 | Home > Maintenance & Modifications > Anyone had a warped manifold on a Td5? |
 
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it bit in and seemed to start well but that damn bolt would not come out of that nut. It felt like I would snap the bolt extractor. Now my only hope is the stud was in the nut and the nut was squeezed in the vice therefore exerting more and uneven pressure than the stud would have in the head. The head is aluminium so wont 'hold on' so tight to the stud?? It held it enough to shear the stud though 
the head? Any tips? wisdom from those who have been in the same situation?
| DG123 Member Since: 29 Aug 2015 Location: North West Posts: 137   
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Mine started whistling about 2 years after remap (2003 D2). I drove it for a couple of days as I had no other options. As far as I remember my local garage (non Land Rover specialist) skimmed the manifold and refitted for about £70. Head went about a year later - again this was skimmed and refitted for a not outrageous cost. I normally like to do my own work on my cars but sometimes it's better value just to farm it out, especially if I'm struggling for time and the weathers iffy as I have to work outside. 2012 110 XS SW Orkney Grey
2003 D2 Td5 Black [SOLD] |
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1st Dec 2015 11:01pm |
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| camelman Member Since: 27 Feb 2013 Location: Peak District Posts: 3396
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yep, mine went twice on tuned TD5, got it skimmed the first time then a replacement 2nd time around.
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1st Dec 2015 11:04pm |
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| Lambley Member Since: 20 Apr 2013 Location: Mid Devon Posts: 1435 
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Danridge - Can't shed any wisdom really other than if you've got a 'friendly' or local garage I'd get them to take a look before you go any further, they might be able to suggest something and it might not cost you too much, otherwise it could lead to having the head re-tapped etc, which isn't a massive job but could be time consuming.
I've still not got round to fitting mine, I have a de-webbed one sitting in the garage ready to be fitted but I've not had call for it yet. Maybe I'd better get my finger out before mine does the same. Best of luck with it, and please report back as to how you get on. |
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1st Dec 2015 11:39pm |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438 
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Cheers guys - I will update when sorted, one way or the other
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2nd Dec 2015 1:14am |
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| danridge Member Since: 28 May 2013 Location: Bath Posts: 438
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Update: I decided to have a go at this myself the next day. Almost predictably the bolt extractor snapped off in hole I drilled in the first stud. Arrggh.
I called it a day at that point, bolted things back together as much as possible and limped her to my local independent Landy garage. He got both sheared studs out and here how... To get the ~3mm tip of the easy out/bolt extractor out he drilled a small hole (~1.5mm) either side of the snapped off tip, applied some heat and managed to tease it out. Then back to the original job, removal of the sheared studs. He drilled them both with ~5mm bit and then hammered a torx bit socket in to the drilled hole really tight. Applied plenty of penetrating fluid and heat, attached a socket wrench to the torx bit socket and was then able to got them to turn. Fair play to him... he said when he dropped it off "I haven't had one beat me in 20 years". Thankfully his record still stands 
My conclusion on using easy out/bolt extractors: If the stud is seized proper then it wont help. You're forcing pressure from the centre of a seized bolt/stud outwards,via the drilled hole, so actually compounding the problem. If its free in the thread but you cant get on to it I'd consider using one again. Neat idea using the torx bit socket for seized bolts/studs. I guess if that didn't work next would be drilled out as much as possible and try hook out the bits of stud left and hope to not damage threads too much. If that failed it would be large drill bit to drill out completely, threads an all and helicoil but I'd have needed the head off for that for a proper job as could get square on to one of the studs. Cost me £240+plus new manifold so completely against the DIY saves money but nothing ventured and all that... and good lessons learnt. Might save me next time
Cheers |
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16th Dec 2015 10:58am |
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| landy andy Member Since: 15 Feb 2009 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 5873 
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When I did mine I drilled the hole in the broken studs and hammered in a Torx bit, but I then wound broken stud IN, removed torx bit, then cleaned thread with tap, before reusing torx bit to then wind the broken stud out.
Andy. |
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16th Dec 2015 2:46pm |
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