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Little Tom



Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 134

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
New Key
Hi,

Can anyone recomend an good auto locksmith in the Preston / Lancashire area? I now only have the key fob and ignition key and no door keys. If anyone knows of a better sollution I would be happy to hear from you.

Thanks

Tom Michael was just telling me a story about a friend of his who slept with a land rover, lonely nights in the desert..
Post #298643 14th Jan 2014 10:51am
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davew



Member Since: 02 Jan 2012
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 888

England 1990 Defender 90 V8 Petrol PU Auto Rioja Red
Just change the door lock barrels for a new set ? Probably much cheaper than a locksmith.

Assuming you have the early door locks where the ignition key and door keys are different a new set of 3 or 5 barrels with keys can be bought new for under 20 quid. When I bought a 5 barrel set each barrel came with a key (all the same as they were in a set) ! I had more spare keys than I knew what to do with Smile

You could also change over to the later style barrels which is a more expensive option but you end up with a new ignition barrel and a set of door barrels, complete with new keys. the ignition key is then used for the doors too and is potentially marginally more secure. To use these on older Defenders will require replacement door handles and a replacement rear door lock mechanism so it's not a cheap option - think it cost me around £200 all in when I converted Pam's 90. You have to replace the handles and rear door lock because the newer barrels are longer and wider. http://www.yorkshireoffroadclub.net/
Post #298662 14th Jan 2014 11:46am
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geobloke



Member Since: 06 Nov 2012
Location: Nottinghamshire
Posts: 4410

United Kingdom 
Re: New Key
Little Tom wrote:
Hi,

Can anyone recomend an good auto locksmith in the Preston / Lancashire area? I now only have the key fob and ignition key and no door keys. If anyone knows of a better sollution I would be happy to hear from you.

Thanks

Tom


Hi Tom. If you have a TD5 then the ignition key is the door lock key as well. Is on mine anyway, 2002 TD5. Well it would do if some scroat hadn't stuck a screwdriver in the drivers door last year. Still opens the rear door though.
Post #298665 14th Jan 2014 11:49am
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Little Tom



Member Since: 20 Aug 2013
Location: Lancashire
Posts: 134

United Kingdom 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Thanks to you both for replies Thumbs Up . My old 2002 TD5 had a sperate key for the ignition and the door locks. This is my newer 2004 TD5 which didnt come with the door key. Ive tried the ignition ket in the door locks several times but it doesnt go all the way in, I've tried WD40 on it just to make sure but it still doesnt seem to work.

It hasnt bothered me too much as I have the remote but as time goes on I know im heading for trouble if I dont have a back up to the door remote. Looks like those replcament locks might be the answer unless anyone else can convince me to persist with the WD40 option?

Tom Michael was just telling me a story about a friend of his who slept with a land rover, lonely nights in the desert..
Post #298711 14th Jan 2014 1:52pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17387

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
If the lock barrel has siezed up it may take a lot of work (and WD40) to get any motion. When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).

I bought a complete keyed alike genuine steering lock assembly and drivers door lock barrel of Ebay at the time fo a very modest price - something like £25 IIRC - although I didn't actually need it in the end.
Post #298715 14th Jan 2014 2:07pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Hmmm, this is interesting. I have been spraying releasing oil into my seized door lock for over week now and nothing gives. I have beeen a little bit nervous about forcing it with my ignition key to free it up. I take it then with patience and persistance it can be done with Censored up the ignition key. Very good to know thank you !
Post #425359 21st May 2015 5:16pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
Yes, lots of patience and persistence as the locks probably have never been used due to central locking but they should free up eventually. Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #425363 21st May 2015 5:43pm
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 333

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Rimini Red
blackwolf wrote:
If the lock barrel has siezed up it may take a lot of work (and WD40) to get any motion. When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).

I bought a complete keyed alike genuine steering lock assembly and drivers door lock barrel of Ebay at the time fo a very modest price - something like £25 IIRC - although I didn't actually need it in the end.



This is interesting - my 2002 TD5 won't open by key on the passenger side, but works fine with the remote. The ign key works OK for the drivers and rear door though! I'd better go and stock up on WD40!!!
Post #425566 22nd May 2015 2:47pm
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Supacat



Member Since: 16 Oct 2012
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 11018

United Kingdom 2013 Defender 110 Puma 2.2 XS DCPU Keswick Green
Would some proper graphite made for locks be better than wd40?
Post #425581 22nd May 2015 4:26pm
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mk1collector



Member Since: 17 Sep 2009
Location: West Yorkshire
Posts: 6769

England 2004 Defender 110 Td5 CSW Bonatti Grey
I'd use wd to get it moving then tonnes of brake cleaner in to degrease then leave to dry then add graphite powder Ray
My build thread
http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic17615.html
Post #425629 22nd May 2015 7:19pm
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SteveK



Member Since: 21 Jan 2015
Location: Bromsgrove
Posts: 333

United Kingdom 2002 Defender 110 Td5 HT Rimini Red
Hmm WD40 hasn't done much so far! It feels like it is the wrong key - just won't move!!
Post #425673 22nd May 2015 10:44pm
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
So I squirted in releasing oil once a day for ten days and now the key goes in all the way. The lock doesn't turn though. I will keep squirting and gently turning and I will let you know.
Post #425719 23rd May 2015 10:37am
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Charlie Spitfire



Member Since: 16 May 2015
Location: Chartres
Posts: 55

France 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 HT Tonga Green
Still squirting oil into it, still can't turn the lock Sad
Post #427986 2nd Jun 2015 9:52am
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Grey110



Member Since: 20 Jun 2012
Location: Delft
Posts: 35

Netherlands 
Sounds like an over sensitive anti theft mechanism. Did you try to reboot?

Rolling with laughter Martin

Previous 2003 Defender 110 Hardtop TD5
2004 Defender 110 Station Wagon TD5 - Libyan Sand
2005 Discovery 3 - V8 - Black
Post #428218 2nd Jun 2015 9:46pm
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20378

United Kingdom 
blackwolf wrote:
When I bought my Puma, the previous owner hadn't used the key lock on the door for at least a year, possibly 3, and the key wouldn't go in. It took me about an hour of work with WD40 and the key to get some life back into it, but it did free off in the end. I now make sure that I use the key in the lock every now and again to make sure it doesn't seize. Just be careful not to apply excess force to the key when turning (I seem to remember that I did have to tap the key to get it all the way into the lock to start with).


Good point, I don't think I've used the manual locks at all in 5 years! Confused

I do now at least have three keys, one original Leyland type. Whistle And two new style ones which Timpsons cut which was a good job!
Post #428223 2nd Jun 2015 9:57pm
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