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| 110tow Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2   
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Evening all.
When I got my 110 there was a 1000w sealey inverter bolted to the racking which ive never used. I had a bit of free time today so squared a few jobs away. When I turned the inverter on the "low voltage" buzzer and light came on. I checked it with my multimeter and there's 14v's going to it until I switch the inverter on and then it drops down to to 10.6v across the polls. Anyone got any experience with these? I'm guessing it's fubar'd Cheers, James |
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2nd Mar 2015 9:26pm |
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| derbywill Member Since: 25 Mar 2010 Location: Derbyshire Posts: 558  
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So the voltage into the inverter is dropping to 10v ? If so sounds like a supply problem, a multimeter doesn't check the there's any current there only voltage try checking the connections and inline fuse if fitted
Regards Will 2005 90 XS 1954 86'' Series 1 tilt 1968 88” 2A 200tdi 2002 110 Hardtop |
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2nd Mar 2015 9:49pm |
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| custom90 Member Since: 21 Jan 2010 Location: South West, England. Posts: 20375
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What sort of gauge is the power and earth feeds cable?
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2nd Mar 2015 10:39pm |
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| 110tow Member Since: 05 Oct 2014 Location: Lincolnshire Posts: 2
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They are decent enough cable. I'll take a pic and see if I can see markings on them.
It used to work fine apparently. The inline fuse is fine as are the conections at both ends. I presumed the fault would be internal as the voltage drops when it's switched on however there's no instruction book and a look online hasn't told me anything obvious. Thanks for the replies |
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3rd Mar 2015 9:01am |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610 
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Dependant on the model you have there are instructions available here or you can contact them for previous models. The low voltage alarm comes on at 10.5 volts but the unit will not shut down until 10 volts so you should still have an ac output to this point. I would measure the output to see if you have one and check the supply and particularly the negative earth. To be sure I would run a temporary 'jury rig' earth straight back to the negative of the battery and measure both the input and outputs again as a comparison.
http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?...ctid=13068 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!! Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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3rd Mar 2015 9:25am |
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| shaggydog Member Since: 12 Aug 2012 Location: Kent Posts: 3347 
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Are you using it with the engine on?
I had a similar problem and it would only work with the engine on tick over or while driving. Running Restoration Thread http://www.defender2.net/forum/post323197.html#323197 Self confessed mileage hunter  |
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3rd Mar 2015 1:17pm |
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| K9F Member Since: 12 Nov 2009 Location: Bournemouth Posts: 9610
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At 14 volts going to the invertor in the first post the engine is either running or the battery has grown another cell.
 If you go through life with your head in the sand....all people will see is an ar5e!!
Treat every day as if it is your last....one day you will be right!! |
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3rd Mar 2015 1:57pm |
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| ozzie1989 Member Since: 25 Feb 2009 Location: Wales Posts: 282  
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Definately an issue with the wiring to the inverter here...
However don't be fooled, it may not be the positive supply that's the issue! How is it grounded? To test if the positive or negative feed is at fault do the following: 1) Attach a length of wire to the positive terminal on your battery, clamp or cable tie it on if you have to, doesn't have to be thick wire, thin will do whatever you have to hand and make it long enough to reach your multimeter whilst at your inverter. 2) Set your multimeter to read DC voltage, place one end on the positive terminal at the inverter and one on the end of your cable (which is in turn connected to the positive battery post). 3) Switch on the inverter with no load. Take a note of the reading on your multimeter, ideally it needs to be less than 0.4v. 4) Move your length of wire to the negative battery terminal and repeat the test, this time putting your multimeter to the negative terminal on the inverter. Again you'd hope for less than 0.4v. What this is measuring is the voltage loss between the battery and the load and if you have a reading above 0.4v on either positive or negative (or over 0.4v combined) then you have an issue, be it high resistance at a joint or a cable that is not up to the job. Once you have the issue sorted with no load on the inverter you should repeat the above test with a load applied to the inverter to make sure that again you don't suffer a huge loss once the load is applied. Hope this helps  Now: 2010 2.4 TDCi 110 Utility Wagon
Then: 2004 2.5 TD5 90 Hard Top (X-Tech Edition) |
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3rd Mar 2015 4:04pm |
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