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jolySoft



Member Since: 07 Sep 2015
Location: UK
Posts: 2

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Replacing wing top chequer plate
I have a 2011 puma 110 XS and would like to replace the what I believe is factory fitted (or may be dealer fitted) wing top chequer plate. Unfortunately it's been riveted with no gasket and would like to freshen it up. I'm new to this wonderful world and wondered if there standard for the hole placement for factory fitted plate? I spoke to someone that told me that with either mammouth or shadow I stood a good chance of them fitting but no guarantees. I'd really like to avoid filling or replacing the wing. Has anyone else done this, I'm sure they have.

Many thanks for any advice.

EDIT: Also I'd like to fit something KBX Hi Force air intake. Are there any chequer plates I should avoid.


Last edited by jolySoft on 7th Sep 2015 2:59pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #453052 7th Sep 2015 2:49pm
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
We have replaced Genuine chequer plate before with new Genuine chequer plate (both with identical part numbers on stickers on the plates) and the holes have been in totally different locations

Of course the old holes will be covered by the new chequer plate

Welcome to the forum Thumbs Up
Post #453053 7th Sep 2015 2:51pm
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ibexman



Member Since: 13 Dec 2008
Location: Essex
Posts: 2954

United Kingdom 
Why not get the old ones powder coated
Post #453096 7th Sep 2015 5:17pm
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YOLO110



Member Since: 14 Feb 2015
Location: Perth Oz and Stansted UK
Posts: 1646

Australia 
Go Beyond wrote:
We have replaced Genuine chequer plate before with new Genuine chequer plate (both with identical part numbers on stickers on the plates) and the holes have been in totally different locations

Of course the old holes will be covered by the new chequer plate:


Drainage under checker plate is a good thing! Laughing YOLO... You Only Live Once...
Post #453130 7th Sep 2015 6:49pm
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Jonno1968



Member Since: 24 Oct 2013
Location: Leicestershire
Posts: 245

United Kingdom 2010 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Orkney Grey
I have just done it...replaced aluminium with powder coated black. The old one was riveted and the new one was bolted and actually a different size. My main concern was that the new one would not cover the old holes but it does...just. Drilling out the old rivets is best done by finding the right size drill bit to drill all the way through the old rivets. Don't just take the head off with a large drill bit....if you do you will be left with rivet studs still sticking out of the bodywork and tricky to drill out without causing damage to the now exposed bodywork. Be brave and drill right through with a 3-4 mm bit. If the new ones are bolted you will need some thin arms to reach through for the nuts underneath....this is more tricky on the off side at the front and best done with the headlight removed due to the horn being in the way! Good luck.
Post #453144 7th Sep 2015 7:34pm
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jolySoft



Member Since: 07 Sep 2015
Location: UK
Posts: 2

2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Thanks very much for the help everyone. I might get the old ones powered coated and try and find a gasket to fit or cover the holes with a new plate.

On a side note (I've only been a Landy owner for 19 days now) I'm very impressed that most Landy driver wave to each other. How very civilized.

Once again thanks for the help, now to find my 4mm drill bit
Post #453282 8th Sep 2015 8:56am
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Happyoldgit



Member Since: 14 Sep 2007
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 3471

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 USW Corris Grey
If you want to refit with gaskets get a sheet of closed cell foam and cut new gaskets to suit, you don't want open cell as it holds water. Alternatively use thin rubber sheet or bond the edges with a decent sealer. Steve.
Owned numerous Land Rover vehicles of all shapes and sizes over the decades.
Current Defender: A non tarts hand-bagged Puma 110 XS USW.

[Insert something impressive here such as extensive list of previous Land Rovers or examples of your prestigeous and expensive items, trinkets, houses, bikes, vehicles etc]

http://forums.lr4x4.com

I used to be Miserable ...but now I'm ecstatic.
Post #453302 8th Sep 2015 9:39am
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glpinxit



Member Since: 31 Jul 2010
Location: rural Somerset
Posts: 156

United Kingdom 
After lots of experience of chequer plate:
- factory comes with a thin closed-cell foam gasket and is normally screwed into rivnuts which are supplied in the kit (though I replace with nylock stainless nuts);
- factory black is anodised and not powder coated. This is much better as it does not fade or peel - even after six years.
- the factory stuff is thicker than many others', but not all.
- factory is much more expensive but I've had both sorts and if you want black then I would choose it every time, and there are deals out there if you are patient. Cheers, Guy.
Post #453433 8th Sep 2015 6:59pm
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