 | Home > Puma (Tdci) > Clutch Flow Restrictor / Torque Limiter |
 
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| SiWhite Member Since: 19 Jan 2010 Location: North Hampshire Posts: 455   
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My clutch issues continue...
Symptoms as follows; clutch normal when cold, but after about 20 minutes of driving the bite point sinks to close to the floor and the pedal sometimes needs assistance to lift again. The fluid was black but has recently been changed. I've changed the master cylinder and bled the system from the bleed point, to no avail. Is it possible to change the clutch flow restrictor without removing the gearbox? I've seen that this part http://www.paddockspares.com/uug500040-valve-assy-control.html is available - I'm hoping that it might be at fault, which would save splitting the engine and gearbox. Thanks in advance for your thoughts... My blog - www.anacreinhampshire.blogspot.co.uk 110 TD5 BuildHERE - sold! 110 Tdci Build HERE - sold! Passat Alltrack - 4x4, auto, 45mpg, gloriously comfortable - but not a Defender! |
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1st Oct 2015 10:39pm |
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| SiWhite Member Since: 19 Jan 2010 Location: North Hampshire Posts: 455
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Lorryman - I can get it back to normal operation by quickly pumping the pedal a few times, but it soon reverts to short travel. My symptoms sound like yours...new slave required? Did you do the work yourself? My blog - www.anacreinhampshire.blogspot.co.uk
110 TD5 BuildHERE - sold! 110 Tdci Build HERE - sold! Passat Alltrack - 4x4, auto, 45mpg, gloriously comfortable - but not a Defender! |
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2nd Oct 2015 6:55am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17240 
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Your symptoms don't really sound to me like a restrictor fault, and too think it is likely to be slave cylinder.
The restrictor is outside the bellhousing, effectively it is fitted between the inlet to the slave cylinder (this inlet is also outside the bellhousing, though the cylinder is of course inside) and the pipe from the master cylinder. I had a quick look online for a photo of the arrangement, but evey photo I can find of the Defender MT82 transmission shows the offside of the box, and the clutch pipework is on the nearside! It actually isn't too big a job to get at the clutch on a TDCi Defender, and it does give you a good opportunity to inspect and lubricate the output adaptor shaft at the same time. Is your vehicle under warranty still? |
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2nd Oct 2015 9:18am |
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| SiWhite Member Since: 19 Jan 2010 Location: North Hampshire Posts: 455
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Thanks for your thoughts fellas. Sadly no warranty.
I think I'll have to bite the bullet and get her booked in to my (not so) local but trusted indie. The vehicle is 2009 so I guess a late model clutch will be more reliable as well. My blog - www.anacreinhampshire.blogspot.co.uk 110 TD5 BuildHERE - sold! 110 Tdci Build HERE - sold! Passat Alltrack - 4x4, auto, 45mpg, gloriously comfortable - but not a Defender! |
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2nd Oct 2015 9:26am |
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| blackwolf Member Since: 03 Nov 2009 Location: South West England Posts: 17240
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Ah, I wasn't sure if it was the 2013 model in your avatar or not.
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2nd Oct 2015 12:20pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 7908 
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Si - i would put money on the slabe, the bumps driving it along help it leak! do the job yourself. if mileage is around £50-60k i would split the T box off the gbox and check the int drive too for lube. add as required. its not a tricky job to do. i would do slave, master, and restrictor all in one. note that the slave and restrictor have a 3rd adaptor peice to join them get all three as some bore sizes vary. its very annoying to find that out when its all in bits on the floor. Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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2nd Oct 2015 1:00pm |
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| Lorryman100 Member Since: 01 Oct 2010 Location: Here Posts: 2686 |
No I saved myself the time by getting an indy to do it.  |
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2nd Oct 2015 11:47pm |
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