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martinfiattech



Member Since: 13 Nov 2013
Location: leicester
Posts: 422

England 
Removing a tyre from the wheel rim
Thanks to the ply liners working in the car park at work the other day, I returned to a flat o/s/r tyre.
A very nice new self tapper jammed right in the middle of the tread. 12 mm of tread and it went right between the tread blocks, how`s your luck !!
So on with the spare and home to bed.
The next night at the end of my shift, I put my punctured tyre on the machine and went to work on it. I have boost alloys and conti standard fit AT`s.

I was amazed at the effort required to split the tyre bead from the wheel rim it`s self. Then on to get the tyre off the rim.
Our machine at work can easily cope with 22 inch low profile 30 tyres. But mine had it on the ropes, the air powered tyre hook was beat, so we returned to lots of matts and blocks of wood ( to protect the alloy wheel which survived unmarked ) Very Happy . (more tyre soap / lube was used than in fifty shades of grey !)
After two pry bars and an assistant the tyre came off, it would seem once it was off the well in the wheel is very deep.
This gave the tyre little room to move / flex.
Once the puncture was repaired I placed it on the wheel balancer. Why do l/r put hammer on weights on alloy wheels ?.
I set the balancer to stick on weights, and tried to balance the wheel, 200 grams on one side and 150 on the other ?

I checked the original weights, a total of 70 grams ?

I removed the wheel and refitted back to the balancer just in case it was off centre. I checked to see if the wheel was running true. Yes it`s straight and not buckled ???

So I set the balancer to normal steel wheels, guess what 40 grams one side and 30 grams the other. The same as what originally came off ????
So do l/r balance alloys as steels. ?

Myself don`t understand. I`ve done all different tyres including split rims, but this took the biscuit.

Just wondering if anyone had the same fun and games... Excuse the spelling I`am better with spanners and wires.
Post #398314 12th Feb 2015 10:04pm
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munch90



Member Since: 26 Oct 2013
Location: guildford
Posts: 3558

England 
Trouble is using stick on weight and setting machine to hide weight on the inside , you always need a lot more weight as its not going where it really needs and where it will have max effect

no problem with balencing a alloy in the same way as a steel , but use the proper alloy weights ( wider clip ) and of course you will chip the paint and will use less weight as its closer to outer edge
Post #398319 12th Feb 2015 10:10pm
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ken



Member Since: 18 Aug 2009
Location: Banging Birds with my bitches !!
Posts: 4328

United Kingdom 
Alloy clip weights a the best way for Boost alloys not pretty but functional like the Defender
Post #398355 13th Feb 2015 4:33am
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