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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Help needed specifing heating in workshop
We have a new workshop being built and I wondered if there were a heating expert on here that could help us out please.

The building will be 18m x 9m with the eaves at 3.3m and the ridge at 4.2m

The walls and roof are 40mm thick insulated composite panels

The doors are 9' x 10' steel roller shutters (not insulated) and there are four of them

I want to use the most cost effective form of heating and maintain a minimum year round temperature suitable for keeping stock dry whilst being able to up the temperature when working in the building.

We have electricity but no gas but am happy to use propane cylinders.

We don't have waste oil available.

Which specific product would best suit our needs ?

Thank you in anticipation.
Post #420824 3rd May 2015 9:20am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
gas heater with flue , so no flumes

and get a heater bigger then you need , get it warm quicker and set on thermostat

the heater ( oil fired , not waste oil ) im using was out of 1 of my workshops I closed down , its now in my hobby workshop which is about 6 times smaller , so heats up really fast , cold frosty morning nip out put heater on , back in cup of tea , back out it up to temp and then uses thermostat , in a few mins it will go from workshop temp to spray booth temp !!!

could you have one of the big big static cyl ( one they fill from lorry ) , works out cheaper


Last edited by munch90 on 3rd May 2015 9:33am. Edited 2 times in total
Post #420827 3rd May 2015 9:30am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Thank you, that's pretty much the conclusion I'd come too Thumbs Up

I'll be buying new so would appreciate views on specific products that will heat the space economically Bow down
Post #420828 3rd May 2015 9:32am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
could you have one of the big big static cyl ( one they fill from lorry ) , works out cheaper

id look on ebay quite often see them on there

all workshop heaters now have to draw fresh air from outside the building so they never going to be that efficient as one that's warming already warm air istead of having to heat stone cold air , then you got the fact of as your drawing cold air in to heat your pushing warm air out of building Rolling Eyes


Last edited by munch90 on 3rd May 2015 9:37am. Edited 1 time in total
Post #420829 3rd May 2015 9:33am
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Go Beyond



Member Since: 30 Jan 2012
Location: Headcorn, Kent
Posts: 6678

United Kingdom 
Possibly, although I'm not sure the usage is big enough to justify it especially as the building is insulated.

What I'm really after is an installer who can work out specifics for me (and possibly quote to install ?)
Post #420830 3rd May 2015 9:35am
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
on some heater websites there are calulators you can use to work out by size etc

apart from that sorry cant help
Post #420831 3rd May 2015 9:40am
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couplands



Member Since: 31 Aug 2011
Location: Peak District & Cornwall
Posts: 1826

United Kingdom 2001 Defender 90 Td5 HT Oslo Blue
When I was planning my large workshop/garage I was hoping to use some form of air-sourced heating pump and/or solar panels and PV panels.

I didn't get as far as looking as the business case for such an investment, but it might be another option..?

cheers

simon
Post #420890 3rd May 2015 1:39pm
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excossack



Member Since: 22 Feb 2012
Location: North West
Posts: 5858

United Kingdom 1999 Defender 110 Td5 SW Caledonian Blue
Any mileage on underfloor heating? Maybe off a separate gas boiler powered by propane? Or wood burner with back boiler to heat water for underfloor/tap water? 1999 Defender TD5 110

Regards
John M0VAZ
Econet Station 48 no clock
Post #421061 4th May 2015 12:58pm
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Cupboard



Member Since: 21 Mar 2014
Location: Suffolk
Posts: 2971

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 HT Corris Grey
Bottled gas, whether bulk or not, is still a very expensive way to heat things.

Have you thought about wood chip? For a non domestic installation like that you'd easily get the Renewable Heat Incentive for it and woodchips are about the cheapest for of heat behind mains gas anyway. Pellets are "nicer" but more expensive.

Do you have a forklift, telehandler or anything?
Post #421286 5th May 2015 12:00pm
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steventheplumber



Member Since: 29 Apr 2014
Location: Lincolnshire
Posts: 767

England 1987 Defender 90 200 Tdi HT Keswick Green
You may be up for a grant, do check as they often change. I would look at a wood pellet boiler. https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/environmental-pro...entive-rhi
Post #421361 5th May 2015 4:34pm
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LiftedDisco



Member Since: 17 Aug 2014
Location: Towcester
Posts: 354

 
You've actually got two very different requirements as you talk about heating and yet your driver appears to be keeping stock dry...

So, critically, if you heat the air, it will actually carry higher moisture content and the most efficient way to keep materials 'dry' or extend their life is by using a dessicant dehumidifier. If you can keep the Relative Humidity (RH) below 50% (45% is better), you can store most things at an ambient temperature. One of our clients stores charcoal with a simple dehumidifier - this is a product that turns to dust if you allow it to get damp, whilst another stores food grade cardboard packaging.

One upside of the process is that the reactivation cycle will heat the incoming air - effectively your 'dry' air will always be 2-3degC warmer than the external temperature.

If you need heating, then the suggestion of an air source heat pump and underfloor heating has merit as you will get a CoP (Coefficient of Performance) of around 4.5:1 so every kW of energy that goes in, you will get around 4.5 out. Ground source can be even more efficient but you need to bury the pipework (or go deep with piles etc) to reap the benefits.

PM me if you need more info on dehumidification!
Post #422685 11th May 2015 4:01pm
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ginjez



Member Since: 18 Sep 2011
Location: huddersfield
Posts: 1763

2011 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 ST Santorini Black
Matt,
Why are you not putting on an insulated door if you are heating the unit? Not only will it not comply with current reg's but you will potentially have condensation forming on the inside which is something you are trying to avoid.
Is your unit going to be classed as agricultural as 40mm composites seem quite thin also?

Definitely seek advice on using gas as it puts moisture in the air by its very nature. Apologies if my comments seem negative but your first cost should be your last on a new build and cheap isn't always economical Thumbs Up

Good luck with your project.
Post #422731 11th May 2015 7:08pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Gas heating is ok if you got a flue/chimney, its the space style portable heaters that can give moisture problems
Post #422736 11th May 2015 7:41pm
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gumdrop



Member Since: 16 Jan 2010
Location: North Yorkshire
Posts: 126

United Kingdom 
Look at Biomass - wood pellets see .....

https://www.ofgem.gov.uk/environmental-pro...mestic-rhi Cheers

Simon
-------------------------
50th D90 - my toy!
Freelander SE Td4 3 door - local run around
1958 Series 1- Rag top!
Post #422750 11th May 2015 8:09pm
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