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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Help with fitting a new head unit please? [Solved]
Hi all - finally got my new cd/radio/bluetooth unit, a Pioneer DEH-X5700BT.

(Yes, I'd have liked a Clarion with a pop out screen for sat-nav, but I'm not in that budget league at present! Crying or Very sad )

Anyway, managed to get the old LR Visteon CD unit out and its nasty black tin tray it sat in. I am now confronted with a huge gaping void in the dash centre console.

What is he complaining about, I hear you ask... Well, I have plugged up the new unit and it all works fine but I am faced with three problems:

1. I need to route the cable for the bluetooth microphone somewhere - I was thinking just cutting a notch in the grey plastic centre console under the rubbery dash top and sneaking the mic just on top next to the ashtray?

2. I presumably need something to take the weight of the unit and cushion it from the, er, enthusiastic, suspension of a 110 in motion. The old LR unit had a rubberised prong screwed onto the back of it which located in a hole in the back (closest the bonnet) of the recess but I can't reuse this as there's no screwhole in my new radio because the heatsink is on the back of it.

3. The cage for my new radio doesn't fit the grey plastic surround from the LR unit Rolling Eyes . However, if I remove said surround there would be an even bigger gap!

I've sworn at it all, I have taken most of the dash top and dash units out and now it's pitch black outside so I've done up all the screws (I could find) and given up for tonight Mad . Any assistance gratefully received and if I haven't explained something very well please say and I'll try to provide pictures.


Last edited by bluebottle on 24th Jun 2015 5:46pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #433186 23rd Jun 2015 10:23pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
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Could you take a photo when you get a chance?
Post #433195 23rd Jun 2015 11:10pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
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United Kingdom 
Ok - here's a shot of the aperture.


Click image to enlarge


As you can see there is the slot which is empty - this should be a single DIN right? It's slightly too narrow for the cage around the radio I have bought.

So the problem I have is that there is nothing inside this hole to bolt/screw/clip the cage or bare radio into?
Post #433245 24th Jun 2015 8:07am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
I know yours isn't a Puma.....The original Puma stereo didn't have a cage it had two metal edging strips either side of the unit. I was wondering perhaps if you removed your surround and sourced these edging strips if yours would fit? Weight could be taken up by high density foam perhaps? You could also source a universal cage that you just bend the tabs out on, these are very good and can offer lots of support for the unit. Difficult to gauge really. If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #433253 24th Jun 2015 8:23am
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Clive



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Littleborough
Posts: 467

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 90 Td5 X-Tech LE Zambezi Silver
I can't comment on the Pioneer unit, but I recently had a Becker unit in mine and that one fitted without an additional cage, the "clamping" bits were directly on the radio itself.

Some kind of support at the back of the radio would be essential I would have thought, the adaptor plate in the dash is only held in with a couple of flimsy springs and would provide very little support itself.

As to the BT Mic, I've just upgraded mine to an Alpine unit with BT, I fitted the mic at the top of driver side A pillar trim, then ran the wire down the trim and through the dash behind the speedo/clocks, ideally you want to get it as close as possible to your face to pick up your voice with a minimum of external noise, also saves having to cut any notches/holes anywhere.
Post #433268 24th Jun 2015 9:31am
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
K9F wrote:
I know yours isn't a Puma.....The original Puma stereo didn't have a cage it had two metal edging strips either side of the unit. I was wondering perhaps if you removed your surround and sourced these edging strips if yours would fit? Weight could be taken up by high density foam perhaps? You could also source a universal cage that you just bend the tabs out on, these are very good and can offer lots of support for the unit. Difficult to gauge really.


Here's the radio:


Click image to enlarge

Here's the hole:


Click image to enlarge

And, here's what LR had fitted...


