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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Shocks
Went to MOT this morning: red card Crying or Very sad
Back right shock not good.
Then they said there was a problem with both bottom rubbers of the shocks: when lifting the car they deformed.

Is this normal? Is tjis the cause of the supposed bad shock damper? Just tighten or replace?
Post #404637 5th Mar 2015 9:36am
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
Rear lower shock bushes on a 110 wear quite quickly.

As your's is a 2011, I'm not surprised they need replacing.

The genuine bushes are very cheap, but if you need the top ones, then you need a press to get them in. I changed mine for Poly as you don't need a press.

Here is a topic when I found mine were worn, also has a guide to fitting Poly bushes in there.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic21496.html Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #404642 5th Mar 2015 9:54am
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custom90



Member Since: 21 Jan 2010
Location: South West, England.
Posts: 20177

United Kingdom 
Poly's on mine too. Thumbs Up
Post #404658 5th Mar 2015 10:48am
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Polybushes are a MOT no-no here in Belgium.

Thx, reassuring that it's just that... I hope Very Happy

So it's just removing the nut, put in new bush, retighten the nut?
Post #404659 5th Mar 2015 10:51am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
Simple search reveals 'A How To' with pictures........... Whistle

You will need to drill the old top ones if you do them which is worthwhile to get them out or use a press if you have access to one.

http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic21496....p;start=15 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!


Last edited by K9F on 5th Mar 2015 12:19pm. Edited 1 time in total
Post #404661 5th Mar 2015 10:56am
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NickH



Member Since: 02 Nov 2014
Location: Halifax
Posts: 204

England 2003 Defender 90 Td5 PU Rimini Red
No No NO

The top bushes take less than 5 mins if you have a vice

Hold the top shocker loop in the vice, squirt wd40 or similar around the old bush.

Put a half inch socket extension vertically through the hole in the bush and wack it with a big hammer

Hey presto the bush will come out of the shocker with one hit.

Use the vice to squash the new bush into the shocker, use washing up liquid as a lubricant on the bush.

Go for a brew Thumbs Up 2003 Td5 90
2013 sport hse
2012 700 raptor quad
2012 siromer 4x4 tractor
Post #404672 5th Mar 2015 11:22am
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grumpy old git



Member Since: 16 Nov 2013
Location: United Kingdom
Posts: 153

United Kingdom 
It's a simple job to do, genuine bushes are only a few £ and it takes about half an hour a side. I don't have a press, but use a bench vice to press the top bush in. The metal sleeve in the centre keeps it square and some silicon lube makes it easy! The hardest part of the job is removing the lower nut, I use a rubber grip, can't remember the name but it is a handle with a rubber strip that wraps around and threads back into the handle, make sure the outer tube of the shock is clean though or it'll slip.

EDIT: Obviously too slow at typing!
Post #404677 5th Mar 2015 11:32am
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5590

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
Isn't the post talking about bottom damper bushes?

If so, it's just a case of undoing the bottom nut on the damper, swapping bushes for new, and reassemble. Worse bit maybe trying to stop the damper spinning whilst undoing nut.

Andy
Post #404689 5th Mar 2015 11:51am
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K9F



Member Since: 12 Nov 2009
Location: Bournemouth
Posts: 9610

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
grumpy old git wrote:
I use a rubber grip, can't remember the name but it is a handle with a rubber strip that wraps around and threads back into the handle,


Strap wrench. Thumbs Up

https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/strap-wrenches If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!

Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!!
Post #404701 5th Mar 2015 12:20pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
Yes, only the bottom ones, though I'll check the top ones as well to make sure.
Is a powerwrench a no-no for the bottom nut or will it just not work anyway?
Post #404708 5th Mar 2015 12:52pm
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landy andy



Member Since: 15 Feb 2009
Location: Ware, Herts
Posts: 5590

2006 Defender 110 Td5 USW Zermatt Silver
If a powerwrench is a nut gun, then yes they are ideal for undoing the bottom nut. Would suggest doing up via a hand ratchet though.
Post #404716 5th Mar 2015 1:41pm
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x-isle



Member Since: 26 May 2011
Location: Midlands
Posts: 1327

Wales 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Santorini Black
If you follow my guide I posted earlier and just ignore anything to do with the top mounts, then you're all good to go. You won't need to remove the top mount at all, it can be done with the shock left in place.

It's only the bottom ones that are prone to wearing quickly. In the UK a set of bottom mounts (to do both sides) cost me about £4 for geniune. In the end I didn't use them.

I'd send them to you if I knew they'd get there quicker than you can get for yourself.

The Belguiks (a name that's a joke I had with some locals when I worked in Belgium) always amaze me with some of their rules. Why are Poly bushes banned? It's not a safety concern nor is it really performance upgrade? Craig Rogers

2007 Puma 110 XS
2011 Evoque Coupe Dynamic Lux
www.craigrogers.photography
Post #404717 5th Mar 2015 1:44pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17240

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
I find that the (genuine) lower bushes typically last 3 to 6 months (equivalent to 6 to 12 thousand miles in my case). I now replace them before each MOT.

They are not a very satisfactory feature in terms of durability, but I understand that there can be problems if you fit firmer bushes on a vehicle which works for a living.
Post #404731 5th Mar 2015 3:18pm
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zone30



Member Since: 07 Sep 2012
Location: Gent
Posts: 669

Belgium 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 X-Tech LE Nara Bronze
I think it has to do with vehicle conformity.
Same for when a car is fitted with drum brakes, you may not replace them with discs.
Same with vented/solid discs...

Once they are 25yr old, you only need to go to MOT one last time to check if it has brakes and doesn't leak exessively (basically) but you can do whatever you want then...

Stupid rules.

I agree with safety issues, but disallow enhancements...?

@x-isle: thx but it'll cost more in shipping cost compared to its actual cost.
Maybe keep'm fir someone more local. cheers!
Post #404771 5th Mar 2015 7:08pm
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