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jiataowill



Member Since: 11 Nov 2015
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 5

Australia 2015 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 SW Fuji White
Install a pair of LED driving lights with a dash switch
It is a nice Sunday, and lucky I have some spare time as well, so shall I do some work for my big boy? Oh yeah!

Ok, lets start the work- Installing a pair of LED driving lights which I purchased online a few weeks ago, 185W each, 9 inch in size, black alloy case with a ARB sticker at front, oh excuse me, not ARB, it is actually LED Razz . Cost me AU$375, seller promised same build quality and brightness as ARB Intensity.


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Well, looks damn good for that price, but is it a real replacement of the intensity? We will find out.

Ok, I shall start working really, before it gets late. First thing, open the battery hatch, oh hold on, feels like I forget something. Oh yes, first thing- light up a smoke, wake me up, it is still early anyway.


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Now, we start with the battery area, I got some 50A cables from Autobarn, in red and black. Sure color doesn't really matter, you could use blue, yellow, pink, what ever color you like, just make sure you don't confuse yourself. Using 50A is an overkill to my current setup, but I just want to get half of the wiring done using high current cables so I don't need to replace them when I decide to add a few more things into the loom.

Drill a hole through the plastic blocker in battery cabin, insert the split tube through that hole, (you will have more dust if your hole is too much bigger size than the tube Laughing ) then push red cable into the tube.


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For negative lead, I just connect to a earthing point on the chassis. I was too lazy to remove the old bolt, I just add a stainless steel one on top of it. Other people may find an easier fit point, let me know then.


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Push the black cable into the tube, too, then all the way goes to the engine bay. Ok now, it is the hard part--to myself, I am one of the kind people calls "STUPID" Big Cry I use the diagram PaulMc posted in one other forum


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Wiring is quite simple except 86 of the relay, I need to find a feed in from dip bean circuit. first thing jumped to my head was the relay, so I opened the cover under steering column, put all my fingers over the relays trying to identify which one controls the dip beam. I turned high beam on-off, on-off, on-off, but I couldn't feel a single damn click, they are all so quiet. Maybe LR used some high-tech, advanced relays which do not click??? I started checking these relays, they are all ordinary ones, no deference from those we see in a 80s toyota. I googled "defender dip beam relay", then I know- THERE IS NO HEAD LIGHTS RELAYS IN LR DEFENDER Bow down all the current go through the switch directly. Are you kidding me???? I will see how long the switch is gonna to last.

Alright, whats next? Warning Lamp in the dash? Noway, too much work to do to find out the right cable. Fuse box? I couldn't get it out without pulling off the whole bracket, too much work, too. I ended it up by splitting the high beam cable, and connect an extra cable to it, witch is "too easy" I have to remove headlight cover, side light, turning signal, undo 4 tinny screws, pull the whole headlight out. I just want to ask: is there a shortcut if I need just to change the bulb???

I finally got 86 done anyway, 30 goes to hot, 87 goes to lights and switch LED, 85 goes to switch in. Problem is I need to get 87 & 85 into the cabin from engine bay. Boss won't be happy if she hears I am drilling through the metal parts. I finally figured out I could get these two thin cables through a rubber nipple.


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Besides the nipple there is a big bunch of cables go into the cabin, but I was sure I wouldn't want to undo the wrap and through the same place, so I CUT the nipple, yes I cut it Laughing and twist the two cables with a hedge trimmer line together, insert the pink line into the small hole, then pull the cables out from the other side. If you want to do the same, just make sue the hedge trimmer line is hard enough.


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All the hard works done, next pin the other end of the cables and insert into the connector supplied with the switch. For switch illumination, I simply connect to the power outlet bulb, just solder a cable to the connector, they are non-moving parts, so should be firm enough.


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Do the same for earthing cable, using power outlet connector as well.


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Now, everything connected to the switch is ready, just fit them in, and replace the center console. About the center console, it is not that easy to remove, I was really worried when I did that part, feels like it was going be damaged, but it is actually quite solid, you just need to use some force and courage of course Razz you may need to call your local dealer to make sure they have a spare one available. Laughing

Install lights to the bullbar, some dirty wiring works underneath the chassis, job done. Oh, don't forget the final step, connect the positive lead to battery.


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OK, ready to rock.

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Waiting for sunset then do some adjustment to the lights.

Lets see the result:


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Switch works fine, illumination & led indicator work fine. For the brightness, couldn't tell much from the pics, sorry about the Censored image quality, but thats what I can get use my phone. First pic shows high beam+ LED, second high beam only, there is actually a big difference, the leds project white light far brighter and further. I will compare with neighbor's LightForce HID once have a chance.

I m pretty happy with them, then we will watch its durability.


Last edited by jiataowill on 15th Nov 2015 11:01am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #472615 15th Nov 2015 8:06am
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Welshsurferdude



Member Since: 23 Feb 2012
Location: Newport
Posts: 2411

Wales 
let me know how you get on I have the same but 95w fitted 2008 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)

2015 Discovery 4.5 Black pack Firenze red XS

2008 Corris Grey 110 XS USW (sold)

2011 Santorini Black 110 XS USW (Sold)
Post #472648 15th Nov 2015 9:35am
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