Click image to enlarge


I'm wondering if I need a universal cage since I have the one which goes almost half depth of the unit which came with it. It seems to have tabs for bending out - my issue is how to secure the rear end of the radio unit to support it?
Maybe I should just accept that fabrication of parts is beyond my ability to do in anything other than bodging style and go to Halfords or a garage to have them see if they can fit it...?
Post #433275 24th Jun 2015 9:55am
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gilarion



Member Since: 05 Dec 2013
Location: Wales
Posts: 5111

Wales 2007 Defender 90 Other CSW Trident Green
I fitted a SONY something or other about three years ago! I just slotted it in without any side supports and it has been fine ever since. It is also handy if I ever want to get to the back of the switches as all I have to do is slide it out without the use of any tools.
I worked on the assumption right or wrong that the head unit came over from Japan and then came via Amazon via their Careful couriers Whistle so on its journey to me it must have received quite a few knocks and shocks so the odd bump in the Land Rover is not going to harm it. Wink For those who like Welsh Mountains and narrow boats have a look at my videos and photos at..

http://www.youtube.com/user/conwy1
Post #433276 24th Jun 2015 9:55am
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LRmud



Member Since: 22 Oct 2014
Location: IV12 Highland
Posts: 198

Scotland 1989 Defender 90 300 Tdi HT Baltic Blue
Is it possible to cut/file the existing plastic surround a little bit all round, to get the new cage to fit?
Is the plastic strong enough to support the weight? If so, then there is no need to add a rear support.

If it all goes pear-shaped, I'm pretty sure you could get a spare/replacement plastic surround from fleabay.
Best of luck Thumbs Up --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1989 Defender 90
Toyota Aygo & Honda FR-V
Post #433288 24th Jun 2015 10:51am
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6610

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
Does the new stereo not come with a new rubber piece to locate at the back? It's a standard fitting so I would be amazed if there is not one. Can you post a photo of the back of the new unit?

You also need to fit the new cage to the dash, yes it's only half the length but that is correct.

Martin  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #433314 24th Jun 2015 12:37pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6610

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
How much too narrow is the apeture for the new cage?  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #433315 24th Jun 2015 12:40pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Martin wrote:
Does the new stereo not come with a new rubber piece to locate at the back? It's a standard fitting so I would be amazed if there is not one. Can you post a photo of the back of the new unit?


Your wish etc... Here's the back:


Click image to enlarge


The other things in the box (apart from the manuals and the microphone) were these:


Click image to enlarge



In answer to the second question - it's almost the right size, I think I'd only have to shave a few mil off the inside edges of the plastic with a stanley knife and it'd go. I was tempted to force it but don't want to bend the long edges inwards for fear of them buckling.
Post #433356 24th Jun 2015 2:31pm
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Martin
Site Admin


Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6610

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
The items in the second picture are the keys to remove it from the cage once fitted.

I have pulled up the installation manual on the web (only in Portuguese!) and there is no rubber bung part, and there is no thread tapped in to the heat sink, so Pioneer obviously consider it unnecessary Thumbs Up  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #433358 24th Jun 2015 2:42pm
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bluebottle



Member Since: 08 May 2015
Location: Not in my Landy enough!
Posts: 705

United Kingdom 
Yep - that's right, and I'm glad Pioneer are so relaxed about it... My issue is that there's literally nothing to hold the radio in place if I jam it in other than a tiny amount of friction from the thin plastic surround which appears to be held in by four half rusted paperclips! Shocked (I know they're some kind of spring but they're not exactly sturdy!)
Post #433360 24th Jun 2015 2:45pm
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Martin
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Member Since: 02 Apr 2007
Location: Hook Norton
Posts: 6610

United Kingdom 2015 Defender 90 Puma 2.2 XS CSW Montalcino Red
With the cage fitted and "tabbed" into place, it'll be secure.  1988 90 Td5 NAS soft top
2015 D90 XS SW
Post #433361 24th Jun 2015 2:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
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Get some super strong adhesive and bond it on, it doesn't take much weight so it shouldn't cause any trouble.
I can understand your concern, I'd rather it was there especially in a Defender being banged about!

The cage needs to go in first then the HU not the two at the same time, if that makes sense.
It should just fit in the hole in the dash and bend the tabs back to lock it in behind the plastic.
The HU should then slide in and click once locked.
Make sure cables are all connected first and no wires are trapped.
As Martin mentioned above the metal bits are the keys to get it out if you need to.
They slide in each side of the HU to unlock it from some tabs and then it will come out.

If the cage doesn't just slide in which I think is your problem it's probably just a tight fit.
Judge this yourself but if it really really is too tight file the plastic down slightly.
It needs to be tight enough to take the cage but not so tight that it needs forcing in or gets deformed.

Also wear gloves, or at least I would as these cages can easily slice your hands or fingers!
Once the cage is fitted you won't need to touch it again.

Thumbs Up
Post #433392 24th Jun 2015 5:28pm
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