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Kevzeboy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Indus Silver
Tranfer Box
I am gonna bite the bullet and change all the seals on my transfer box as it is leaking.

My 61 plate has done 48,000 miles and it feels snatchy when setting off. I have been told that it it the coupling shaft that is worn. (may as well change while the box is off getting resealed.

Couple of questions:

Is it hard job to take the box off and do?

Lloyd Land Rover quoted me 127 plus vat for the kit or all the parts Land Rover have said the job takes. He said the shaft come with lube in now and said something about a syringe of something to go with the kit that was an extra that they don't use? Could this be anti scuff paste like they use on the old Farley OD? (obviously not a mechanically minded parts man).

Ashcroft are doing a shaft set for the TDCI and it it 350 plus the vat. It is machined in such a way that there are holes in it so it can let lube through to the spines.

I like the idea of the ashcroft part, but it is nearly 3 times the price. I don't know how much longer a landy shaft would do with some lube on the splines in comparison to self lubricating ashcroft one?

Is it worth changing the output shaft seal on the gear box while it is split?

If anyone has a step by step guide and some torque settings I would be very grateful.

I know the jerky set off could be the clutch, but I am not going to take the transfer box off and not change the coupling shaft.

How easy is it to do the clutch by the way?

Big Cry

Shouldn't have sold my TD5 with rover drive! Lol
Post #400400 19th Feb 2015 8:29pm
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Lou Sparts



Member Since: 15 Apr 2012
Location: Kent
Posts: 1501

United Kingdom 2005 Defender 90 Td5 XS CSW Zambezi Silver
Have you checked that the breather is not blocked on your transfer box ? As this could cause it to leak as pressure will build up as it warms up. I have had this with a diff on a previous Defender. 2005 Td5 90 XS

Steve
Post #400409 19th Feb 2015 8:40pm
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Kevzeboy



Member Since: 19 Jul 2014
Location: Cumbria
Posts: 87

United Kingdom 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 USW Indus Silver
I have checked the breather and no luck.
Post #400417 19th Feb 2015 8:51pm
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ian series 1



Member Since: 17 Nov 2014
Location: south
Posts: 3127

United Kingdom 2008 Defender 90 Puma 2.4 CSW Bonatti Grey
Hi
It's not a bad to take gear box out, worse part is the transfer box as its heavy, and really badly balanced!
If your using a lift, and gearbox jack, its a doddle, but if your on your driveway laying on your back with a trolley jack its a different story!

I would recommend having another pair of hands at the ready, for the lifting of the T/box.

As you say, either Ashcrofts for the shaft, or a genuine one with all the bits to do the job will set you back around £140
The syringe they supply is a molybendium type grease, Use it all!!! That's why these shafts are failing,

Up to you how far you go replacing other parts, depends what it all looks like on inspection.
Clutches are straight forward, no dramas there, change everything while your there, just make sure you have all the correct parts before starting.

On all the ones I have done, new shaft, new clutch, customer feedback is good, saying it feels much better, and smoother.
Can't remember torque figures off the top of my head, but do have them at work so I will have a look.

Ian 80" 80" 86" 88" 90"

Wanted, Forward Control Anything considered.
Post #400420 19th Feb 2015 8:57pm
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blackwolf



Member Since: 03 Nov 2009
Location: South West England
Posts: 17487

United Kingdom 2007 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 DCPU Stornoway Grey
There are several threads on this subject including photos and instructions (search for "output adaptor shaft" or similar).

It's impossible to say how long a shaft will last. At one extreme I have heard of less than 15k miles from new, mine I serviced when changing the clutch at 150, 000 miles and it was a better fit than the new parts I'd bought just in case. Lubricated on assembly you are unlikely to have trouble with the standard parts but the Ashcroft solution is very tempting and makes sense if you do a high mileage.

A snatch when taking up drive could however come from anywhere in the driveline, so check halfshafts, drive flanges, diffs, and propshafts before dropping the box.
Post #400461 19th Feb 2015 11:08pm
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Caterham



Member Since: 06 Nov 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 6312

England 2011 Defender 110 Puma 2.4 XS CSW Stornoway Grey
is the snatch on take up there pretty much every time or occasional.

I would imagine that if the half shafts for example were worn it would be every time?

Assuming I interpreted what a service manager told me correctly (and it seemed to make sense to me) related to the clutch springs. as is common knowledge these can rattle but it was suggested these can also stick. to my mind that would give a sensation of snatching / possibly similar to what's being discussed here?
Post #400503 20th Feb 2015 9:30am
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walfy



Member Since: 29 Aug 2007
Location: Frome
Posts: 2667

 
blackwolf wrote:
At one extreme I have heard of less than 15k miles from new,


Mine is going in on Mon for this job. I reported a knock from the drivetrain after completing less than 1K miles. after 3 visits to the dealers for this issue, they have admitted there is a fault and it needs a new output shaft. Currently my 110 is sat on 11K miles 110 D250 SE HT
110 USW SOLD
RRE HSE Dynamic Gone, wife killed it
VOLVO XC60 R Dynamic with some toys

Polaris RZR 900XP SOLD
Post #400529 20th Feb 2015 10:50am
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