 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Troubles installing door bolts |
 
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720   
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I decided to change the door bolts to the SS Nakatenga ones. Started yesterday evening, first bolt changed without any issues, second one gave me a headache already. Took the old bolt out no problem, but then installing the new one… Firstly I struggled to align it properly to fit in; once I did it was tightening up fine but by the end I must have overdone it as it’s now just spinning around without being able to tighten it up properly.
1. Any idea what I might have done wrong? I haven’t proceeded with other bolts yet to make sure I don’t do the same mistake. Couple pointers below, hoping someone can chip in based on their own experience. - I have used my cordless drill to undo the bolts. Kept it on a driver mode but had to select the top torque as they weren’t coming off. My normal cordless driver had no chance. So I’m thinking that perhaps I have already damaged the nut on the other side when undoing the bolt? Pain is I have no idea how to check the nut as it is the bottom hinge on rear doors fit to the pillar and I am guessing the nut is hidden in the bulkhead behind the front seats…you are probably guessing that my car DIY skills are very poor so I don’t even think about taking it apart. - Alternatively, I’m thinking I have damaged the nut when I tried to tighten up the new bolt – probably by using inappropriate torque setting on the driver. Hope it’s the latter, as I don’t know how I undo the rest of the bolts without using the driver on a high torque setting. 2. What have you used to undo the bolts and then to fit the new ones? - As mentioned, I used a drill with a high torque driver setting to undo the old bolts. Seemed impossible to do it by hand, but if that’s what the others are doing than I’ll grab some big bloke on the street and pay him to help 
- I did apply anti-seize paste to the new bolts. - I used the same driver to fit in the new bolt but maybe overdone it with the torque setting. 3. Need some ideas to fix the bloody thing that doesn’t want to tighten up now? - Since I think the nut is hidden in the bulk head behind the front seats I don’t even dare to take it apart – unless you guys are adamant that that’s what I have to do… - I’m thinking of buying a good quality metal to metal glue and fixing the bolt for good. I can still tighten it up a bit and thinking the glue will than do the rest, i.e. fix it in properly. Any help would be most welcome  MY15 Aintree 110 SW - for sale - https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic82781.html
MY16 Santorini 90 HT - sold |
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12th Aug 2015 9:59am |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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Have been pointed to the below useful threads by another member so copying them in here in case someone comes across this thread while searching for door bolts related issues:
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic32122....ing+policy http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic39322....inge+bolts |
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24th Aug 2015 4:28pm |
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| mikeh501 Member Since: 07 Jan 2013 Location: United Kingdom Posts: 1142
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If you can undo the bolts then remove the door and replace the captive nuts you've stripped. I undid mine with a impact screw driver to crack them off and did them up with an Allen key on a socket wrench. Just needs to be tight.
Have a look at this and all will become clear. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=defender...mp;bih=600 |
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24th Aug 2015 9:26pm |
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| discomog Member Since: 09 May 2015 Location: Notts/Lincs Border Posts: 2526 
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Hey Birdie, you don't think JK84 ate just one too many cans of spinach and that's why he stripped the bolt?
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25th Aug 2015 11:10am |
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| X4SKP Member Since: 29 Nov 2013 Location: Berkshire Posts: 2295 
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Hello jk84
Hopefully your fixed now, or have a plan to fix... 
The first link above was my experience, one captive nut snapped when gaining access to dinitrol into the bulk head area, so took the opportunity to replace all the M8 captive nuts to the 'new and improved type'. I think that the 2.4tdci generally have the 'gold type' shown on the left (mine was one of the last 2.4s) and the 2.2tdci now have the 'black type', the updated version which looks to be better, with around 30% more thread, also looks like an oil blackened spring steel, so possibly a superior product too, hope so at the LR Price... 
 Click image to enlarge old type and the new type of captive door nuts Click image to enlarge lowering the new captive nut into position with a bent piece of wire so as not to loose it into the cavity SKIP https://www.defender2.net/forum/topic83242.html |
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25th Aug 2015 11:18am |
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| bpman Member Since: 21 May 2008 Location: Oslo Posts: 8069 
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keep your existing land rover bolts and paint with a clear lacquer
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25th Aug 2015 11:25am |
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| jk84 Member Since: 17 Feb 2015 Location: Wherever my Defender takes me... Posts: 720
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Thank you for the comments chaps
SKIP - yep, all in progress now, j-nuts in the post, have started with the other bolts in the meantime. Thanks again for pointers to those threads! Steve - quite ingenious should have thought about it before I ordered the 90 quid Nakatenga set. In the end, not a biggie, at least have learned something new about my Landy  |
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26th Aug 2015 7:24am |
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