without removing the door card. You may have to ease the card gently away from the door, but there's no need to remove it. I'm not sure about the rear 'safari' door because I have a tailgate!
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5th Oct 2015 1:27pm |
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| Martin Site Admin Member Since: 02 Apr 2007 Location: Hook Norton Posts: 6602 
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It is possible to do without removing the door cards, the thinner a 13mm spanner you can use the better.
Worth protecting the door frame against scratches/marks from the spanner head, slide a bit of cardboard or similar into the gap.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW |
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5th Oct 2015 1:30pm |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello RRUK
I have what you have, well more or less 2.4, 90, MY2011 and blackwolf is right. I have also just completed exactly what you are doing changing over all to SS. Rear Door a combination of completely visible and therefore self evident swaps and the requirement to remove interior panels, lower hinge is from below cross member. Side Doors bolts into bulkhead all have captive 'nuts' so just remove and replace one by one, those through the doors, with the nuts just visible on the edges of the door cards can be accessed by pulling back the door card (very slightly) right along the forward edge and lower front corner the plastic 'christmas tree' like fixings will releases quite easily. I used a ring spanner, with a slightly angled head to get on these internal nuts. Tip 1 for those bolts where you are required to get on the inner nut, you may find it easier to tighten the whole thing up by keeping the Torx head (and therefore bolt) stationary and tightening the nut only, this lowers the chance of deforming the Torx head if everything is not ideally aligned. Tip 2 it took me a few minutes longer than it should to work out that the whole job of tackling the upper door hinge , door side bolts (not bulk head side), would be much easier with the electric windows lowered...  you can then get on both sides of this bolt then easily.
Tip 3 obvious... but do the bolts one at a time, to prevent any misalignment / door dropping check once, check twice and check again especially if you then implement the 'ball bearing' security measure. Tip 4 again obvious also but if you plan to Dinitrol either inside the cavity of the rear door frame or the front bulk-head, get this job done first if you want to then 'secure' the bolts by any method. Click image to enlarge Good Luck SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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5th Oct 2015 2:14pm |
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| Roy5695 Member Since: 15 Feb 2014 Location: Cornwall Posts: 1123 
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I'd also look into applying some form of barrier paste to the stainless bolts so they don't start to react with aluminium if salt water gets between them.
Look at galvanic corrosion on a search engine and you'll see why I suggest this. |
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5th Oct 2015 2:40pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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The Nakatanenga bolt kits we supply come with paste as standard and have the genuine shaped door bolt heads.
Another tip. When replacing the B pillar door bolts and using paste keep the seat belt webbing away from the bolt as you tighten it up and wipe any excess paste off the bolt so it does not transfer itself to the seat belt webbing. Brendan |
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5th Oct 2015 3:18pm |
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| 1978 Member Since: 04 Aug 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 519 
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Is the Nakatanenga kit supposed to come with a diagram to show where all of the bolts should go? I've worked most of mine out but still have a good few left over!! |
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5th Oct 2015 4:05pm |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17319
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Another tip: if, like me, you have stuck ball-bearings in the heads of your screws, allow around an hour per screw to remove them. It really is extraordinarily difficult!
It's reassuring really, but it is a pain to do. |
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5th Oct 2015 5:56pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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I swapped out all of the exterior bolt on bits 'n' bobs over time for stainless over a prolonged period of time including the windscreen blocks and bonnet hinges. All points have been covered quite comprehensively, the most difficult out of the lot as mentioned has to be the lower rear Safari door hinge which involves getting underneath, ideally a second pair of hands is the ideal scenario for that one hinge.
Click image to enlarge Click image to enlarge If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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5th Oct 2015 6:26pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2079 
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Hey K9F,
Those s/s hinges are a work of art - things of real beauty. 
I am  with envy.
They are so highly polished that they look chrome. They are on my list! Sorry for hijacking the thread a little. 
I agree with retaining the Torx head. I chose an Allen head s/s replacement and poor quality at that. They look ok but wouldn't be my choice again. Barrier paste 1000% |
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5th Oct 2015 7:34pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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Thanks Screbble,
Not cheap and had to wait several months after registering my interest to get the hinges as the first batch took ages to get polished. http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/YRM-L...oor-Hinges Window blocks I originally had Croytec ones but subsequently swapped them out for stainless ones too. Bonnet hinges came from OX4X4 firm based in Guernsey but also available from YRM above. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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5th Oct 2015 7:54pm |
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| Screbble Member Since: 26 Apr 2015 Location: Lancashire Posts: 2079
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Thanks for the link K9F. Really high quality products.
Father Christmas will no doubt be starting to compile his list shortly.......  |
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6th Oct 2015 6:23pm |
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| leeds Member Since: 28 Dec 2009 Location: West Yorkshire Posts: 8580
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Sorry no diagram to show where all the bolts going. There are basically two complete kits to cover a wide range of Defender. Hence there may well be surplus bolts, just put them in your spare bolt box. Brendan |
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6th Oct 2015 7:13pm |
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| ericvv Member Since: 02 Jun 2011 Location: Near the Jet d'Eau Posts: 5816  
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No, you don't. I recently replaced all my door bolts again, and on some doors you just have to carefully pull loose one door clip or so with a bit of force. Must admit I damaged a single lower 2nd row door clip in the process, but I have that replaced by my dealer. Simple. As to the choice of anti seizure paste for your new bolts, suggest you look up a thread I started on the subject simply by putting "Weicon paste" in the search engine. The info is in the 1st of 2 threads started by myself. Then make up your own mind about what you think will be better. Good luck.
Eric You never actually own a Defender. You merely look after it for the next generation. http://youtu.be/yVRlSsJwD0o https://youtu.be/vmPr3oTHndg https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_GtzTT9Pdl0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ABqKPz28e6A https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rLZ49Jce_n0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvAsz_ilQYU https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K8tMHiX9lSw https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dxwjPuHIV7I https://vimeo.com/201482507 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZSixqL0iyHw |
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7th Oct 2015 5:33am |
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