 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Koni shocks knocking rear bottom mounts |
 
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5741  
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When I ran Koni's they always clonked on the bottom mount, and eventually eat the bottom bushes. Changed across to superpro buses and solved problem.
Sure I did something else but can't remember. Andy |
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17th Sep 2014 7:56pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20495 
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Polybush bushes on mine but with standard shocks.
Ride is very good, went for the red performance ones. They aren't cheap though. |
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17th Sep 2014 8:01pm |
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| MartinK Member Since: 02 Mar 2011 Location: Silverdale (Lancashire/Cumbria Border) Posts: 2665 
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Yeah, I have Koni's too, and also put softer springs in my USW (written-up on this forum). I'm still pleased with my suspension now after 2 more years...
The large washers on the top of the shock should have the domed side innerwards (i.e. both domed sides facing the shock) allowing the shock to move laterally under articulation and the bushes to crush. The domed washer holds the metal sleeve on the inner of the shock It's only a couple of bolts on either side, I think if I were you I would take them off, inspect, and rebuild with a bit of grease... Also make sure the inner domed washer is present, and wasn't removed with the old shocks... 
IIRC the upper shock bolt should be 85nm, but suggest check the torque settings and make sure they're tight enough This youtube video shows the rear shock at around the 6 minute mark, and also just before the end &list=PLC62A3CA8C84C7815 Defender "Puma" 2.4 110 County Utility (possibly the last of the 2.4's) |
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18th Sep 2014 7:23am |
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| uncas Member Since: 22 Nov 2012 Location: Wentworth near Rotherham Posts: 340
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My procomps rattle like a marble in a dustbin I've got new bushes to fit this weekend.
Uncas |
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18th Sep 2014 10:08am |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226 
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Cheers for the advice guys, and especially to Martin K
 . I suspect that the top mounts simply aren't done up tight enough, but will have a check over the weekend. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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19th Sep 2014 11:48am |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20495
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There is little vertical movmentnt in the top mounts in fact hardly any even if a bit loose. (Only horizontal)
Far more likely the lower mounts, are they seated correctly? If you can spin the lower part of the shock by hand its too loose. |
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19th Sep 2014 2:08pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Bit of an update on this one, and seeking further advice / ideas! Fully appreciate that I'm at risk of sounding like a broken record, but someone might have had similar experiences.
In order to try to solve the knocking shocks problem, I had new OEM rubber bushes fitted throughout, which made a big difference and a major improvement. We isolated the knocking noise to the bottom shock mounts at the back by replacing the bottom mount bushes with new ones and then going for a road test - knocking noise gone. Anyway, the new bushes are now around 2000 miles old and the knocking has returned! The problem seems to be with the geometry of the Koni shocks and how they sit in the bottom mounts on the axle. It appears that when the axle is evenly loaded (side to side) things are OK. However, when one side is loaded (and hence the other unloaded) i.e. when cornering, the geometry gets thrown out with the result that the uppermost bush retaining washer comes into contact with the cup on the axle mount, which produces the very annoying knocking noise. So it seems I have a few options: 1: replace the bottom mount bushes every 2000 miles (not ideal) 2: Change back to genuine shocks which I never had any problems with in terms of knocking (and maybe look at changing the springs to soften the ride a little) 3: grind the cups off the axle mounts so the washers can't hit them (don't really want to do that) 4: try to find a replacement bush that is thicker than standard to create more separation between the washer and the cup Can anybody tell me if there is a difference in the rear suspension mounts between my 2005 Td5 90 and a newer Puma 90? I am confused as to the number of forum members who appear to be running Koni shocks with no issues, and mine have had this knocking issue from day 1. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green |
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20th Jul 2015 8:06pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8099  
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if you wanted to prolong bush life and improve articulation then grinding off the cups is a std procedure for those fitting +5" shocks (normally pin/pin)
i would suggest you bushes are compressing over time (2000 miles in this case) allowing the contact. Either space out the bushes with more bushes (or even half a bush), replace with new (could try different brand) or cut off the cups. personally i would cut off the cups. Cheers James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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20th Jul 2015 8:25pm |
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| Green Machine Member Since: 19 Nov 2010 Location: North Yorkshire Posts: 1226
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Cheers for the reply James. Just done a bit of research on MicroCat and it seems that a Puma does have a different setup to earlier models in that it doesn't seem to have the cups on the axle mounts. As a result, there are fewer washers involved in the Puma setup. This may explain why those with Konis on Pumas don't have the problem that I am having. I wonder if someone with a Puma 90 would be kind enough to take a photo of their rear bottom shock mounts to confirm this? Thanks in advance. 2005 Td5 | 90 Station Wagon | Tonga Green
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20th Jul 2015 8:32pm |
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| jst Member Since: 14 Jan 2008 Location: Taunton Posts: 8099
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Some of them do have the cups Cheers
James 110 2012 XS Utility 130 2011 M57 bespoke Camper 90 2010 Hardtop 90 M57 1988 Hardtop |
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21st Jul 2015 7:35pm |
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| Devon-Rover Member Since: 22 Jan 2015 Location: South Devon Posts: 918 
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A lot of aftermarket dampers come with the Caveat that the rear cups are to be removed when fitting them. Due to the larger washers and bushed used, and that over time as the bushes compact causing the washers to hit the cup.
On large articulation it might be possible for contact between cup and washer could cause failure of the unit. http://www.bearmach.com/books/Performance/...age13.html |
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21st Jul 2015 7:48pm |
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